Recommendations for routing wiring front & rear? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 5 Old 02-17-2007, 03:18 AM Thread Starter
bunner bob's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Seattle
Posts: 84
Recommendations for routing wiring front & rear?

I've got a bit of wiring to do on my new Wee.

Everything's going to run from fuse blocks in the storage area under the seat. I'm running wires to the handlebar area for GPS and radar, and to the below-the-handlebars area for horn and eventual driving lights. Also want to tap the high beam for my Autoswitch garage door opener. Figure I'll run everything now and just coil the extra for later installation.

To those who've taken things apart a time or two, I'm wondering if you have any recommendations on which side of the bike to run all this on, and what general path to follow. Something that won't be in the way when it's time to pull the tank, get into tb syncing, whatever.

Also I want to both tap the taillight wire (to switch the relay to my "switched" fuse panel) and splice into the brake light wire (to insert my brake light modulator). Is there somewhere these wires run that's especially close to the underseat storage area, and would make a good tapping point.

By the way, I should add that I refuse to use those scotchlock connectors. I've talked to a few BMW service guys who have tales of people who've tapped wires that way and had the scotchlock eventually break the wire. I usually heat a section of insulation with a lighter and peel it back, then twist on my wire and solder it, then tape the whole thing up really well. Never had a problem so far.

- Bob
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post #2 of 5 Old 02-17-2007, 06:53 AM
SCraig's Avatar
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 3,722
First, glad to see there is someone else who will not use crimped connectors. I absolutely, positively refuse to rely on anything crimped. Every connection gets soldered, period.

I routed everything on my bike in flex tube. It provides a lot of protection against chafing. From the back end forward I came along the frame rail behind the side panels (that have the DL650 / DL1000 stickers on them). Going forward I just found a convenient hole for the tube to fish through. When I finally got around to pulling the fairing and tank a few months later it was fine just like it was so I left it in place.

My fuse block is not switched (intentionally) however I did use one of the circuits to go to a relay-controlled barrier block to provide switched circuits. I tapped into the license plate light to get a switched control for the relay. Pretty much everything on the fuse block are things I want to stay on when the ignition is off or something that is self-switched (i.e. the horn using the factory horn circuit to control the relay). The only thing on the switched circuit right now are my grip heaters.

You could also do the opposite by installing a barrier strip for non-switched loads on the hot side of your switching relay. It's just a lot cleaner installation than having a bunch of wires going to the battery terminals.

Scott Craig - Nashville, TN
Red '06 Suzuki DL650 - Red '07 Honda VFR800 - My Bike Page
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post #3 of 5 Old 02-17-2007, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
bunner bob's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Seattle
Posts: 84
Thanks Scott - that sounds perfect. And no panel removal.

My plan is to do one fuse block off the battery (unswitched, but fused), and from that run power to power outlet, GPS and a second (switched) fuse block. From the second block I'll run power for radar, horn (relayed via stock horn power) and lights, including some extra LED taillights.

I really only need 3 or 4 circuits per block, but I'm using those Blue Sea blocks with 6 circuits each - guess I'll have some spares for the TV or microwave...

I'll tap into the brake light wire for my flasher, and downstream from the flasher connect my extra LED taillights' "bright" mode for extra brake lights.

The two fuse blocks are probably overkill but there's room and it does keep things neat.
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post #4 of 5 Old 02-17-2007, 02:12 PM
tmcgee's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Braintree, Massachusetts
Posts: 8,025
I won't depend on crimp, but if I do crimp, it also gets soldered every time. I keep a butane iron in the tankbag.

As to aux power blocks, I have one in the cowl and one under the seat. For the moment, the wiring going to the cowl is gaffers-taped to the frame. Next time I have the tank off, I'll prolly run some plastic split-loom instead.

-Tom (DL650AL2) (KA1TOX) (E-I-E-I-O)

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post #5 of 5 Old 02-18-2007, 11:21 AM
NoVA-Strom's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 413
I just wired up my box yesterday. Still haven't finalized though cause I have to finalize and make everything pretty. Take of the luggage rack, then take off the two screws at the back fender and pull off the entire rear fender. The wires hot wires for the tail light area were all grey for my 06. A single main, then a connection to the rest. I have some pictures and when I am done I will put together a little how-to.

Red 2006 V-Strom 650: "the most shockingly competent machine in the world today"
Alpenkönig (a.k.a. King of the Alps): 2005, 2006

1989 Sportster Bobber Hardtail
1990 Electra Glide with Cop Bags
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