Idiots Guide To....madstad Bracket - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 17 Old 11-28-2006, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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Madstad installation - Posts merged

Let me start by apologising for the multi page post. I read the threads on how to post pics but just could not figure out how to do multi photo posts with test in between posts. So please be patient and wait until I've completed the posts before replying.

Well here it is the Idiots guide to installing the madstad bracket. Complete with pics showing every step. It is very important to know this principle before you commence any project. PPAPPPPP.

(Prior preperation and pre planning prevents piss poor performance)

And upon this introduction I have one more very important note. This installation requires a very important product. "Grey Matter Lubricant" or GML. GML is available in most countries but the packaging may differ. Generally GML performs much better chilled and Suzuki even provide a OEM GML stand on your strom. (see pic 1)

Okay now that we have the GML chilled and ready to go, we get out our toolbox (in this case only a phillips head screwdriver is required) and unpack our USPS parcel, see pics 2&3 for parcel contents.

(Pic 4) Remove the plastic covers over the windshield mounting holes. You will NOT NEED the two screws that were used, but save them somewhere.

(Pic 5) Remove the four screws holding down the windshield. All four screws and washers will be used on your new madstad mount.

(PIC 6&7) Remove the 4 holding screws holding the suzuki plastic mounting bracket and remove the bracket. You will not need these screws or the bracket.

(Pics 8,9,10,11)Remove the four rubber compression nuts (well nuts) that are in the plastic bracket by popping them out from the back. You will need to un-snap the plastic cover that is on the back of the tsock mount to get to the two bottom well nuts. Save all four well nuts, they will be used on your new madstad mount. If these well nuts are torn up or damaged you may order extras at www.madstad.com

(Pics 12,13,14)Take the rubber well nuts from the stock mount and push them into the top and bottom holes on each of the two brackets. Install the additional two well nuts that were included in your hardware packet into the second lowest holes.

(Pic15,16,17,18) Your new mount also come with 8 adhesive rubber bumpers. Use the included alcohol pad to clean the metal where the bumpers will be placed. When the alcohol dries, stick the bumpers in the locations as shown.

(Pic 19) Position the brackets over the cowling mounting holes. The middle position is what is shown in these photos. Use the M6 x 20 button socket cap screws with lock washers and flat washers to secure each side to the cowling as shown at left. Use the allen key/wrench to tighten snugly, but do not over-tighten.

Prepare the windshield by making sure the upper brackets are moved fully down and forward. This places both brackets in the same position for easy windshield installation. Tighten the knobs so that the brackets dont move.

(Pic 20) Position the windshield over the rubber well nuts, aligning all four holes, and screw the windshield mounting screws (with washers from stock setup) in until snug. You may need to place a finger on the back of each compression nut to prevent it from spinning as you begin to tighten each screw. Once the nuts start to compress they will hold themselves.

(Pic 21) Replace the two plastic trim covers using the M5 x 25 screws through the fender washers then through the covers and windshield into the M5 well nuts that came pre intalled in your mount. Tighten the screws just enough to secure the plastic covers to the surface of the windshield, if you overtighten the screws you may crack the trim pieces, and they are expensive to replace.

The upper wing screws release the action allowing the brackets to slide and tilt. These wing screws must be secured tightly before riding.

The instructions give some suggestions for intial settings but I guess it will be a case of trying different settings. I have yet to try it out due to having too many GML's this afternoon, will try tomorrow. Below are some pics in different positions.
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DL650K7, OEM centrestand, Givi crashbars, Ventura rack and bag,SW Motech Quicklock Tank "Trial" Bag, Oxford Soft Pannier Bags, Ventura headlight guard, Dan V Skidplate, Dan V Radiator and Oil Cooler guards, Dan V Luggage protector, Hyperlites, Madstad windshield bracket, Eagle Screen, Pyramid Fenda Extenda, Crampbuster, Kaoko Throttle Lock, Acerbis Handguards, Bicycle handlbar Highways Pegs Mk II, Autocom & UHF CB, Pacsafe.

Last edited by pilbaralad; 11-30-2006 at 07:51 AM. Reason: Pic numbers added for easier reference
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post #2 of 17 Old 11-28-2006, 11:44 AM
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Smile Tip:

The rubber well nuts are a lot easier to re-install if you put some dish soap on them.
The well nut bolts were factory over tightened on my k6 650. A 6mm x 100 tap and die straightened things out.

