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post #1 of 20 Old 06-13-2009, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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Valve adjustment nightmare!

Hey all,

I just got finished adjusting the intake and exhaust valves on the front cylinder (rear cylinder valves all in spec) and reinstalling everything on my k6 wee. I then proceeded to fire it up and finish refilling the radiator. After about a min of running it started making a tapping noise so I hit the kill switch. After taking the valve cover off I discovered all six of the intake journal holder bolts had snapped! Thankfully I don't believe any damage was done to the cam or head. I followed all torque specs as noted in the manual: 10 N-m or 7.0 in-lbs.

Does anyone have a clue what could have went wrong? Should these bolts be replaced after dis assembly?

Thanks for your help.
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post #2 of 20 Old 06-13-2009, 05:40 PM
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10 N-m, 7.0 lb-ft or 84 lb-in is a very light setting. What size torque wrench did you use? A larger torque wrench is inaccurate at light settings. A 200lb-in torque wrench is about the biggest one you want to use for such a job. Did you turn the engine over manually a few turns before putting the covers back on and cranking it?

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

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post #3 of 20 Old 06-13-2009, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
10 N-m, 7.0 lb-ft or 84 lb-in is a very light setting. What size torque wrench did you use? A larger torque wrench is inaccurate at light settings. A 200lb-in torque wrench is about the biggest one you want to use for such a job. Did you turn the engine over manually a few turns before putting the covers back on and cranking it?
Yeah I didn't trust the torque wrench I had because it was larger so I borrowed my father in laws smaller wrench. I think it maxed at 23 M-n.

Yes I did turn it over several times to make sure everything moved freely then rechecked the valves to make sure I had placed the correct shims.

Everything looked great. Started right up and ran fine. Never have I had this happen. I just hope I can easy out the remainder of the bolts.
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post #4 of 20 Old 06-13-2009, 06:01 PM
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To have snapped all the bolts on the cam journal of the cylinder who's valves you adjusted makes me think that they were subject to an unusual amount of pressure.

If so, then the next question is, what mistake could be made to cause this pressure ? Surely the piston couldn't have struck the valve with the cam lobe pushing it open, could it ?

Last edited by XLonDL650; 06-13-2009 at 06:04 PM.
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post #5 of 20 Old 06-13-2009, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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To have snapped all the bolts on the cam journal of the cylinder who's valves you adjusted makes me think that they were subject to an unusual amount of pressure.

If so, then the next question is, what mistake could be made to cause this pressure ? Surely the piston couldn't have struck the valve with the cam lobe pushing it open, could it ?
The timing was spot on. I don' think the tension adjuster could have malfunctioned and made the chain tighter than it should could it? I'll have to check that.
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post #6 of 20 Old 06-13-2009, 07:14 PM
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Hindsight is 20/20, but did your turn the engine over a couple of cycles with a breaker bar before you started it up ?
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post #7 of 20 Old 06-13-2009, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Hindsight is 20/20, but did your turn the engine over a couple of cycles with a breaker bar before you started it up ?
Yes I turned it over several times then rechecked the valves (to make sure I did the right math. :rolleyes Everything moved freely and the valves checked toward the middle of spec. When I hit the starter she fired right up and purred like always. It ran for several minutes before it started tapping at which point I shut it down.

I'm wondering if the torque specs I went off of are correct: 10 N-m or 7.0 lb-ft for the camshaft journal holder bolts and cam chain tension adjuster mounting bolts and 23 N-m or 16.5 lb-ft for the cam chain tension adjuster cap bolt (the 12mm bolt that holds the spring in the tensioner.)

hmmm....I'm stumped on this one. I'll tear into it tomorrow and see what's what.

Thanks for any and all advice!
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post #8 of 20 Old 06-13-2009, 11:34 PM
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A common cause of this is that there is oil in the bottom of the bolt hole, this creates an hydraulic lock so instad of the bolt tightening it strips the threads.
Clean all of the oil from the holes.
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post #9 of 20 Old 06-14-2009, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that tip. Not sure how much oil was in the holes but I'm guessing it doesn't take much. I guess a shot of compressed air and a rag should take care of the oil....now to get the bolts out.
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post #10 of 20 Old 06-14-2009, 11:54 AM
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I can't see hydraulic lock allowing bolts to be seated but causing them to break later. The usual result is the bolts resist seating and they break or strip when more pressure is applied to seat them. Oil can be the cause in another way. The torque specs are for a dry connection. If there is oil on the bolt or in the hole, the lubricated spec applies. A lubricated fastener should only be torqued to 80% of the dry spec.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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