tire balance - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 22 Old 08-18-2017, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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tire balance

The bike is a 2012 DL650 which I bought April. I just spooned on a new Shinko rear tire. Sidewall was a little bit tougher than I expected, any way when I went to balance it I had to use 2 ounces (55 grams) seemed like a lot. I did balance with the sprocket mounted. Is this what ya'alls do? I've been away from chain drive bikes for a long time and just doing a sanity check.
Oh yeah which weights are recommended, stick on or rim attach. I have stick on for now but also have rim grippers I could use as well. Thoughts?
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post #2 of 22 Old 08-18-2017, 12:08 PM
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I would highly recommend not having the sprocket installed when balancing. There are rubber cushions in the hub and movement that just shouldn't be there when balancing. Two ounces? Not too much, but be SURE you have the tire properly seated on the beads. Look around the edges and make sure one area doesn't seem to be higher than others. If you have some way of spinning the tire make sure the tread area has near zero wobble up and down.

Sometimes balancing is balancing the rim more than the tire.

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post #3 of 22 Old 08-18-2017, 12:18 PM
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Two ounces is indeed a lot more weight than usual on a tubeless tire.

No, you should not balance with the sprocket and carrier mounted. Without the tightened axle, the sprocket carrier will be loose and will cock to one side. That may explain your results. They're very close to the center, so the sprocket and carrier won't make much, if any difference to the wheel balance.

I'd check again without the sprocket and carrier.

While you're there, you might also check with a piece of wire to see if there's dirt or whatever inside one of the wheel "spokes". They're hollow, so it is remotely possible for stuff to get in there.


If you wanted to be really thorough, you could remove the tire and see how balanced the bare wheel is and where the true heavy spot is.

I've found that on vintage bikes with tubeless wheels, the true heavy spot is often not where the valve stem is, so I mark the true heavy spot and then mount tires with the dot in that position (and sooner or later, some squeaker at a gas station will spot my "mistake" and cry out with glee...).

On most modern bikes, like the Stroms, you can pretty much count on the heavy spot being at the valve stem. It's definitely worth checking at some point to make sure this is true for your bike. But that can certainly wait until the next tire change.

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post #4 of 22 Old 08-18-2017, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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The balancer I use has cones which snug up on both sides of the wheel, this holds the sprocket assembly tight to the wheel. Good point about the hollow wheels, I'll check.
The heavy spot was about 4" from the valve stem.
I'll also check the bead seating.
Thanks for the input
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post #5 of 22 Old 08-18-2017, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwringer View Post
Without the tightened axle, the sprocket carrier will be loose and will cock to one side.
I could be wrong, but I think this would point to worn cush drive rubbers.
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post #6 of 22 Old 08-19-2017, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox View Post
I could be wrong, but I think this would point to worn cush drive rubbers.
Even with tight rubbers (did that just sound sorta... wrong to anyone else?) the bearing spacer won't be tight up against the bearings.

The effect on balancing? I dunno. Maybe nil, maybe something. Best to just remove it from the equation.

Or, as OP did, you could use some sort of cone arrangement that keeps everything pushed together. That should work fine.
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1983 Suzuki GS850G, Cosmic Blue
2005 KLR685, Aztec Red - Turd II.2, the ReReTurdening
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post #7 of 22 Old 09-26-2017, 08:32 PM
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Is it always necessary to balance the tires? I just installed my first replacement rear tire yesterday and didn't do any balancing. I've ridden about 10 miles, but nothing over 40mph.

One tutorial I read on RevZilla said "author 1 and I both have the same opinions on how to balance tires - we don't."



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post #8 of 22 Old 09-26-2017, 10:12 PM
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I can feel a noticeable vibration difference between being static balanced and no balancing at all. Unbalanced wheels/tires cause extra wear on parts so no reason not too. Especially when it's cheap to buy the tools and weights to DIY at home.

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post #9 of 22 Old 09-26-2017, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwringer View Post

I've found that on vintage bikes with tubeless wheels, the true heavy spot is often not where the valve stem is, so I mark the true heavy spot and then mount tires with the dot in that position (and sooner or later, some squeaker at a gas station will spot my "mistake" and cry out with glee...).
Pardon my ignorance, but I've never mounted any kind of tire except on a bicycle. Is there a dot on the tire at the light spot to be matched up with the heavy spot on the rim?

-Gary
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post #10 of 22 Old 09-27-2017, 12:34 AM
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Whomever doesn't balance their tires will be up for quite a surprise eventually. I had an FJ 1200 Yamaha for a few years and didn't ride overly fast or hard. Never felt comfortable on the bike. One day I let her rip and the front wheel really started bouncing at 140mph. Seemed like it would never slow down. I immediately had it balanced. You should too.
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