Burnt wire. How? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 21 Old 06-01-2018, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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Burnt wire. How?

I noticed Tuesday night that I had no headlights on my Wee. Looked into it today and found the hot connection coming out of my fuse box towards the light relays was burned to a crisp AFTER the 20A fuse, which never blew. WTF? Isn`t that the whole reason for fusing circuits? What might I have wrong here? I don`t know much about electrical troubleshooting, but I see nothing wrong with the rest of the headlight system (EB relay kit, connections, plug-ins to lamps). I did move the 2A fuse to my voltage gauge away from the headlight fuse, don`t know why I had them right next to each other when there are plenty of empty spots, but still ...

I`m trying to upload a picture directly to the website, but not sure if it will show up- have only done it previously by tying in to PhotoBucket.
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post #2 of 21 Old 06-01-2018, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Hmmm, upload worked but too tiny to see. Here is a blow-up.
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post #3 of 21 Old 06-01-2018, 10:32 PM
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The PC-8 is rated for 20A bust not constant. What are your headlights drawing?

The screw down terminal block can create a high resistance spot if the wire has a bad connection. The resistance while create heat and burn up. Most screw down blocks of that size are only rated for 15A constant.
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post #4 of 21 Old 06-01-2018, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Clayyalc. I have stock headlights which, as I (far from an electrical technician) calculate, total 10A continuous. I only used the 20A fuse because that`s what the guy who makes the kits shows in his sample installations. Maybe because of the "flash to pass" condition, which temporarilly draws double? Any rate, I don`t use that feature save for a few time when I have triggered it inadvertently.

Yeah, the screw connections do seem a bit chintzy to me, though I don`t know what they are rated for. On the other hand, the designer specifically shows my setup on his website and other riders are apparently using the same setup with no problems.

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Originally Posted by Clayyalc View Post
The screw down terminal block can create a high resistance spot if the wire has a bad connection. The resistance while create heat and burn up.
It sounds like you saying that I might not have made a good connection. It`s tough to get much more torque on those tiny little screws, but maybe I did not have enough? Also a little challenging to get all the strands stuffed into the box. Is there some kind of crimp I can put on the wire end and then screw into the fusebox connector?
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post #5 of 21 Old 06-02-2018, 01:04 AM
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Quote:
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It sounds like you saying that I might not have made a good connection. It`s tough to get much more torque on those tiny little screws, but maybe I did not have enough? Also a little challenging to get all the strands stuffed into the box. Is there some kind of crimp I can put on the wire end and then screw into the fusebox connector?
Wire ferrules work well to get a good contact.

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post #6 of 21 Old 06-02-2018, 04:59 AM Thread Starter
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Whatever the cure, I think you`re right about the bad connection being the root cause. I ran out of time yesterday before I could test for shorts downstream, but I`ll do that over the weekend to be sure. Watched a YouTube video about the ferrules that you suggest and they look like a good idea. Alternatively, I wonder if tinning the ends of the wire might be a good measure? Curious as to how other people have run headlights through a PC-8 and how it has been doing for them.
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post #7 of 21 Old 06-02-2018, 09:01 AM
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I've trimmed a large wire, 12ga to remove a few strands and then tinned the end, soldered it, to fit in a connection.
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Last edited by notacop; 06-02-2018 at 06:17 PM.
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post #8 of 21 Old 06-02-2018, 09:21 AM
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Tinning (soldering) the ends of wires is considered a bad practice for screw connections. The reason is that the tin creeps over time when under pressure, so while it will work great initially the resistance will increase over time as the connection loosens. Use bare copper.
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post #9 of 21 Old 06-02-2018, 09:23 AM
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High resistance and high current don't go together well.

Fuse won't open if current is lower than fuse rating. 20A seems pretty huge for that small terminal block though. Cut it off and use another spot.

If you had a IR camera and saw how hot it gets you really could have known.

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Last edited by D.T.; 06-02-2018 at 09:27 AM.
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post #10 of 21 Old 06-02-2018, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayyalc View Post
Wire ferrules work well to get a good contact.
That's one of the advantages of the PC8 over the fuse box I used on our 650's is that you can use wire ferrules. I had to use crush on wire loops thingy's (technical term) that the mount screw pass through. I put on a little dielectric grease to assist with oxidation prevention too.



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