Centech AP-1 fuse inquiry - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 10 Old 03-28-2013, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Centech AP-1 fuse inquiry

(My search effort provided no joy, so here I am.)

I will be installing the Centech AP-1 fuse panel on my '09 1K. To that end, I have purchased the Eastern Beaver 30A AP-1/BlueSea Fuse Panel Relay Kit.

In conjunction with the aforementioned relay kit, the Centech will be used to provide switched power for the following EB wiring harnesses:
1. H4 Dual Relay Kit; and
2. Single horn relay kit.

The horn relay kit provides power for a Stebel Nautilus compact air horn.

Where the positive wire connections to the Centech panel are concerned, I need to confirm the proper ATF fuse rating for each of the two wiring harnesses noted above. I'm thinking that the ATF fuses in the Centech panel should have the same amperage rating as the ATM fuses used in the relay kits. Is this correct?

At this time, I continue to wait from a reply from Jim Davis (Eastern Beaver).

Thanks.
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post #2 of 10 Old 03-28-2013, 02:13 PM
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Not sure I quite understand your question (probably don't)... But you only need one fuse per output... I wired my EB H4 headlight relay harness directly into my EB PC8 fuse panel sans the inline fuse that came with the harness itself (I bought the wrong harness so it came with an inline fuse which I removed) ... Since the EB fuse panel had a branch fuse for it anyway (i used 20amp)... In other words one fuse per branched circuit... The EB PC8 does however have a 30amp main fuse...

Hope this helps

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Last edited by CanadianFZ6; 03-28-2013 at 02:22 PM.
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post #3 of 10 Old 03-28-2013, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadianFZ6 View Post
(Y)ou only need one fuse per output... I wired my EB H4 headlight relay harness directly into my EB PC8 fuse panel sans the inline fuse that came with the harness itself. Since the EB fuse panel had a branch fuse for it anyway (i used 20amp)... In other words one fuse per branched circuit.
That's good thinking, CFZ6. My H4 and horn relay kits predate my purchase of the Centech and its associated EB wiring harness. Thus, my relay kits were assembled with inline fuses and ring terminals, insomuch that they were intended for direct battery connection. It would seem that connecting the two relay kits to a fuse block would serve to make the kits' inline fuses redundant.

Thanks.
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post #4 of 10 Old 03-28-2013, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tall Man View Post
That's good thinking, CFZ6. My H4 and horn relay kits predate my purchase of the Centech and its associated EB wiring harness. Thus, my relay kits were assembled with inline fuses and ring terminals, insomuch that they were intended for direct battery connection. It would seem that connecting the two relay kits to a fuse block would serve to make the kits' inline fuses redundant.

Thanks.
My thought too.... Cut out the redundant inline fuses and use the ones within the panel itself.... Whew, glad I didn't confuse you any further

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Last edited by CanadianFZ6; 03-28-2013 at 04:05 PM.
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post #5 of 10 Old 03-28-2013, 03:04 PM
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Cut out the inline fuses and use 20A fuses in the Centech AP-1 for both the headlight relay kit and the horn. The horn draw of around 13A could use a better safety margin than a 15A fuse will provide and the light draw is very close to 20A when the flash to pass switch is used.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
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post #6 of 10 Old 03-28-2013, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Understood, GW. Thank you.
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post #7 of 10 Old 03-28-2013, 06:03 PM
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The fuse size should be chosen based on the load of the device *OR* the ampacity of the wire feeding it, whichever is less. Wire is sized at 125% of the load and the fuse is chosen to blow before the limits of the wire are reached.

Based on 13 amps the horn should be fed with #14 wire (minimum size) and fused with a maximum of 20 amps. Based on 20 amps the lights should be fed with #12 wire and fused at 25 amps maximum.

Wire ampacity data is Here.

Scott Craig - Nashville, TN
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post #8 of 10 Old 03-28-2013, 06:36 PM
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That's a house wiring chart. Bike wiring is much shorter. Lights only get a full load when the flash to pass switch is engaged and, even in that case, only the hot and ground wires from the source to the relays carry both sets of lights. 14ga is plenty and 16ga is adequate.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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post #9 of 10 Old 03-28-2013, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
That's a house wiring chart. Bike wiring is much shorter. Lights only get a full load when the flash to pass switch is engaged and, even in that case, only the hot and ground wires from the source to the relays carry both sets of lights. 14ga is plenty and 16ga is adequate.
Whatever works for you. In my book 14 gauge is not plenty, 16 gauge is not adequate, and I would never wire a circuit that way.

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post #10 of 10 Old 03-28-2013, 07:58 PM
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Try this chart instead of one for bundled and buried conductors. The rating is all about heat. Use the chassis wiring column. American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies and wire strength

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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