Last edited by bill l; 11-28-2006 at 11:52 AM.
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post #3 of 17 Old 11-28-2006, 05:10 PM
 
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IMHO they look ugly unless modified

I have a MadStad and it works great, but I could not deal with the windsreen looking like it belonged on the bike in front of me. It stuck way up too far in the bottom front. So for what it is worth, look at mine pictures and compare... I think mine now looks "almost" like it was made for the VStrom.
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post #4 of 17 Old 11-28-2006, 05:58 PM
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Excellant write up and pics. Take a bow. When I ordered, I also had new well nuts included just in case of an oops on my part and now I have spares.

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post #5 of 17 Old 11-28-2006, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by element View Post
I have a MadStad and it works great, but I could not deal with the windsreen looking like it belonged on the bike in front of me. It stuck way up too far in the bottom front. So for what it is worth, look at mine pictures and compare... I think mine now looks "almost" like it was made for the VStrom.
So what are you saying here? Did you modify the bracket? Use something else? Just replace screen? Remember this is reply to an idiots guide post so you need to spell things out and some close up pics would be good too.

DL650K7, OEM centrestand, Givi crashbars, Ventura rack and bag,SW Motech Quicklock Tank "Trial" Bag, Oxford Soft Pannier Bags, Ventura headlight guard, Dan V Skidplate, Dan V Radiator and Oil Cooler guards, Dan V Luggage protector, Hyperlites, Madstad windshield bracket, Eagle Screen, Pyramid Fenda Extenda, Crampbuster, Kaoko Throttle Lock, Acerbis Handguards, Bicycle handlbar Highways Pegs Mk II, Autocom & UHF CB, Pacsafe.
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post #6 of 17 Old 11-28-2006, 07:16 PM
 
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Re-drilled lower holes

There are 2 lower brackets (the ones that attach to the fairing) Each bracket has two holes, upper and one lower hole on each side bracket.

(on my version the lower holes did not have the wing nuts, just lock nuts)

The problem: When the windshiled top is tilted back to improve air flow, the bottom of he windshield goes up.

The solution is to re-drill the lower holes. The easy way to determine how much is to put the all the way up and all the way back and then remove the lower two bolts and slide the front down where you like it and mark the holes for drilling.

FYI I emailed MadStad about my mods and never heard back... I was thinking he could without too much trouble drill several more holes in his brackets so customer would have more options.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PIC00028.jpg (51.3 KB, 227 views)

Last edited by element; 11-28-2006 at 07:19 PM. Reason: add picture
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post #7 of 17 Old 11-28-2006, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the explanation element, a couple of pics would be great though! Me thinks Madtstad would be worried you would want royalties for his next model :mrgreen:

DL650K7, OEM centrestand, Givi crashbars, Ventura rack and bag,SW Motech Quicklock Tank "Trial" Bag, Oxford Soft Pannier Bags, Ventura headlight guard, Dan V Skidplate, Dan V Radiator and Oil Cooler guards, Dan V Luggage protector, Hyperlites, Madstad windshield bracket, Eagle Screen, Pyramid Fenda Extenda, Crampbuster, Kaoko Throttle Lock, Acerbis Handguards, Bicycle handlbar Highways Pegs Mk II, Autocom & UHF CB, Pacsafe.
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post #8 of 17 Old 01-19-2007, 11:48 PM
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So how's your bracket working with the stock screen? (that is the stock screen isn't it?).

-T
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post #9 of 17 Old 01-20-2007, 12:12 AM
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Quote:
Okay now that we have the GML chilled and ready to go, we get out our toolbox (in this case only a phillips head screwdriver is required) and unpack our USPS parcel, see pics 2&3 for parcel contents.
So despite the fact the photos show you using a hex wrench you actually only used a Phillips head screw driver.
How much XXXX was consumed during the PPAPPPPP stage?

Great story, I'm sure it will prove invaluable to many people.
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post #10 of 17 Old 01-20-2007, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K1W1 View Post
So despite the fact the photos show you using a hex wrench you actually only used a Phillips head screw driver..
Quote:
Originally Posted by pilbaralad View Post
Use the M6 x 20 button socket cap screws with lock washers and flat washers to secure each side to the cowling as shown at left. Use the allen key/wrench to tighten snugly, but do not over-tighten..
Read it a little more slowly next time.

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