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post #1 of 58 Old 03-10-2018, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Chinese Chain Luber - Review

a.k.a, '‘ Motorcycle Chain Lubricator Oiler Maintenance Set’

Where I got it: AliExress.com

How Long to Receive Order: 10 Days to arrive from date of order.

Price: $17.96 + $.80 paypal fee = $18. 76 (Google ‘ Motorcycle Chain Lubricator Oiler Maintenance Set’ and you may find it cheaper)

How it Works: The oiler is based on the old-style trigger dispensed oil cans, except it uses a cable and lever to work the actuator in the can and dispense oil directly on the chain. Pump the lever to apply the oil with the chain turning, then take it for a ride to work the oil around the chain.
Applying 1.jpg

China Post: Here is the package it came in along with a U-Clamp you can use to mount the oil can around a round bar. I did not need this since I used an already existing bolt on the inside of my luggage rack. Used one of the leftover 10mm nuts as a lock nut on the clamp provided to mount the applicator spout to my swingarm.
China Post w U-Clamp.jpg

Mounting:

I mounted the cable lever to my crash bar with piece of tire inner tube between the clamp and crash bar to avoid scratching. Both the cable and the lever hug the bike nicely and do not get in my way.
Lever Mount 1.jpg

Here's a shot of the can you fill with oil mounted to the inside of my luggage rack.
Can On.jpg

Here's a shot of the actuator that is inside the can. There is some assembly required when you first receive the kit. A small ball bearing fits in the bottom of a sleeve with a spring on top of it. Don't lose the ball bearing that goes in the bottom of the outer sleeve! This assembly slides over the top of a tube permanently mounted underneath the can lid. Then you thread the cable through the top lid of the can, and down through an eyelet on the sleeve assembly. Take up the slack to make sure there is spring loaded pressure, and thread the bottom of the cable through a cable anchor which has a small screw to secure it to the cable which rests underside of the eyelet. Be careful not to to fray the cable when sticking the end through the tiny hole in the cable anchor, or it can be difficult to get through. Once you have filled the can with oil, you will need to pump the lever to get air worked out and oil worked thorough the tubing and down to the tip. A warning says do not test with water. I presume this might rust inside of can ? Note: There were no instructions that came with the kit.
Actuator 2.jpg
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Last edited by XLonDL650; 03-10-2018 at 10:28 PM.
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post #2 of 58 Old 03-10-2018, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Chinese Chain Luber - Review - Part 2

Here's a couple pics of how I had to mount the applicator spout to the underside of the swingarm:
Swingarm Mount 1.jpg

Swingarm Mount 2.jpg

The mount held up well on my 40 mile test ride. Rode over manhole covers and potholes to test it and it did not loosen up. When you think about it, in order for those threaded posts to loosen up, the 10mm nuts would have to get tighter. If it ever does loosen up, I would go to the hardware store and get some proper lock washers and/or nuts. But so far, it seems solid.

Here's what the chain looked like after a 40 mi. ride. I used Pennzoil 10w-40. Not sure if it circulates completely over the outside of the side plates after dropping oil down the middle of the chain rollers, but it does appear to get worked over the critical o-rings and joints where the links are pressed together. What do you think ?
Wet Chain Rear View 1.jpg

Wet Chain Rear View 2.jpg

I couldn't get a good pic of the side of the chain. Not sure, but I might need to hit the side plates with some chain lube from time to time.

Wet Chain Side.jpg

I’m not sure what Torturo or Loobman fans would think of this but,

1)You don’t have to worry about improperly adjusting the flow rate, because oil is only applied when you pump the lever. As mentioned, this oiler is based on the old trigger style oil cans, except the actuator is moved with a cable and lever.

2)Since the oil tip(spout) doest not come in direct contact with anything, it should not wear down or break off.

3) Since oil is only applied when you pump the lever, and only to the chain itself, it does not seem to soak the rear wheel, but you do need to work the lever carefully. My chain was rather dry after coming out of winter storage, so I pulled the lever a total of maybe 12 ? times; about 6 before I left for the ride and a few times on the road when I would pull over to see how things were holding up. Note: Oil did not drip out of the tip to make a mess on the floor unless you were pumping the handle.

I prefer to apply the oil with my bike on the centerstand, and the rear wheel turning so I can make sure the oil is dripping right onto the chain. You might need to twist the metal nozzle inside of the clear tubing to make sure it is dripping on the chain. Do not pull the lever too hard or the oil might squirt over the top of the chain. Slow, steady pull. Then take it for a ride.

