ignition/key sticking problem - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 13 Old 05-19-2017, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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ignition/key sticking problem

I recently bought a 2014 Vstrom 650. I noticed in the past few weeks that when I turn the key it often sticks and wont turn on. Has anyone seen this problem or knows a solution to fix it?
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post #2 of 13 Old 05-19-2017, 09:11 PM
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It may sound simple but are you aware that to lock or unlock the ignition you need to push the key downwards. Otherwise try a little WD 40 in the key slot and on the pin which locks the steering.

2010 Weestrom; 2017 Kawasaki Versys-X300; 1988 Suzuki GSXR1100
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post #3 of 13 Old 05-19-2017, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brockie View Post
It may sound simple but are you aware that to lock or unlock the ignition you need to push the key downwards. Otherwise try a little WD 40 in the key slot and on the pin which locks the steering.
I've heard in the past you shouldn't use liquid lubricants in key/lock mechanisms, as it can accumulate and allow dirt to accumulate and jam things up. Instead, I was told dry lubricant is a better choice.

If it's a good day to wash the bike, it's a better day to ride the bike.
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post #4 of 13 Old 05-19-2017, 09:41 PM
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I've a tube of graphite powder that I have often used on padlocks etc. which sit out in the weather but recently read here that some do not recommend it for ignition locks. The reason given was that the graphite might allow electrical tracking between terminals. I have no experience of that myself.

2010 Weestrom; 2017 Kawasaki Versys-X300; 1988 Suzuki GSXR1100
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post #5 of 13 Old 05-19-2017, 09:58 PM
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Graphite worked well on both my bikes. The 2010 Wee has 120k km on it and lots of key use ( previous owner was a daily commuter )
Graphite really made a difference.
Biggest annoyance is is keeping track of the damn little tube


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post #6 of 13 Old 05-19-2017, 10:34 PM
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Some people swear by WD40 and some swear at it. Same deal for graphite. I've known two locksmiths from where I used to work. One was in each camp.
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Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

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post #7 of 13 Old 05-19-2017, 10:39 PM
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Just ordered a variety from Amazon - see what works since mine is getting sticky again

American grease stick graphite lubricant 1.13 oz/32g
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC
$6.02
Condition: New


2 of Panef Corp. L-300 Powdered Graphite Lubricant - Net Wt .21 oz
Sold by: Great Household
$4.69
Condition: New


B'laster 8-GS Industrial Graphite Dry Lubricant - 5.5-Ounces
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC
$7.13


Ontario Canada rider staying in Cairns Australian Feb to May & Aug-Oct each year
Canada 2018 CB500x >2009 CBF1000 sold • 10 Wee ABS sold • 09 Burgman Exec sold • 10 NT700v sold
Australia> 04 KLR650 • 93 ST1100 sold •
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post #8 of 13 Old 05-20-2017, 06:20 AM
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Depending on the lock design and the electrical contacts, graphite could conduct electricity and create problems. A motorcycle ignition is a bit simpler than a car and the electric side is probably sealed from the elements better than a car. Just saying that it is something to consider with graphite.
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post #9 of 13 Old 05-20-2017, 08:39 AM
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Which ever you choose I'd tend to apply it modestly. My bikes are always garaged and I've never had this issue but if a problem exists I'd guess it is more likely related to the steering lock pin.


2010 Weestrom; 2017 Kawasaki Versys-X300; 1988 Suzuki GSXR1100
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post #10 of 13 Old 05-20-2017, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brockie View Post
I've a tube of graphite powder that I have often used on padlocks etc. which sit out in the weather but recently read here that some do not recommend it for ignition locks. The reason given was that the graphite might allow electrical tracking between terminals. I have no experience of that myself.
I'm pretty sure that there is no direct path between the tumbler barrel and any electricity. If you purposely tried to bridge (turn on) the circuit with liquid solder or whatever could you?

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