Lowering the pegs without cutting the shaft (pics) - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 13 Old 01-26-2007, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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Lowering the pegs without cutting the saft (pics)

At 6' 5" there aren't too many bikes that come straight from the factory designed to fit tall riders like me, and the Strom is no different. This means you have to make a few changes to the bike. Changes like getting a taller seat and lowering the foot pegs. As it turns out the 650's seat is an easy fix.... nothing to it, just swap it out for a 1000 seat (done).
The pegs, on the other hand, pose a problem that if I had to guess, I'd say probably stops many would-be lowering kit buyers in their tracks.

Regardless of what the manufacturer http://www.motorcyclelarry.com/dl1000fp.aspx says, the kit will leave your brake pedal and shifter in an uncomfortable position. The brake pedal in particular will be left such that you will have to remove your foot completely from the peg to apply the brake.
This results in a drastically diminished ability to apply the rear brake with any amount of "feel" or control.


Unfortunately the actuator rod that runs between the back of the brake pedal and the bottom of the master cylinder doesn't offer enough adjustability to overcome the drop of the peg on its own. My first idea, an idea tried successfully by others on this board, was to modify/shorten the actuator rod itself.. I even designed a rod to completely replace the stock unit so I wouldn't have to cut and weld it back together again.

This was my first idea.
(one's adjustable and the other is a set length design)

Since the factory part/rod is 8mm in diameter, I simply cut and shaped an 8mm X 3" length of stainless steel all-thread to replace it. There are slight differences between my part and the stock unit, but not enough to effect its performance (it would have worked had I not opted for another, easier, design).

When I unbolted the master cylinder from the bike and noticed that the master cyclinder moved upwards as the pedal when down, I quickly realized making an adapter for the cylinder was going to be a much better way to go.

Last edited by BigT; 01-27-2007 at 08:16 PM. Reason: It didn't work.
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post #2 of 13 Old 01-26-2007, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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The adapter is made from a 1/8" piece of aluminum plate, cut to clear the various obstacles on the frame and cyl.

If you look closely you can just see the original bolts from the cylinder through the slots in the cyl. guard. I moved the mounting holes of the master cylinder up and back at a 45 degree angle a distance of 3/4". With the total travel of the actuator rod being less than 3/4" itself, there are ZERO issues with the changed angle of the cylinder and rod.
(Note: 45 degrees is the angle between the holes, not the new angle of the cyl. or rod. They stay almost the same).


This simple change results in the brake pedal returning to it's original location.
Also, due to the short amount of travel in the actuator rod/brake pedal, there are no problems with the pedal running out of room and hitting the frame behind the pivot point (where the rod attaches).
The only other change I had to make was to stretch the brake light spring a tiny bit to release pressure on the switch (there's also an adjustable nut on the brake light switch).


The shifter is easy to adjust, with infinite adjustment possibilities and even a fine adjust knob.

Anyway, that's my design.

-Tim

I have no affiliation with motorcyclelarry.com the manufacturer of the lowering kit.

Last edited by BigT; 01-27-2007 at 08:17 PM.
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post #3 of 13 Old 01-26-2007, 08:55 PM
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Nice. No OEM parts are changed so it's easy to go back to stock.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #4 of 13 Old 01-27-2007, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigT View Post
I have no affiliation with motorcyclelarry.com the manufacturer of the lowering kit.
Hey Tim, you *could* make a deal with Larry for some adapter plates, yes?

-Tom (DL650AL2) (KA1TOX) (E-I-E-I-O)

This message and images are licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. http://creativecommons.org
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post #5 of 13 Old 01-27-2007, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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A package deal

IMO Larry should include an adapter plate with the kits.
I mean how hard (or expensive) could it be? I just cut a peice of aluminum plate with a hacksaw, filed it into the right shape and drilled four holes in it. Simple.

-T
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post #6 of 13 Old 01-27-2007, 06:43 PM
 
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that is a hell of a good idea, simple, elegant. I think I even have some 1/4" stock left over from when I built a dash shelf for the KLR, I'll have to give this a try. It will need to wait tho until it gets above freezing in my garage.
I put the Hepco crash bars on last night in the low-to-mid 20's (F) which reminded me why it is I don't work with hand tools outside this time of year.
The piece looks to be roughly 1" by 2", right? I'll use the master cyclinder as a template once it warms up but I might cut up some blanks before then.
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post #7 of 13 Old 01-29-2007, 12:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rider33 View Post
The piece looks to be roughly 1" by 2", right?
I think it's more like 1" by 3", and I didn't use 1/4" plate because I didn't want to shove the cylinder too far inwards and mess up the rod travel/alignment.

-T
(It'll likely work just as well)
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post #8 of 13 Old 01-29-2007, 01:08 PM
 
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1x 3" 1/8th then it will be. I'll make up some blanks tonight, just in case spring ever gets here. Thanks, a much better solution than what I was planning.
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post #9 of 13 Old 03-05-2007, 12:13 PM
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BigT -- Can you explain how the fasteners work in your setup? I tried this on mine but could not get the stock cover plate on. If I put the stock cover where yours is, I couldn't reach around to get nuts on the fasteners. And the plate-bolt heads prevented me from putting it back using the original fasteners into the cylinder.

Also the brake cylinder would not lie flat against the new aluminum plate during mock-up. So I had to use a couple of nuts between the cylinder and plate to space it out. I would get some real bushings for a final install.

I'm pretty inept at fabricating.

If you have any inclination to manufacture these I'd be interested.

--Kevin

------------------------
2005 DL 650 K5
ex - 2002 KLR 650
ex - 1981 IT 250 Yam (wish I still had it!)
ex - 1979 GS 750
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post #10 of 13 Old 03-14-2007, 10:18 AM
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Big T, How is the shifter side with the lowering blocks? Do you just adjust the shifter arm down and all is cool?

What say you?

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