Clutch push rod seal replacement - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 28 Old 12-02-2018, 01:22 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch push rod seal replacement

Hi all,

Was working on replacing my clutch seal due to oil leakage and also issues with my clutch engagement. Dl1000 05 65k. I noticed a few things on the process and have some questions.

The rubber on the slave is broken which I knew before. Does it call for slave replacement or can I just get the rubber? Also the bolt with the spacer which holds the slave had the seat broken.

I think the stator cover gasket is sticking out a bit where the seal retainer tab stick in. Is that normal?

The seal retainer and the clutch seal was not concentric.

Should I replace the push rod? Looks pitted on the slave side.

Thanks.

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post #2 of 28 Old 01-25-2019, 11:58 PM
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Yes. Replace the shaft it's not expensive. I tried getting by on mine by cleaning it up. It leaked more. Replace the seal also. The corrosion beats up the seal just enough.
If the slave is not leaking then just replace that dust boot.. well I would since your ordering other parts.
* Careful with that slave mounting boss* It can be repaired. But it's a little bit of a pain getting the spacer the correct thickness. You have enough left..just be real careful. Push the piston back in by hand with the reservoir open. Try not to put any excess stress on the boss. That's what I do anyway.
Here's my boss.
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post #3 of 28 Old 01-26-2019, 02:15 AM
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If you plan to keep the bike, new parts all around.

I don't know how you damaged the bolt threads but you need to get that sorted. Otherwise, the slave will not mount square and the push rod will just deform the new seal and result in another oil leak.
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post #4 of 28 Old 01-26-2019, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gopi.sandy View Post

I think the stator cover gasket is sticking out a bit where the seal retainer tab stick in. Is that normal?
Yes that is normal.
Here are some interesting reads, hope they help:
https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a...le-vee2-2.html
https://www.stromtrooper.com/v-strom...-rod-boot.html
https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a...eal-saver.html
https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a...=1531872000000

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Blau1 2004 DL650-sold
Blau2 2014 DL1000A

Last edited by blaustrom; 01-26-2019 at 11:31 AM.
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post #5 of 28 Old 02-09-2019, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cold Neck View Post
Yes. Replace the shaft it's not expensive. I tried getting by on mine by cleaning it up. It leaked more. Replace the seal also. The corrosion beats up the seal just enough.

If the slave is not leaking then just replace that dust boot.. well I would since your ordering other parts.

* Careful with that slave mounting boss* It can be repaired. But it's a little bit of a pain getting the spacer the correct thickness. You have enough left..just be real careful. Push the piston back in by hand with the reservoir open. Try not to put any excess stress on the boss. That's what I do anyway.

Here's my boss.
Well fk, guess where this came from.The inevitable happened.
Need to think how to mess with the boss and get an insert in there. Any tips??

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post #6 of 28 Old 02-09-2019, 09:45 PM
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How much depth is left? Can you use a helicoil? I'd try that if possible. If not, I think you need some welding done.

I am guessing a previous owner inflicted this damage?

DL1000K6 Two wheels good; four wheels bad.
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post #7 of 28 Old 02-09-2019, 11:13 PM
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I am not experienced but this is what people in the know suggest:

https://www.stromtrooper.com/5200745-post5.html

++ TIME-SERT Official Threaded inserts for stripped threads, blown out sparkplugs,

Apparently they have much less tendency to come out, once set. Not sure if you have enough meat left to get one of those in.
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Last edited by blaustrom; 02-09-2019 at 11:17 PM.
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post #8 of 28 Old 02-12-2019, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gopi.sandy View Post
Well fk, guess where this came from.The inevitable happened.
Need to think how to mess with the boss and get an insert in there. Any tips??

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I used a helicoil. I decided against a timesert because of the rough surface of my damaged case. Plus it's a lower torque for the slave, it's a pita to tear the engine out to get it welded then machined and expensive!!
Suzuki left meat behind the boss to drill deeper. I cant remember how much. But it was enough to do the repair with a regular tap as opposed to a blind one. Plenty of depth for the 9mm deep insert.
I felt confident in my drilling of a straight hole because I was cabinetmaker for 15 plus years. I've got a ton of practice, but I was still a little nervous keeping it square.
My helicoil is staked in place (as recommended by them)
You have an advantage over my repair..well maybe. You still have part of the boss keeping the spacer in place and the slave level.

Helicoil says its stronger than original threads
In the pictures you can see how I kept everything square based on the flywheel.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 45253360_1284668728358411_6991649215298404352_n.jpg (54.0 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 45359179_1284668768358407_2141366923080761344_n (1).jpg (73.3 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 45292619_1284258041732813_2025855366792740864_n.jpg (70.8 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 45298678_1284258025066148_4251162353317445632_n.jpg (69.6 KB, 8 views)
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post #9 of 28 Old 02-12-2019, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larolco View Post
How much depth is left? Can you use a helicoil? I'd try that if possible. If not, I think you need some welding done.



I am guessing a previous owner inflicted this damage?
Yeah. But it had been ok for 20k since until I decided the once time to torque it to spec!!
Dont know how much is left but apparently it was enough. I have to take some measurements this weekend.

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post #10 of 28 Old 02-12-2019, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cold Neck View Post
I used a helicoil. I decided against a timesert because of the rough surface of my damaged case. Plus it's a lower torque for the slave, it's a pita to tear the engine out to get it welded then machined and expensive!!

Suzuki left meat behind the boss to drill deeper. I cant remember how much. But it was enough to do the repair with a regular tap as opposed to a blind one. Plenty of depth for the 9mm deep insert.

I felt confident in my drilling of a straight hole because I was cabinetmaker for 15 plus years. I've got a ton of practice, but I was still a little nervous keeping it square.

My helicoil is staked in place (as recommended by them)

You have an advantage over my repair..well maybe. You still have part of the boss keeping the spacer in place and the slave level.



Helicoil says its stronger than original threads

In the pictures you can see how I kept everything square based on the flywheel.
Well that is comforting to know that welding can be avoided. Spoke to some and they said the engine would have to be torn and baking was needed.

I'll measure the depth to see how much it is to begin with. The half boss is a definite pita if I have to drill a bigger hole and keep it straight. I'll have to drill the boss too!!

Is that a Male to female standoff to replace the boss u used?

I have had suggestions to use jb weld/ some epoxy to fill/form the boss all over and then tap it.
I friend of mine(a designer) suggested to use an M6 stud and stick it in the hole without drilling (the part that I am tended about) or tapping and epoxy the whole thing. Then I'll use a nut to retain the slave and never mess with the stud.
The boss helps only if I am to use epoxy to fill. But I have zero experience using it.



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