Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: SW Washington State
Glad the FI issue isn't a problem anymore.
On the secondaries I am assuming by bolts you mean the the two small screws securing the throttle plates to the shaft. If these are damaged to the point where another screwdriver won't fit or turn them you might be out of luck unless you are willing to dismantle the throttle bodies, as the usual techniques for stripped screwheads would be problematic in the confined space and the fact using an impact driver in there would likely damage the shafts or more.
Fasteners on bikes are different animals than on cars or trucks. Most manufacturers of bikes are using nuts, bolts, and screws out of an alloy that seems to consist of compressed oatmeal and Elmer's glue. They are soft but ironically the screws and bolts are harder than the nut or mounting point they screw into.
For screws on a bike it is imperative to use a driver that fits exactly in the screw head, there are three basic phillips head sizes and a tool box should have each because a screw will allow at least two or even three of them to "fit" but only one is just right. And then of course it must be perdenicular to the screwhead before any force is applied or because it is soft, it will strip the head.
Many bolts on a bike, which are steel, are screwing into an aluminum engine component, and because aluminum is softer than steel the bolt can pull the threads right out of the case. And then there is if a bolt is threaded slighlty off center, it's threads are stronger than the case threads or the captured nuts threads and will cut them or pull them out.
Many people who are accomplished mechanics on cars and trucks can find that they run into problems with bikes because they are used to tightening things until they are "tight". At which point the threads pull out or bolt head breaks off on a bike. It is the steel v. aluminum on bikes instead of the common steel v. steel on cages.
Torque values found in the service or owners manuals on bikes aren't just an engineers way to fill some pages, a torque wrench and those values must be used to prevent fastener or component damage. Extremely expensive repairs can reuslt from not using a torque wrench, like the snapping of a cam cap in half or pulling the threads out of a head pointing point.
In the tech sessions I've had for over 60 different bikes owners of the KLR 650, most were shocked that the torque levels required to seal their engine cases was so low (69 inch/pounds). A torque wrench or two in the appropriate ranges is a must for one working on bikes.
The above is probably not a lot of help for you in the short term but maybe a novice bike mechanic can pick up a tip or two.