However:

I’m not as sure at this point about the application when riding the bike, particularly in windy conditions, which might be a concern for riders not having a centerstand. I want to see the lube go right on the chain.


Might need to spray some chain lube on the outside plates from time to time, because I am not sure that those areas get coverage well when dripping oil down the cener of the chain, but the areas where the links mate together certainly do, which is critical.

Like all of these chain lubers, it provides a way to use less expensive lubricants in liquid form, rather than using sprays.

For me, it is a keeper. However, I might try something better than 10w-40. Not sure, but it might be too sticky and harbor dirt and grit, and I would rather have something that flings off dirt and grit better. I will still clean my chain with kerosene from time to time. I want to see how much more mileage I can get out of this OEM 35,499mi chain which still is only stretched to the middle marks on the axle.

The seller claimed they use these all over ‘the country’, which I presume means China.

Hope this helps.
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Last edited by XLonDL650; 03-11-2018 at 03:05 PM.
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post #3 of 58 Old 03-10-2018, 10:59 PM
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Great write up!

Question, does it make sense to have the oil squirt onto the rear sprocket just prior to where the chain and sprocket make contact? I was reading a thread recently and I think that's where the more expensive oilers were suggesting the oil placement was optimal?
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post #4 of 58 Old 03-10-2018, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdrew View Post
Great write up!

Question, does it make sense to have the oil squirt onto the rear sprocket just prior to where the chain and sprocket make contact? I was reading a thread recently and I think that's where the more expensive oilers were suggesting the oil placement was optimal?
It might be possible to move that spout down towards that area, but you would probably waste a bit of oil on the ground as the force built from each pump of the lever to shoot it over on the sprocket.

The way it is now, I could see oil build up around the edge of the sprocket just above the teeth just from catching it from the chain.
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post #5 of 58 Old 03-11-2018, 12:48 AM
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Good to know, I like what you're doing!
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post #6 of 58 Old 03-11-2018, 12:53 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gdrew View Post
Good to know, I like what you're doing!
My goal now is to find something better than 10w40 to use as lube.

Engine oil bonds with dirt to create a gritty paste that I can hear when turning the wheel. After I was through testing, I cleaned the chain off with Kerosene. I'm going to try chainsaw oil next. It is inexpensive and hopefully will fling off the chain at the right rate to help clean it. I want something inexpensive, sold through major retail chains, yet is effective.
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post #7 of 58 Old 03-11-2018, 03:04 AM
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Bar oil (chainsaw) comes in winter (thin) and summer (thick) formulas. They might both be worth trying. I use 90w gear oil with success but always wanted to try a summer bar and gear oil mixed 50/50 for giggles.

Last edited by gdrew; 03-11-2018 at 12:10 PM.
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post #8 of 58 Old 03-11-2018, 10:59 AM
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I like that, but someone I think on this forum posted about placing the drip tube right up by the front sprocket and said that it worked well without the fling, but can't find that post.
might be worth a try.
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post #9 of 58 Old 03-11-2018, 11:36 AM
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I have found ATF works best in my scottoiler,

chain saw lubricant imho is too heavy viscosity, it is designed for different duty, purpose of bar oil is to lubricate the guide bar primarily and only secondarily, the sprocket

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post #10 of 58 Old 03-11-2018, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XLonDL650 View Post
My goal now is to find something better than 10w40 to use as lube.

Engine oil bonds with dirt to create a gritty paste that I can hear when turning the wheel. After I was through testing, I cleaned the chain off with Kerosene. I'm going to try chainsaw oil next. It is inexpensive and hopefully will fling off the chain at the right rate to help clean it. I want something inexpensive, sold through major retail chains, yet is effective.
Nah it self cleans better than any other lube, all I ever do on occasion is wipe my chain down with a clean or oily rag. WD40 isn't a proper chain lubricant, odds are it is dissolving/cleaning any lube from where it needs to stay. I recommend at minimum the Dupont chain saver lube, that is damn good stuff and should yield the results you're looking for.

I know this system is totally manual, and perhaps that is why it won't help self clean the chain and there is minimal fling off? A constant oiler at a very slow rate is the best overall solution IMHO, with zero fling there is zero clean. I agree that chainsaw oil is likely too thick, perhaps some marine oil or 2 stroke oil might be worth trying first?

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Last edited by Big B; 03-11-2018 at 12:56 PM.
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