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post #1 of 14 Old 01-24-2019, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
Hmm
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Clutch replacement symptons?

Could anyone tell me what symptoms will show when a person is approaching a clutch rebuild? I have a 2008 Wee with 23K on the odo.

Bill
I been down around Houston Texas where the sun shines most of the time.

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Past - Yamaha 850, Honda Nighthawk 700, Honda GL1200, Yamaha FJ1200, Suzuki Bandit 1200, Honda GL1800
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post #2 of 14 Old 01-24-2019, 08:30 AM
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what are you experiencing now that makes you think you might need a rebuild? I've been told that these clutch plates are going to last a loooooong time, so definitions of "clutch rebuild" will vary person to person. If you are experiencing shaking, chudder, jerky release, bronco takes-off from a stop, from your clutch as the mileage on the ODO increases, I'd advise you email or call Terry at Werks Parts -- he's on this forum as RealShelby. My 08 Vee was at about that mileage and I simply could not stand it any longer. Nothing I did could smooth it out. I talked with and emailed Terry. Best money spent on anything on my bike to have him rework the bearing surfaces, etc... on my clutch basket.
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post #3 of 14 Old 01-24-2019, 09:54 AM
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Needing clutch work at 23k miles would be very unusual. If you do a lot of stop and go riding, you'll need to adjust the play pretty often.

I have 119k miles on my original clutch, and it doesn't noticeably slip.
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post #4 of 14 Old 01-24-2019, 09:59 AM
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I have well over 20,000 miles on my 2012 DL 650. Clutch has never been adjusted since I set the lever freeplay when new.

It is easy to screw up adjusting these clutches, meaning they do not have adequate play in the mechanism. That can burn up clutch frictions.

If you notice clutch slipping a moment when shifting gears, or engine rpm flares up when going wide open throttle that is a sign of clutch issues. Especially in 4th, 5th, and 6th gear.

'12 DL 650 '14 BMW R 1200 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com

Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry [email protected]
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post #5 of 14 Old 01-24-2019, 01:12 PM
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The clutch release mechanism on that model is behind the sprocket cover, easy access. Same as the early SVs. Go to SVRider.com and look for Andy Auger's Clutch Mantra, best write up I've ever seen for the adjustment procedure.

I don't want a pickle, I just want to ride my motorsickle. A. Guthrie.
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post #6 of 14 Old 01-24-2019, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realshelby View Post
I have well over 20,000 miles on my 2012 DL 650. Clutch has never been adjusted since I set the lever freeplay when new.

It is easy to screw up adjusting these clutches, meaning they do not have adequate play in the mechanism. That can burn up clutch frictions.

If you notice clutch slipping a moment when shifting gears, or engine rpm flares up when going wide open throttle that is a sign of clutch issues. Especially in 4th, 5th, and 6th gear.
It's worth noting that the 2012+ 650s use a very different mechanism to disengage the clutch. https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts...586&sch=508028

The previous mechanism is much sloppier and prone to wear.
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post #7 of 14 Old 01-24-2019, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox View Post
It's worth noting that the 2012+ 650s use a very different mechanism to disengage the clutch. https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts...586&sch=508028

The previous mechanism is much sloppier and prone to wear.
True, they are different. So I will tell you that we put 29,000 miles on the 2004 DL 650 and never adjusted the clutch linkage and never had any issue at all with the feel or actuation of the clutch!

'12 DL 650 '14 BMW R 1200 RT

WERKS modified clutch baskets for DL and SV 1000's.
The BEST in chudder control, noise control, and lasting durability! AVAILABLE HERE: www.werksparts.com

Have questions about the clutch in your DL or SV 1000? E-mail Terry [email protected]
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post #8 of 14 Old 01-24-2019, 04:30 PM
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As a long shot, is your clutch cable by any chance starting to unravel at the upper nipple. That will make you think something is up with the clutch. Why do I know? If all is well when you inspect make sure that rotating nipple inserted in the lever is well lubricated!

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post #9 of 14 Old 01-24-2019, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hmm View Post
Could anyone tell me what symptoms will show when a person is approaching a clutch rebuild? I have a 2008 Wee with 23K on the odo.
We might be able to give you actual useful advice if you tell us what makes you think you have issues.

My 2006 DL650 has the original clutch when I stopped riding it with over 125,000 miels.

Issues I had were:

-Broken Clutch Cable

-Arm on adjuster (inside front sprocket cover) came loose when spot weld broke making me think clutch was a problem

-Bent clutch levers from falling over causing various issues.

But never an issue with the clutch itself.

..Tom
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2006 DL650: 202,000 km 125,500 miles, Sold
2012 DL650 139,500+ km, 86,700+ miles. Sold
2015 DL1000 New July 2015 180,000+ km, 112,000 miles.

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post #10 of 14 Old 01-25-2019, 01:49 AM
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Or someone put car oil in the bike ?.

The clutch my my gen 1 DL 650 lasted 80,000k's with horrific abuse, gen 2 130,000k's though I did have to dive in and adjust the clutch free play on that one @~20,000k's.

I'll concede it's not obvious initially, lack of acceleration, particularly lack of punch out of the corners without any other issues is the giveaway.

If you do refresh it, new springs matter even more than new friction plates.

Oh, and it'll be a bit of a bastard in stop-go traffic until everything beds in (About a month). They usually won't change gear while stopped for a 1000k's or so.
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