In and out of sync. - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 03-10-2005, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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In and out of sync.

Has anyone succeeded in keeping their strom in sync for longer than 5 MINUTES! Whether I do it or the shop does it, once around the block and it's back to square one. Valve clearances are correct and their are no vacuum or exhaust leaks anywhere I can find. On my homemade Uni-syn ( plastic pipe and tranny fluid) one cylinder always registers 3 to 4 inches of tranny fluid above the other cylinder, yet when I turn the adjustment screw to even the levels up they only stay in sync for several minutes and then they're off again by the same amount. I adjust it at idle and 2,500rpm, even put a dab of locktite on the screw so she won't move. At the times that it did stay in sync for a while, I could definitely tell the difference in vibration, particularly when accelerating or using a lot of throttle going up a long hill. The engine felt electric, almost as if the engine got smoother the deeper I went into the throttle. It really has a way of making me wish it would run this way all of the time. My old dual-weber bug was never this hard to get evened up.

Dan
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post #2 of 11 Old 03-11-2005, 10:03 PM
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Great Question..

I have the homemade syncer too, works great. A few months back, I synced it felt GREAT.. But it didnt seem to stay there long.

I too have a buzz on Accel around 5 or 6 grand.... I know it's the TB sync...

This weekend I will tackle it again.. And I will attempt to adjust the TPS as well..

04 DL-650
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post #3 of 11 Old 03-12-2005, 12:16 PM
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I have the same problem. I also use a homemade yardstick + tranny fluid.
I will adjust it slowly & carefully to get the levels as near to equal as poss. I blip the throttle between each small adjustment. I get it all done, am happy them open & close the throttle a few times & one of the darned levels starts to climb a bit :x

Maybe this small difference is insignificant as we are using a fluid with a density of around 0.8 to 1.0 as compared to a density of over 13 for mercury. This will make it VERY sensitive indeed & the difference we are seeing on our homemade device is negligible when compared to a mercury one.

I would like mine to stay put after I've set it tho

I do seal the adjuster screw thread after I have finished.

Recent DL1000 owner, now a '06 Burgman 400 owner.
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post #4 of 11 Old 03-14-2005, 12:16 AM
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I synched today It was out by about 6"... Bike feels good, But I still feel it's a little off.. A little buzzy

I have NOT yet adjusted the TPS.. For some reason I am leary of it because I guess I dont understand the entire process.. I dont want to dive in and screw it up if I dont understand it... Know what I mean?


Hey, take a read on this http://vstrom.info/fom-serve/cache/337.html ... Read the whole thing it's very informative... Make sure you read the last paragraph about DL-650..

I may try this as to get pressure data from both cylinders..

BUT I also want to get a larger understanding of adjusting the TPS.. see if that smoothes it out..

ROCK ON, It's still a great bike I love it..
I just need to get the delicate systems back in sync..

I'll get it there, I suspect the problem is the Nut behind the wrench.

04 DL-650
Have a good time, ALL the time !
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post #5 of 11 Old 03-14-2005, 09:00 AM
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Chris

I did the mod in the link you gave. I put a connecting vac hose between the PAIR & the IAPS vac lines.

You have to pinch shut this connecting hose when you do a TBS.

It's still winter here, so I haven't been able to try the bike on the road since doing it.

If I wasn't so damn fussy, I would just ride the darn bike & enjoy it instead of trying to get perfection :lol: :lol:

Recent DL1000 owner, now a '06 Burgman 400 owner.
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post #6 of 11 Old 03-14-2005, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Chris. Very interesting info. I always wondered why that that little vacuum device only went to the front cylinder and what would happen if it were hooked up to both. My 650 runs smooth as silk, no hesitation,surging,or stalling. just the on and off vibration. The symptoms of a misadjusted TPS on a car anyway are hard-starting,hesitation and rough idle. Thankfully I don't have any of these problems so I will leave it alone for now. The balance or amount of air being drawn into both cylinders is dependant on engine temp. I wonder if varying valve gaps between the two cylinders associated with constantly changing operating temps changes the balance enough to be felt, temperature basicly changing the sync constantly. If running a hose between the two cylinders would help this condition it's definitely worth doing. Probably the only thing I miss about my old Sportster was the single carb and split manifold feeding both cylinders, very simple to tune. Dan
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post #7 of 11 Old 03-15-2005, 08:08 AM
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Luckyoldgit,

I keep wondering why you have to pinch that extra line when you sync ?

Are you unable to get it synced if not pinched ?

I know what you mean about just riding and not looking for perfection..

But when a bike runs like a swiss watch... it just feels So Good.


Like how trailbuster described it earlier
"I could definitely tell the difference in vibration, particularly when accelerating or using a lot of throttle going up a long hill. The engine felt electric, almost as if the engine got smoother the deeper I went into the throttle"


I just love that electric feeling... I gotta have it... know what I mean

04 DL-650
Have a good time, ALL the time !
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post #8 of 11 Old 03-15-2005, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris
Luckyoldgit,

I keep wondering why you have to pinch that extra line when you sync ?

Are you unable to get it synced if not pinched ?
Chris

If you do the mod, the IAPS & the PAIR vac lines are connected with the two T pieces & the extra vac line. You now have a permanent connection between the front & rear cylinder's vac take-off's, where none existed before. The PAIR takes its vac from the rear cyl & the IAPS takes its vac from the front cyl (or vice versa).

You now can't measure the vacs of the individual cylinders, hence you have to pinch off the new piece you put in. This separates the vacs again. You do your TBS, then remove the clamp.

I think all the above is correct.

Recent DL1000 owner, now a '06 Burgman 400 owner.
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post #9 of 11 Old 03-15-2005, 09:00 AM
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Old GIT

Thanks for the clarification


I think my situation is different as I have a DL 650.. 48 State Model

So.. This model does not have a PAIR.. only the California (I Think)


It looks like I would need to create a line that attaches both cylinders then put a T in the middle and connest it to the line that runs to the Vac Damper and up to the IAPS......

Anyone, Please correct me if I am wrong...~~

You know I love technology but sometimes I think this new fangled stuff can be a real pain in the Arse... Is it really necesary to put 12 or 15 sensors on a motorcycle ....

Whats Next ECM on my Weed Wacker?

04 DL-650
Have a good time, ALL the time !
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post #10 of 11 Old 03-15-2005, 11:10 AM
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I must give all credit to "Stromrider 1583" from Port Moody, BC for the info I gave above.

He posted it on the V-Strom Forum in Nov/03.

Recent DL1000 owner, now a '06 Burgman 400 owner.
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