REVISIT False Neutrals - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 20 Old 01-22-2005, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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REVISIT False Neutrals

ok gang I'm starting to get a tad annoyed.
dl650 with just under 900 miles. changed oil twice: once at 100 mi, then at 700, using Rotella and Suzi filters.
I have encountered the upshifting false neutral four times now, always on upshift, and always between 4-5 or 5-6.
The tranny, unless I'm dreaming, is getting more 'clatter' in shifting now than when it was new. I thought they got slicker, not un-slick the more you road. On those false neutrals, she does NOT appreciate being put in gear... you have to coast to a stop or you're going to get a whole lot of grinding and unhappiness.

What needs adjusting? Has anyone had a shop address this issue?

Z

If evolution is valid, why do I still bite my tongue occasionally?
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post #2 of 20 Old 01-23-2005, 11:11 AM
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I used 10-40wt this past summer and my DL shifted pretty bad, went to 30wt problem solved. Then winter hits temps 20s to 30s and she turns over a bit too slow on cold starts, so back to the 10-40wt and it shifts good. Now the temps here in Spokane have jumped to the 40s and 50s and it is shifting bad again. If I lived in Texas where the temps are moderate I would stick with straight 30wt year round. I've never owned a bike that shifted better when I used a light oil in warm weather.

Dan
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post #3 of 20 Old 01-23-2005, 02:15 PM
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Switching to full synthetic oil did the trick for me. I can really feel a difference in the smoothness of shifts.
 
post #4 of 20 Old 01-23-2005, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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i don't get the oil wt idea at all. 10/40 is heavier than 30.... except for about 2 minutes

I may have a real problem: these symptoms aren't going to change with oil

z

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post #5 of 20 Old 01-23-2005, 05:07 PM
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Multigrade oils lose thickness faster than straight wt oils, in other words if you use a 10-30wt for 500mi then test the SUS- viscosity you'll find it has dropped to perhaps a 10-20wt. of course all oils tend to drop viscosity with normal use but multigrades drop a bit more. This is a paragraph from my old 1972 Peterson repair manual but I'm sure it would still apply today. Besides what have you got to lose but a few bucks for oil, worth a try, all I can say is it worked for me. I do still get some false neutrals when I wear my thick-toed boots versus tennis shoes.

Dan
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post #6 of 20 Old 01-23-2005, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailbuster30
Multigrade oils lose thickness faster than straight wt oils, in other words if you use a 10-30wt for 500mi then test the SUS- viscosity you'll find it has dropped to perhaps a 10-20wt. of course all oils tend to drop viscosity with normal use but multigrades drop a bit more. This is a paragraph from my old 1972 Peterson repair manual but I'm sure it would still apply today. Besides what have you got to lose but a few bucks for oil, worth a try, all I can say is it worked for me. I do still get some false neutrals when I wear my thick-toed boots versus tennis shoes.

Dan
Yes, tis true multigrade oils do lose their viscosity over time, but if you're having a 10W-40 drop to a 10W-30 in 500 miles then it's time to change oils. Try Mobil 1 10W-40 or 20W-50 motorcycle oil......not cheap but works very well IMO.
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post #7 of 20 Old 01-24-2005, 01:15 AM
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I agree with Paul-synthetics made the difference for me. Shifted like butter compared to before. At your next oil change try a full synthetic (not a blend) and see if you notice a difference.

'08 SYM HD200
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post #8 of 20 Old 01-24-2005, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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will do.

I did notice [to the point about the Mobil's] on a shadow 1100 I had: they all have a "tick". nothing dangerous its just a crankcase noise that may come from the timing chain or something. on mine [one of the two I had] it was abnormally LOUD. went through a bunch of oils with no change. then finally bit the bullet and bought the V4 Mobil 1 10/40 mc oil. I had read there was "no difference" in the motorcyc oils and the ordinary mobil 1. as it turns out, there is. higher dose of minerals, zinc and ?? is it phosphor something? anyway, it darn near stopped the tick. after that I never ran anything else

z

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post #9 of 20 Old 01-24-2005, 06:59 PM
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False Neutrals

Greetings. Have you checked your clutch adjustment (assuming that there is an adjustment) My 1,000 has a hydrolic clutch and I've never checked to see if there is an adjustment at the slave cylinder.
Dave in Tennessee
st1100
dl1000
78, BMW R100/7 (for sale)
750 Norton
post #10 of 20 Old 01-25-2005, 11:24 AM
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Most motorcycle oils contain Zinc diakyl-dithiophosphate supposedly to smooth out shifting. I read at another group site where they mentioned that not enough of this additive is in the bike oils to really help improve shifting. The same ingredient in much larger proportion is in those really thick and gooey oil additives STP,Stud, etc. Some bikers ad a small amount to their oil and swear the tranny shifts smoother. Dan
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