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post #1 of 15 Old 04-06-2009, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
 
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Chain maintenance

I just bought a used 2006 DL-1000 and I think the chain may be too loose. I know nothing about how to clean a chain, oil a chain, adjust a chain, or know if a chain neds to be replaced. Does anyone have any documentation on chain maintenance that they would be willing to share.

I plan to get a service manual soon, but with an $80 price tag I am going to have to depend on the kindness of strangers for now.

Thanks,

Arkie
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post #2 of 15 Old 04-06-2009, 10:20 PM
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Chains are something that has a lot of confusion. Everybody seems to have thier way of maintaining them. The "O" ring chains really shouldn't need too much maintnance since they are sealed. My personal feeling is that most (including me) over tighten the chain, and cause undue wear. So........Clean it, some use WD-40 as a cleaner, works well as a cleaner, but not much else. Get a brush for cleaning chains, and scrub it. Then lube it with a good chain lub. I over lube, and then wipe off the excess. The chain should have some play in it. Remember it tightens and loosens as the swingarm pivots, so you don't want it over tight when at the farthest travel. I can't remember exactly how the book says to do it.
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post #3 of 15 Old 04-06-2009, 11:55 PM
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post #4 of 15 Old 04-07-2009, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldmanb777 View Post
Chains are something that has a lot of confusion.
chain maintenance is really a misnomer...... maybe it should be called sprocket maintenance, cause when you ignore cleaning & oiling the chain, its the sprockets that take the beating



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post #5 of 15 Old 04-07-2009, 10:22 AM
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I'm With Arkie

I'm in the same boat. I'm coming off of an old shaft driven Honda Shadow and bought an '04 1000 and am trying to figure out this whole chain thing too. I was able to get help from a motorcycle guru on how to clean and tighten the chain but should I be maintaining the sprockets too? Bike didn't come with an owner's manual but it has since been ordered.
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post #6 of 15 Old 04-07-2009, 10:57 AM
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Arkie; The 2004 dl650 owner's manual says to adjust the chain to allow 20-30 mm (.78-1.2 in.) of travel in the chain at the mid point between sprockets on the lower run of chain. (that means from the highest point you can cause it to go with with one finger to the lowest point. Notice that there are marks on the swing arm to assist you to keep the sprockets aligned. Retorque for the axel nut is listed at 72.5 foot pounds, but stromtroopers generally agree that 66 fp is enough. I can't see why it would be different for a dl1000. To check the chain you need a lot of slack in it, so do that before you set it to speck. Just feel along the chain for any point where the chain won't bend easily and then straighten out on it's own. This is a sign of an individual bearing failing. This will among other things ruin the sprockets. With regard to the sprockets, they should all look the same shape on both sides of their points (Symetrical and not hooked). If there is 15000 or so on the bike a check should be made of the front sprocket to see it has not become all gummed up with old lube and road dirt.

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post #7 of 15 Old 04-07-2009, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by honest bob View Post
Arkie; The 2004 dl650 owner's manual says to adjust the chain to allow 20-30 mm (.78-1.2 in.) of travel in the chain at the mid point between sprockets on the lower run of chain. (that means from the highest point you can cause it to go with with one finger to the lowest point. Notice that there are marks on the swing arm to assist you to keep the sprockets aligned. Retorque for the axel nut is listed at 72.5 foot pounds, but stromtroopers generally agree that 66 fp is enough. I can't see why it would be different for a dl1000. To check the chain you need a lot of slack in it, so do that before you set it to speck. Just feel along the chain for any point where the chain won't bend easily and then straighten out on it's own. This is a sign of an individual bearing failing. This will among other things ruin the sprockets. With regard to the sprockets, they should all look the same shape on both sides of their points (Symetrical and not hooked). If there is 15000 or so on the bike a check should be made of the front sprocket to see it has not become all gummed up with old lube and road dirt.
+1 and should probably note that adjustment is made on the sidestand, not on a centerstand(if you have one). If you are unsure.. error on the loose side!!

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post #8 of 15 Old 04-07-2009, 11:57 AM
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This is a good read on chains,
http://www.motorcycle.com/products/a...ains-3524.html
oops I am sorry looks like they lost the link, Never mind..
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post #9 of 15 Old 04-07-2009, 04:04 PM
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Recommended Lube

After experimenting with various oils and lube on my KLR chain, which never produced ideal results, I found this article:
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motor...chain-lube.htm
It is a bit of a challenge to get up here in Canada, but should be available just about anywhere in the US. On an O-Ring chain as stated above, the lube you put on the chain prevents corrosion and lubricates the sprocket/chain contact points, the internals are pre-lubricated and sealed. All other oil products I tried attracted too much dust from the gravel roads and trails creating a grinding paste that ground down my front sprocket.

Time will tell with the new chain and sprocket set how well the Dupont Teflon works. Most notable for me now is after dirty rides there is very little dust or dirt on my chain anymore.

Other riders have reported similar positive experience with wax type lubes.

Hope that helps,
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post #10 of 15 Old 04-08-2009, 12:45 AM
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I'd suggest getting a Grunge brush set for cleaning the chain. The chain cleaner that's included works well, other than that I've used Motol chain cleaner, and it also works great. As for lube if you're doing mostly street riding, I prefer chain wax. (It's actually an spray.) I think it works incredibly well, it does however tend to collect dirt and sand in an off road environment. It's one of, if not the cleanest chain lube out there. I've also used the Honda chain lube in the red can. There was a test done a while back and it was the highest rated.
Other than that follow the directions on the back of the can. Some chain lubes need to be wiped off after setting up for 10 or 15 mins. If you don't wipe it down it makes one heck of a mess, but there are really no other ill effects.
Most people say to lube the chain every 600 miles, but I like to do mine after every ride. I clean only when there seems to be a good bit of build up on the chain it's self. I also carry a small can of chain lube on the bike for those long/multi day rides.
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