(New & Improved) Stator Install - Page 6 - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
V-Strom Service and Maintenance Questions and Discussions Share your service and maintenance information-questions. Please include your year and model in the text of your post.

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post #51 of 69 Old 02-13-2017, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Schtromtrooper1 View Post
So...I tested my cover temperature after a 30min highway jaunt at 70-75mph and 5k rpm most of the way and it came out to 162 degrees with an outside temp of 70 degrees, using a currently calibrated IR thermometer. I will warm it up at idle this morning and get an idle temp.
I did a long run (over an hour [email protected] with my new mosfet R/R) and the cap temp was staying right around 155-160, ambient air was around 62-63F. When I got home I let it idle in the driveway till the fan kicked on and it rose to 190.2F. Not sure what it all means but one conclusion is that idling after a run is probably brutal on the coils. If you've followed my posts then you know that there is probably not a lot of conclusions we can draw from these numbers but let's see what we find. The cap temp is so sensitive to ambient air temp and road speed any conclusion regarding stator temps is probably lost in the signal without lots of data and complex statistical calcs.

Quote:
And, FWIW I appreciate your experiment and look forward to the results. No one knows everything, including engineers, but we can learn through experimentation.
Thanks. I appreciate your public expression of your appreciation. BTW, I am an engineer too and I am not anti-theory or math but know that the theory and practice (i.e. experiments) have to be integrated to make things work. Nothing ever works quite like it says in the design specs. I am just having fun biding my time until riding season. I think the temp probe is a nifty tool (esp. for $8.). It might come in handy for another mod I am thinking about, running hot air from behind the radiator into my handle bars for a non-electric hand grip heater. It would be dead simple, just a tube and a control valve. Now that I've installed and moved my R/R to my rear quarter panel I am going to measure the temps of the air flow where the OEM R/R is currently mounted and use that area to scoop up some hot air to pipe into my handle bars.

Pink Floyd: And did you exchange a walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Current: 2014 V-Strom DL650 ABS Red
Next Up: ?
Past: Suzuki: DL650AK7, GS400; Honda: CB125, Express 49cc

Last edited by dmfdmf; 02-13-2017 at 11:16 AM.
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post #52 of 69 Old 02-14-2017, 03:36 AM
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I'll have to get a reading just sitting in the driveway without a long run first to see if there is a heat seat condition induced by the highway runs. Maybe not, but I am curious. What is the stock location for the voltage reg on a Wee? My K2 Vee has it mounted in the left side cover.

I am an aircraft mechanic by trade so we deal with engineering documents all the time. Itbis exactly as you say: everything adds up on paper, but not necessarily in the real world. It takes a combination of the engineering knowledge in the office and communication from those in the field to make for a "Well oiled machine."

I would be interested to see how your heat ducting project works out too. I know the old Volkswagens had heat shields around the engine woth ducts that directed the air to the passenger compartment. Sounds like you are considering a similar approach. I can't remember the name of the product, but there is a company out there that makes a handlebar mounted duct or sleeve to keep your hands out of the cold airflow. A former coworker had them on his Wee and said they did an excellent job. I imagine ducting warm air would make it really toasty.
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post #53 of 69 Old 02-14-2017, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schtromtrooper1 View Post
What is the stock location for the voltage reg on a Wee?
Stock location, though not the stock R/R.


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Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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post #54 of 69 Old 02-14-2017, 10:49 AM
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Thanks GW. I can see why it would be helpful to relocate the reg to a cooler location. I won't why they didn't mount it under the side cover like on the Vee?
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post #55 of 69 Old 02-15-2017, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schtromtrooper1 View Post
I'll have to get a reading just sitting in the driveway without a long run first to see if there is a heat seat condition induced by the highway runs. Maybe not, but I am curious. What is the stock location for the voltage reg on a Wee? My K2 Vee has it mounted in the left side cover.
So on the Vee the R/R is behind the left rear quarter panel where I just installed mine?

I was out riding today with ambient temps in the low 60's and I was getting similar results as before of 155F on the cap. I rode across the SF bay on a bridge and it got noticeably chilly. I didn't have an actual air temp gauge but based on the old feet/hand gauge I'd guess it was around 58F ambient on the bridge and I got 145F on the cap, same as before for that ambient temp. There was a bit of traffic but I was able to hold speed at 75MPH-ish. What I realized is that the temp gauge is really measuring ambient temps at constant road speed, it just needs a conversion constant. That conversion constant will change before and after the mods if the thermal compound is having any effect so it may provide a way to prove this mod. The key is to run the before/after tests at the same road speed which will keep the air flow and heat conduction the same. When I did my runs the cap temp was very stable at a fixed speed of 75MPH and only rose when I slowed down or fell when I hit a slug of cold air. As soon as I got through the cool air the temp went right back to where it was before. Its a pretty stable result as long as speed is constant. Moreover, I don't think RPMs are very important because the coils saturate at 27AMPs above around 3.5K RPM so its heat load is (essentially) a constant over 3.5K RPMs. The two uncontrollable factors are ambient temps and relative humidity (amount of moisture in the air which would increase the conduction of heat by the air). The former we can actually measure. The latter is not a problem in California but may be a problem in Florida but as long as we know what it is and run tests at the same or similar operating conditions the results should be valid.

I would do this test but unfortunately I have already modified my stator (some would say "molested") so I can't do a before/after. If you are still interested in proceeding with this I can explain in more detail what we are after and the concepts behind it (too much detail for a post so maybe do that offline). I can also send you thermal compound and I may have two shanked bolts left (but not the third one that you would need). You'd have to get a crankcase gasket (mine was $10 or so) and you'd need an ambient air temp gauge in addition to the cap temp gauge you already ordered. Maybe your smart phone can display air temp. A gopro or rigged camera to record data would make data collection a snap. This weekend I am going to Rev2 of my mod based on what I've learned from discussions here (will post details later) so wait for that so we do it the same but you could start collecting "before" data any time if you get an air temp gauge. Those have to be pretty cheap too.

