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post #1 of 5 Old 02-16-2019, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 61
Turn signals out - wiring schematic and routing diagram?

DL1000 2003. Other than a tuner, stock and unmolested.

The point of my post is that I just got back from a short trip during which I realized my turn signals aren't working. Nothing front/back or left right, and no indicator on the cluster. I've got the Suzuki Service Manual, but for this it seems near useless. No wiring diagram, or routing/connector diagram, and no troubleshooting procedure. So with very little time before I have to leave tonight, I didn't want to strip off all the plastics to try to sort it out on my own. I did check the fuse, and that's good. I pulled the relay block and found not obvious signs or problems, power on the connector as indicated in the service manual, so there is power to the relay (I expect the signals switch to ground). Also didn't seem like a good idea to pull the switch appart with so little time, so other than a bit of research, that's where I stopped. We were supposed to take the bike tonight, but not without signals on these roads...

So, any pointers to good wiring diagrams? I found a DL650 ABS online, which I would think should get me close enough for these circuits. But also routing/connector diagrams would be useful. Baring that, maybe some pointers where the relevant bits are located? I'm thinking the next step is to start at the switch and work outward, but that will be tomorrow.

Back story.

I rode it quite a bit in years past, but that got less and less as my knees deteriorated to the point it was getting problematic. Eventually I stopped riding in late 2015, with both knees replaced summer of 2016. I know for a fact they worked before parking it.

I finally got the bug bad enough to get it back ready for and on the road. So I replaced oil and filter, flushed the hydraulics, drained the tank and flushed the system as best I could without full disassembly, checked filter, new battery, and did a general inspection. I know I checked the brake lights, but don't recall if I checked turn signals at that time. I suspect I didn't and something happened during storage. My first thought was the signal relay, but a sound thumping with a screwdriver didn't produce any results. In Phoenix, and it's garage kept, so I don't think it likely to be corrosion in the switch. So my best guess is still the relay, or maybe something (wire pinched?) when doing the tank R/R. Not sure if that might give someone insight into a likely culprit, but included it just in case.
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post #2 of 5 Old 02-16-2019, 07:56 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Madera, Ca
Posts: 362
I have seen the turn signal switch contacts dry out from sitting unused for a long time. I usually spray some WD-forty or lPS to see if it will free up.

'15 DL650A
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post #3 of 5 Old 02-16-2019, 07:56 PM
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Puget Sound, and Allegheny County (PA)
Posts: 785
I would pull the blinker module [a], then temporarily short together, with a short piece of bare or stripped wire, the two sockets into which the blinker prongs plug. In all likelihood, this will allow your turn signals to shine steadily when the turn switch is engaged. If so, you will know for sure that you need to buy a replacement blinker module.

[a. Sorry, but I forget exactly where that module is. I seem to recall seeing it under the seat, but only dimly. ]
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post #4 of 5 Old 02-17-2019, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 61
I tried WD40 with no effect.

I also tried jumping the relay with no effect. No lights at all.

Which probably points to a problem with the common on the switch, or the switch itself. I'm going to start taking thing apart later today.
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post #5 of 5 Old 02-17-2019, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 61
It was the switch. I couldn't find pictures or description from anyone who had dealt with this, so I'm going to provide a bit of an outline.

All you need is a #2 phillips screw driver, and a small tool to use as an actuator. I used a 1/8" flat blade screw driver. You'll also want some contact cleaner.

1) Remove 2 screws from the bottom of the cluster switch. The back bolt is longer. Then separate the top and bottom clam shell.

2) Remove 2 screws labeled "B". This is the harness strain relief, which can be removed using the tab to the left of the bottom B

3) Remove screws at A, C, and D.
3.1) I seem to recall that D is screwed into the switch body, so it may or may not be required to remove to get the switch out of the lower clam shell, but you will need to remove it eventually anyway. So now or later, your choice.
3.2) Pay special attention to the metal bracket held by screw A. I looks a bit like a conductor, but it's not. It has a tab going over the bottom edge (in the pic) that retains the spring and detent ball. It's not hard to keep in place without the screw because it has a pin it sets on. But if you aren't careful, you can loose that spring. Also note this has a longer screw than the other screw positions.
3.3) Also pay attention to the screw at D. That forms the fulcrum of the switch and has 3 parts. The top washer is visible, and it keys into the switch body to prevent the screw from being worked loose. Below that is the switch lever itself. And below that is a washer with a pin that functions as the bearing for the lever. Just notice how they fit together, and don't lose the bottom washer bit.
4) With the screws removed, you can work the turn signal switch and horn switch out of the lower clam shell and set it aside. Note how the wires are routed, because there are several ways to screw that up trying to put it back together, and doing so could cause more severe problems.
4.1) You don't have to, but I removed that A spring retainer and spring to make sure I didn't accidentally launch them while fiddling around and trying to figure out and test. For mine, the ball remained captured until I disassembled the switch.
5) With the D screw removed, you will be able to remove the lever itself by sliding it outward, then tipping it up so the 2 bottom pins slip through the notches provided for this purpose.
5.1) If you haven't already retrieved that ball from the detent, now is a good time since it's easily pushed out from the inside once the lever is removed.
6) Right below "E" there is a sliding white block, and 3 wires connect to the switch body. This contains the actual conductor that slides back and forth to make up the L and R turn signal circuit. This is where my problem was.

I could jumper the relevant wires and turn the signals on and off at the switch, but sliding the white block didn't do anything. It looks like the switch snaps together, so theoretically could be separated and allow retrieval of the white block, and easy access to clean the contacts which are undoubtedly the problem. But it looks very risky to try to disengage the lock tabs without breaking and ruining the switch, so I stopped there. I then took some CRC and sprayed down in the switch around the white block. NOTE: Put something over the tank to prevent drips since it could potentially damage paint. Once it was wet, I used a small 1/8" flat blade screw driver to slide that block back and forth repeatedly to work the CRC into the contacts.

While doing this and making progress, you can note that the signals will begin working. Back and forth again and again until you are convinced it's clean, or tired enough of doing it to call it anyway. After partial reassembly, I noted that mine were still not 100% without sometimes fooling with it and wiggling to get the right turn signal. So I took it apart and repeated. After that second round, so far, it's working 100%.

Reassembly is straight forward in the reverse. Once you get the lever reinstalled you can reinsert ball, spring, and the retainer at A, just be careful reinstalling it because it can get away if you let the retainer slide up. Also be careful to make sure the wires (mainly headlight) go back in and routed through correctly to avoid pinching.
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