K5 Wee Headlights - none of the usual suspects - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 8 Old 05-07-2015, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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K5 Wee Headlights - none of the usual suspects

No headlights on my 05 Wee. It progressed/digressed like this:

1. A few weeks ago starting became intermittent, but the headlights were good.
2. I removed and cleaned the starter switch (emery board on contacts).
3. Starting is consistent now, but headlights stay off.
4. I disconnected and cleaned the black connector behind the radiator. Afterwards, I noticed the lights flicker once while I was pressing on the starter button. It hasn't happened again, and the lights still don't come on.
5. I checked the big connector under the rubber cover on the left side of the fairing. No discoloration or signs of excessive heat.

Any other ideas for an immediate fix (I know about the EB light relay)? Jumper the starter/lights wires going to the starter switch? Conduct a special religious ceremony making an offering to the Norwegian God of Stroms?
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post #2 of 8 Old 05-07-2015, 11:28 PM
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Most likely the starter switch contacts aren't making contact. If they don't touch, it doesn't matter how clean they are.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general...nicknames.html

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post #3 of 8 Old 05-08-2015, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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Hmmmm. I'll quadruple-check it tomorrow. I even tried holding the wire with the rectangle of 4 contacts in my hand, and pressing the starter switch against it to see if the lights would come on. They didn't. Maybe it's an assembly problem and I didn't have them aligned exactly.

My Wee had no issues for 71k miles, but as I look at the flimsy switch design, I'm surprised it stayed trouble-free that long. It seems it would be easy for the contacts to be misaligned.
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post #4 of 8 Old 05-08-2015, 03:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgifford View Post
Hmmmm. I'll quadruple-check it tomorrow. I even tried holding the wire with the rectangle of 4 contacts in my hand, and pressing the starter switch against it to see if the lights would come on. They didn't. Maybe it's an assembly problem and I didn't have them aligned exactly.

My Wee had no issues for 71k miles, but as I look at the flimsy switch design, I'm surprised it stayed trouble-free that long. It seems it would be easy for the contacts to be misaligned.
You can get new starter solenoids on eBay for quite reasonable prices. ($10'ish).

Pete
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post #5 of 8 Old 05-08-2015, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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You can get new starter solenoids on eBay for quite reasonable prices. ($10'ish).

Pete
I don't have an issue starting. Just the lights.

Even though I've always done all my own maintenance and repairs, I'm a noob at electrical matters. I rechecked the starter switch. I manually held the starter switch against the contacts for the lights. I could see and feel that there was physical contact. No lights. Did the same for the starter contacts and it fired right up.

It seems to me there's a problem with the tiny board that has the contacts, or with the wiring that goes to the starter switch. Before I start replacing things, I'm going to get a voltmeter and do some testing. Anyone know how much voltage should be in the headlight wires connecting to the starter switch? 12v? Should I be testing for volts, or something else?
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post #6 of 8 Old 05-08-2015, 07:58 PM
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Look for a yellow wire with a white stripe going to the right handlebar switch. There is also an orange wire next to it or an orange wire with red stripe depending on which side of the connector you're looking at. If you connect the Y/W wire to the orange or O/R wire, you bypass the switch. If you connect them and you have no lights, the problem is somewhere else. If that gets your lights back, the start switch is the problem.

You should always have 12V or so between any Y/W wire and ground or any mainly orange wire and ground. Ground is a black wire with a white stripe but you can use the frame for testing only.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informa...-you-have.html
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post #7 of 8 Old 05-10-2015, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Making progress.

Jumping the wires to the starter switch made no difference. After rechecking fuses and light bulbs, I engaged in some scientific 'wire-jiggling'. Moving the starter-switch wires that go over the top of the radiator to the black connector behind the radiator I was able to get the lights to come on.

It appears I have a problem with the wires from the switch down to the connector, with the connector itself, or with both. I already checked, cleaned and reconnected the black connector behind the radiator, but I must have missed something. Next step is to pull the right side fairing cover and carefully check that connector again, and the wires as well.

And while I'm at it, a headlight relay too. Is Eastern Beaver the only one with a relay for the Wee?
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post #8 of 8 Old 05-23-2015, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Update:

- Starter switch/cable: after cleaning and reassembling the switch, I found the switch to still be a little flaky. I could make lights flicker by wiggling the starter button. I replaced it with a used switch/cable from eBay, and it now seems to be solid (my switch had 71k miles on it).

- Big rubber covered connector in the top-left corner of the fairing: moving this would cause the high beams to go off/on. Since I already had the Eastern Beaver relay, I decided to install the relay and then come back to this.

- Eastern Beaver relay: I got the one that connects directly to the battery. It was straightforward to install, I just went slow and carefully to ensure everything was zip-tied and/or taped securely. It eliminated the high beam problem from bullet #2, and made my lights noticeably brighter. Yess!! All is now good.
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