Rear axle nut galled and slipped off - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 14 Old 05-01-2018, 06:33 AM Thread Starter
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Rear axle nut galled and slipped off

The rear axle nut popped off last night while I was torquing it up after adjusting the chain. Nearly at 72 lbs and bang off it went. Surprised the heck out of me. New axle, washer, and nut now on order. I think some anti seize and less torque is in order from now on. Lesson learned.


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post #2 of 14 Old 05-01-2018, 06:45 AM
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Per Greywolf: Apply anti-seize to the threads and torque to 58 ft-lb (due to the lubrication effects of the anti-seize)
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post #3 of 14 Old 05-01-2018, 08:15 AM
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Are they making things cheaper nowadays? I've never had this happen in 42 yrs of riding. Chain adjustments and tire changes too numerous to count. In the old days didn't even use a torque wrench, just "tight as heck".
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post #4 of 14 Old 05-01-2018, 08:37 AM
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Make sure you get the newer non castellated lock nut!! It has a lot more thread area and will be less likely to gall. OEM standard on the newer 650.

Check e-bay for a used axle.

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post #5 of 14 Old 05-01-2018, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaustrom View Post
Make sure you get the newer non castellated lock nut!! It has a lot more thread area and will be less likely to gall. OEM standard on the newer 650.



Check e-bay for a used axle.


Will do. That cotter pin on the nut probably saved my keester the other day doing 70 per... Iíll check ebay thanks.


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post #6 of 14 Old 05-01-2018, 10:29 AM
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Blau, why would you buy a used axle when you can easily buy a new one that hasnt been torqued?

Rail, '05 DL650. 13 years old, how many times do you think that axle nut has been torqued? Nothing's forever, and metal fatigue does happen. Earlier in the year I had a long conversation with the Suzuki factory service rep. The factory shop manual shows the non-castellated nut to replaced every time it's moved. Lawyer/liability thing. He recommends using the factory torque setting with a small amount of bearing grease on the threads and not reducing the torque setting at all. At $25 per axle nut, I will not be replacing mine every time I adjust the chain. But I will be replacing it when I feel the need, as in major services and tire changes--depending on the condition of the axle nut and axle shaft threads.
Basically, Suzuki is viewing the axle nut as an expendable wear item.
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post #7 of 14 Old 05-01-2018, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAZ4ME View Post
... The factory shop manual shows the non-castellated nut to replaced every time it's moved. Lawyer/liability thing. He recommends using the factory torque setting with a small amount of bearing grease on the threads and not reducing the torque setting at all. At $25 per axle nut, I will not be replacing mine every time I adjust the chain. But I will be replacing it when I feel the need, as in major services and tire changes--depending on the condition of the axle nut and axle shaft threads.
Basically, Suzuki is viewing the axle nut as an expendable wear item.
I think it's because of the self-locking metal strip in there which probably can weaken with repeated cycling. There's probably some number of safe "cycles", but how would you ever keep track of that, so it gets a "replace every time" label. They recommend the same with the rear suspension bolts. While I've never replaced an axle nut, I did go ahead and put in new bolts when I replaced the Gixxus shock since it was such a small part of the overall cost.

-Gary
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post #8 of 14 Old 05-01-2018, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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New axle on order.. with a few spare nuts..

Thanks all for the advice. Some of us noobies rely on the information here. Always very helpful. Thanks again.


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post #9 of 14 Old 05-01-2018, 02:59 PM
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I think MAZ called it right in post #6. Oldest I've had was 10 yrs, 86000 miles. The threads were starting to look a bit flattened, may have failed before long. I guess the best idea is, like any other part, inspect it carefully each time, and replace if it's questionable.

So the Suzuki rep says use bearing grease? Someone with some knowledge of the subject please explain the difference between that and anti-sieze.

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post #10 of 14 Old 05-01-2018, 04:03 PM
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Antiseize is basically an oil with powdered aluminum or copper--soft metals which serve to prevent the oil from running, and the alum or copper act as a sort of bearing surface between internal and external threads. It also serves to prevent corrosion between threads. 2 different metals in an acidic environment leads to electrolysis, and a sort of "slow-motion welding" between threads. Grease is just a heavy lubricant that resists running.
In the past, I would use the regular aluminum antiseize--primarily on exhaust studs, bolts, and nuts. About 15 years ago I switched to the copper antiseize. Even though most spark plug manufacturers caution against the use of antiseize on their plugs( can cause a problem with heat transfer and interfere with the plug's ground circuit) many still use it. The aluminum type would turn to concrete, makeit difficult to remove plugs that had been left in aluminum heads for far too long an interval. The copper type stays wet for seemingly forever. The copper type is also referred to as "Brake Lubricant", and works well on brake shoe contact areas of the brake backing plate, brake caliper sliding pins, and the steel brake pad point of contact with the caliper. Permatex is the brand I primarily use.
On motorcycles it works especially well on exhaust studs, exhaust clamps, anywhere heat and/or environment can lead to corrosion. Applying it during assembly or reassembly in might take but a few seconds, but can easily save you from anger, frustration, and added expense during a later disassembly.

Last edited by MAZ4ME; 05-01-2018 at 06:06 PM.
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