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post #1 of 34 Old 06-28-2009, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Charging system questions

Troopers,

I recently toasted my battery during the trip back from New England and before I just throw a new battery in I wanted some feedback with regards to what else should be checked. I'm familiar with an automotive alternator system but I have no experience at all with a stator type system.

Did I cause any damage to the stator by asking it to run all the electric demands during this run? (the only extra being run besides the bike was my GPS.)

Am I correct in my assumption that the charging system is OK since I was able to keep moving?

What tests should be performed to measure output?

I'm hitting the manual next to see what it says but wanted to get some of your feedback as well.

Thanks!

Steve
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post #2 of 34 Old 06-28-2009, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by FireDog45 View Post
Troopers,

I recently toasted my battery during the trip back from New England and before I just throw a new battery in I wanted some feedback with regards to what else should be checked. I'm familiar with an automotive alternator system but I have no experience at all with a stator type system.

Did I cause any damage to the stator by asking it to run all the electric demands during this run? (the only extra being run besides the bike was my GPS.)

Am I correct in my assumption that the charging system is OK since I was able to keep moving?

What tests should be performed to measure output?

I'm hitting the manual next to see what it says but wanted to get some of your feedback as well.

Thanks!
Greetings,

Starting simple here... how old was your battery? Perhaps it was just used up. Do you use a trickle charger? Do you ride year round, or does it sit in the cold months? A good charged battery should be giving you 12v+ on your multimeter at idle, and revving the engine to 2,000rpm should generate ~14v or so.

The regulator/rectifier is another point in the charging system to check for continuity. Check as many wires, connections, and fuses as possible.

You should not be causing damage running an auxiliary GPS on a tour, although I may be misinterpreting your question about that...

The bike not dying/continuing to run with a known dead battery is not conclusive that your charging system is functioning correctly.

Standard disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic and I am new to V-Stroms, however my wee is my 3rd modern Suzuki.

Good luck! I recommend a gel battery for long life.

~Sarah
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post #3 of 34 Old 06-28-2009, 05:05 PM
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Battery I believe was only about 3 years old, and yes he keeps it on a trickle charger when not riding.

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post #4 of 34 Old 06-28-2009, 05:26 PM
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Battery I believe was only about 3 years old, and yes he keeps it on a trickle charger when not riding.
See if it will charge off the bike as a first step.

-Tom (DL650AL2) (KA1TOX) (E-I-E-I-O)

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post #5 of 34 Old 06-28-2009, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by smalltownSarah View Post
Greetings,

Starting simple here... how old was your battery? Perhaps it was just used up. Do you use a trickle charger? Do you ride year round, or does it sit in the cold months? A good charged battery should be giving you 12v+ on your multimeter at idle, and revving the engine to 2,000rpm should generate ~14v or so.

The regulator/rectifier is another point in the charging system to check for continuity. Check as many wires, connections, and fuses as possible.

You should not be causing damage running an auxiliary GPS on a tour, although I may be misinterpreting your question about that...

The bike not dying/continuing to run with a known dead battery is not conclusive that your charging system is functioning correctly.

Standard disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic and I am new to V-Stroms, however my wee is my 3rd modern Suzuki.

Good luck! I recommend a gel battery for long life.

~Sarah
The battery is at least 2.5 years old, it was installed by the PO. I do use a battery tender when the bike is expected to sit for more than a couple of weeks. The voltage numbers when running is info I was looking for since that is similar to an alternator type system.

The GPS reference was only to illustrate that I was not asking the electrical system to do any more than necessary when coming home. I have heard of alternators being destroyed when asked to overcome a battery that was not able to take a charge and my concern was that the stator could be damaged in the same way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tmcgee View Post
See if it will charge off the bike as a first step.
It's on the charger as we speak. I'll check it in a couple of hours and see where it's at.

Steve
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Blue 2002 Vee
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post #6 of 34 Old 06-28-2009, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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I just did some testing after charging the battery up and things are pointing towards the regulator. I'm only seeing 12 V at idle and 12.27 V @ 4K rpm. After shutting everything off the voltage stabilized at 12.3 V. I did these readings with nothing extra on. When I hit the high beams the voltage dropped below 12V.

Time for some more reading of the manual. Thanks for the help so far!

Steve
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Blue 2002 Vee
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post #7 of 34 Old 06-28-2009, 10:57 PM
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If you made it home, then why not take it to an Autozone tommorrow and have them test it with their machine ? It's still a 12v battery, for which they usually have a diagnostic machine.

If it's got a bad cell, they should be able to tell you. If it's O.K., then you should be able to eliminate the battery as the source of the problem.

If the battery is O.K., then I would put a multimeter on the terminals of the battery while then engine is running. I think the charging stats for that model are 14+ volts @ idle and 14.9 or so @ 5k rpm.

You might also remove the stator cover to see if anything looks burned--but that still is not conclusive. There are posts on the VSRI forum where the stator had to be remove to be able to see burned areas.

Aside from that it might be the rectifier.

There are a few posts on '03 Vee's burning out their stators on long trips without a great deal of electical add-on's, but yours is an ‘02. Not sure if that is better.

P.S. On my Ranger, when the battery was going bad, the voltage tested low with the engine running, but the problem was not the charging system, it was the battery. Not sure if it would work the same on a bike, but I always like to eliminate the battery as the source of the problem first.

Last edited by XLonDL650; 06-28-2009 at 11:14 PM.
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post #8 of 34 Old 06-29-2009, 12:35 AM
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..., the voltage tested low with the engine running, but the problem was not the charging system, it was the battery. Not sure if it would work the same on a bike, but I always like to eliminate the battery as the source of the problem first.
Good advice in XLon's post; eliminate the battery as a problem source first. There is plenty of cheap Chinese crap on the market - batteries are no exception!

Please post back and tell us how it goes. Glad to hear you're a trickler.

I'm highly skeptical of regulator/rectifiers' reliability - but just tonight my S.O. and I identified a charging issue on his Moto Guzzi as a toasted wire off the stator. Se la vie!

Still wishing you the best of luck,
~Sarah
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post #9 of 34 Old 06-29-2009, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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After testing the stator per the manual, it appears that that is needing replaced. It tested outside the specs by .2 ohms on the high side. The R/R is not showing any numbers when tested but I'm contributing that to operator error right now. My multi meter had a blown fuse in it and I will re-test after replacing that. Not sure if that is what is giving me the zero reading but wanted to eliminate it as a possibility.

The manual is a little fuzzy to me regarding testing the R/R. If anyone has any insight/advice as to the proper procedure to test this, please let me know.

The battery seems OK as it's still holding voltage after some running of the bike earlier tonight but I will check again in the morning after is has sat a few hours.

Steve
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Blue 2002 Vee
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post #10 of 34 Old 06-29-2009, 10:43 AM
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Fried Stator/RR ?

See Reply # 9. Or better yet, read the whole thread.
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