Quote:
I would be interested to see how your heat ducting project works out too. I know the old Volkswagens had heat shields around the engine with ducts that directed the air to the passenger compartment. Sounds like you are considering a similar approach.
Yes, I remember that now that you mentioned it. I had a buddy in high school who had a VW bug and he hated that heater. On cold mornings (cold by California standards anyway) since the engine was air cooled and the heater was dependent on the engine getting warmed up it didn't put out any heat till he got to school. He used to drive to school on cold mornings wearing his ski gear. I really haven't decided to go this route yet. I've got to look at the costs and electrical load of the standard heated grips. I also want to add some extra running lights for visibility and I am concerned about over taxing the electrical system but heated grips would really extend my riding day (earlier mornings) and year (earlier in the Spring and later into the Fall). Cold hands are deal killer for me when I ride.

Pink Floyd: And did you exchange a walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Current: 2014 V-Strom DL650 ABS Red
Next Up: ?
Past: Suzuki: DL650AK7, GS400; Honda: CB125, Express 49cc
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post #56 of 69 Old 02-15-2017, 11:05 AM
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Hey DMF, I got the gauge in the mail yesterday and will install and get a warmed up idle temp today. I'm curious if I can use my air temp sensor from my other bike to measure ambient air temp. I'll have to look into that. I will be sure to include ambient air temps and humidity (definitely a factor in Florida) with my readings.
Your relocated voltage regulator is actually in the stock location for a Vee! I never understood why so many bike models have the voltage regulator located so close to the engine.
As for your heated grip concerns, I share them. On my other bike, a 2006 Triumph Daytona 675 I had installed a set of heated grip elements and I believe it was the cause of my stator failure on that bike. I had a FH012 regulator on that bike as well. The stator output on thar bike is 400W (I think your K7 is the same, or maybe more since you have the SV stator). I had changed the engine on that bike at 36k miles and while the stator was functional, it did have a blackened wire or two when I pulled the engine. The replacement engine had 8k miles on it when installed (based solely on the word of the seller) and went out 10k miles later. I liked my heated grips when used on conjunction with some decent gloves, but I won't do it again on a bike without a high output stator.
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post #57 of 69 Old 02-15-2017, 08:14 PM
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Dmf, just wanted to let you know I got caught up in another project today and just now finished, if you can even call it that. Hopefully I'll have time to get the temp gauge installed tomorrow.
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post #58 of 69 Old 02-15-2017, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Schtromtrooper1 View Post
Dmf, just wanted to let you know I got caught up in another project today and just now finished, if you can even call it that. Hopefully I'll have time to get the temp gauge installed tomorrow.
No rush, take your time, have fun. The install only took me about 10 minutes.

Pink Floyd: And did you exchange a walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?
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Current: 2014 V-Strom DL650 ABS Red
Next Up: ?
Past: Suzuki: DL650AK7, GS400; Honda: CB125, Express 49cc
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post #59 of 69 Old 02-16-2017, 12:47 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Schtromtrooper1 View Post
Your relocated voltage regulator is actually in the stock location for a Vee! I never understood why so many bike models have the voltage regulator located so close to the engine.
I think its for more air flow. The early SV's (2002?) had R/R overheat problems but I don't know if on that bike the R/R was behind the radiator or behind the left quarter panel. I don't know for sure but I suspect the original design was for the R/R to be in that left quarter panel -- the bolt holes in the sub-frame lined right up, the stator wires were the perfect length, battery is right there, etc. It always seemed to me the location as shown in GW's photo was a bit of a kludge (not GW's work!, looks clean). That location looks like an engineering hack to me, a late design change to move the R/R and get it more air with a minimum of design changes. I like mine in where it is now.

Pink Floyd: And did you exchange a walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Current: 2014 V-Strom DL650 ABS Red
Next Up: ?
Past: Suzuki: DL650AK7, GS400; Honda: CB125, Express 49cc
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post #60 of 69 Old 02-16-2017, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by dmfdmf View Post
I did a long run (over an hour [email protected] with my new mosfet R/R) and the cap temp was staying right around 155-160, ambient air was around 62-63F. When I got home I let it idle in the driveway till the fan kicked on and it rose to 190.2F. Not sure what it all means but one conclusion is that idling after a run is probably brutal on the coils. If you've followed my posts then you know that there is probably not a lot of conclusions we can draw from these numbers but let's see what we find. The cap temp is so sensitive to ambient air temp and road speed any conclusion regarding stator temps is probably lost in the signal without lots of data and complex statistical calcs.



Thanks. I appreciate your public expression of your appreciation. BTW, I am an engineer too and I am not anti-theory or math but know that the theory and practice (i.e. experiments) have to be integrated to make things work. Nothing ever works quite like it says in the design specs. I am just having fun biding my time until riding season. I think the temp probe is a nifty tool (esp. for $8.). It might come in handy for another mod I am thinking about, running hot air from behind the radiator into my handle bars for a non-electric hand grip heater. It would be dead simple, just a tube and a control valve. Now that I've installed and moved my R/R to my rear quarter panel I am going to measure the temps of the air flow where the OEM R/R is currently mounted and use that area to scoop up some hot air to pipe into my handle bars.
I had visions of hooking a quick disconnect to the cooling system and diverting the warm liquid through a giant silly straw wrapped into a vest we have so much free heat available. Ok one more-a small alternator run off exhaust pressure to add wattage to the system . Sorry bikes apart running heated gear and the 3CS getting bored in cold rainy NJ.
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