Clutch cable replacement advice needed - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 10 Old 05-17-2009, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
DTP
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Clutch cable replacement advice needed

Short story... I need to drive three hours to fix my bike this Saturday. My clutch cable broke 150 miles from home on the other side of a 9000-ft elevation mountain pass hiway.

Long story is here...
https://www.stromtrooper.com/showthread.php?t=39709

SOOO, what advice can you gurus give me, more specifically...

1) What tools do I NEED to have with me that I may not think of taking?

2) Is a replacement cable really only about $16? That's what the parts fiche at Bike Bandit says.

3) Is the cable something a dealer typically has in-stock or should I try and get it online so I KNOW it will be in my hands before I leave Friday night? Anything else I need to buy? I am going to try and get my hands on a service manual, but I'm not sure I can before I leave Friday evening.

4) Any "gotchas" that I should be aware of? Special hints for making the job smoother and easier? Do I need to take the cowling off? If you can't tell, I've never done this before... lol.

Thanks for any help you can give. Hopefully it will be a fun way to spend my 40th birthday and not turn into a disaster.

K7 Wee
92 DR350S
07 TT-R125LE (son's)
07 Shadow VLX (sold)

"The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." - Theodore Roosevelt

Last edited by DTP; 05-17-2009 at 10:07 PM.
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post #2 of 10 Old 05-18-2009, 10:40 AM
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I'd make a wise crack about having a hydraulic clutch on a real bike, but I suppose that would be inappropriate and would probably cause the clutch cables on my other bikes to break.

2007 DL1000 - Givi Bags and Top Case - Madstad bracket with stock shield - Zumo 550 - Murphs brace - H&B center stand - Sargent seat - Switched relay electrical harness - Power Commander III USB - Highway pegs - Driver backrest
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post #3 of 10 Old 05-18-2009, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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lol poser

I found a couple of good write-ups on VSRI. Looks much easier than I thought it would be.

I read one write-up (only one) that said they lubed the heck out of the cable before they put it in??? I thought these were self-lubing cables and didn't need that sort of thing? Or do you self-lube it upon install and then forget about it?

K7 Wee
92 DR350S
07 TT-R125LE (son's)
07 Shadow VLX (sold)

"The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." - Theodore Roosevelt
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post #4 of 10 Old 05-19-2009, 01:06 AM
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Not sure I ever heard of a self lubing cable. AFAIK all cables, clutch or throttle, need regular lubrication.

DL1000K8

So what is it, am I a smart*** or a dumb***? Maybe I'm just an ***hole.
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post #5 of 10 Old 05-19-2009, 02:16 AM
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I thought the strom cables were teflon lined and didn't require lubrication.


SS

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post #6 of 10 Old 05-20-2009, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverstrom View Post
I thought the strom cables were teflon lined and didn't require lubrication.


SS
That's my understanding too. I was under the impression that lubing your cables actually shortens their life.

K7 Wee
92 DR350S
07 TT-R125LE (son's)
07 Shadow VLX (sold)

"The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." - Theodore Roosevelt
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post #7 of 10 Old 05-24-2009, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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I got the new cable in. Was MUCH easier than I anticipated. Zip-tied the new cable to the clutch end of the old one and pulled it through. I did have to loosen the cable guide directly under the gas tank, but other than that it was painless. Got the thing hooked-up, handle end first... was able to do it on the clutch end without having to take off the whole assembly that the cable attatches to which most write-ups said I would need to do. All told, took only about 45 minutes (would have been shorter but had to put the handguard back on too).

Thanks to all those who offered to lend a hand.

Guy at the local dealership was warning me to make sure I had the tools and stuff needed to remove the tank, etc. Heh, I'll go back and tell him just how easy it was without having to do that.

K7 Wee
92 DR350S
07 TT-R125LE (son's)
07 Shadow VLX (sold)

"The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." - Theodore Roosevelt
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post #8 of 10 Old 05-24-2009, 03:13 PM
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rode home

you could have just rode home , its not to hard to shift without the cluch , unless you had to go through alot of traffic lights

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post #9 of 10 Old 05-24-2009, 03:17 PM
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ooooops should have read the full story

i understand now why you didnt

swann strom
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post #10 of 10 Old 05-25-2009, 11:31 AM
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ONE question remains unanswered!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DTP View Post
... SOOO, what advice can you gurus give me, more specifically...

1) What tools do I NEED to have with me that I may not think of taking?

2) ...
There is one important tool that Mrs. Suzuki left out of our tool kits.

To remove the front wheel, you need an Allen key 12 mm in diameter. If you do not have one with you, you can cobble one up by extracting two 12 mm nuts and a bolt they fit, then turning the nuts together, but that is a poor substitute for the proper tool.

Keith

Sequel: I was 500 miles from home, with 42000 miles on the odometer, and my clutch cable was, I thought, on its very last legs. I minimized use of the clutch and carefully shifted without the clutch, probably squeezing the lever no more than 30 times on the ride home.

I did not take the risk of breaking the cable while investigating or trying to adjust it.

I ordered a new clutch cable, then investigated. Yes, some strands were broken, so the new cable was needed, but in fact the cable was way out of adjustment. Perhaps the adjuster and its keeper became loose when I parked with the left side a tad too close to the pavement.

I would have had a less stressful ride home if I had investigated and adjusted. Foo.

K
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