Wiring Aux Lights...I NEED HELP!!! - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 04-15-2012, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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Wiring Aux Lights...I NEED HELP!!!

Hi,

Today I purchased a set of driving lights from Walmart. The box says they are Optronics something or others and they are 55w bulbs (I will switch them out for 35's so as not to drain the batter). I removed the reflectors on the front forks and bolted the bracket into that receiving end.



The mounting went fine...but I know absolutely nothing about wiring. Off of each lamp comes two wires, one black and one white.



The black lead connects to an extension wire that is supposed to be ground on something on the bike.



The white power wire from each lamp connects to an extension lead...both of those leads then connect into one single power wire via a Y connector of some kind.



According to the included instructions (modified because these are not designed for bikes, but others on this site have set them up, although their directions were unclear), I run the single white power wire into the middle port on the included rocker switch. The black ground wires are only about 1.5 feet long so I have to ground them to some point on the bike close to the front wheel (ideas?). Then I have to connect the black ground wire for the switch



to one of the other connectors on the rocker switch. Finally, I have to connect the red power lead



from the positive connection on the battery to the last remaining port on the back of the rocker switch. The red power wire has a 15 amp safety fuse built in.

My questions: How do I get the red power wire from the battery all the way up to the rocker switch that is going to be mounted on the dashboard?

Is 55W per bulb too much for the bike to handle?

I don't know what a relay is but do I need one?

Would it be better to wire the lamps directly into an ignition on switch so that they run all the time the ignition is on as opposed to having an on-off switch.

Where would be a good point to ground both the black ground wire coming off of the switch and those coming off of the lamps themselves?

I really appreciate any and all help that you guys have to offer!
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post #2 of 11 Old 04-15-2012, 01:57 AM Thread Starter
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Update:

The red power wire that is supposed to connect from the battery to the rocker switch is no way near long enough. Does that mean I have to wire it directly into the ignition wire? Or is there a way to extend the wire?
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post #3 of 11 Old 04-15-2012, 09:50 AM
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Yes, the 55W bulbs are pushing the edge of the system. Do switch to 35W.

You need a relay. And you can extend the wires with splices. The ground for the lights needs to be run all the way back to the battery, as well as the main power. Highly recommend a switched power supply so you don't leave the lights on inadvertently, draining your battery. Check out Eastern Beaver for ideas.

Also recommend you find someone local to help you with the wiring. It's not difficult, but if not done with proper technique - such as splicing and extending the wires - you can end up with flaky operation and endless frustration.
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-15-2012, 11:26 AM
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You need to extend the ground wire to the negative battery terminal too. Your bike has an aluminum mainframe and steel subframe. Passing current through a steel to aluminum connection can cause dissimilar metals galvanic corrosion.

You either need to educate yourself on electrical matters or have the work done. A relay is basically a heavy duty switch thrown by an electromagnet that is controlled by a light duty switch. Chances are that rocker switch you have is a light duty switch and you need a relay. While some people cheap out and tuck wires in where they can, taking the tank off and sleeving the wiring is the way to go.
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post #5 of 11 Old 04-15-2012, 03:11 PM
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And put a fuse in it!!
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-15-2012, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
You need to extend the ground wire to the negative battery terminal too. Your bike has an aluminum mainframe and steel subframe. Passing current through a steel to aluminum connection can cause dissimilar metals galvanic corrosion.

You either need to educate yourself on electrical matters or have the work done. A relay is basically a heavy duty switch thrown by an electromagnet that is controlled by a light duty switch. Chances are that rocker switch you have is a light duty switch and you need a relay. While some people cheap out and tuck wires in where they can, taking the tank off and sleeving the wiring is the way to go.
I have educated myself somewhat and I understand the function of a relay. However, I do not know where to purchase one. Eastern Beaver's link on their website just redirects to a "link not found" page. Can I find one locally at a Home Depot or something?

I went to Lowes today and bought some butt splices and some 12 gauge wire to extend the grounds to the negative terminal as well as some larger ring terminals because the originals did not fit around the diameter of the battery bolt.

Would you recommend wiring the rocker switch and leaving it under the seat or wiring it to a more accessible location so that I could turn it on and off at any time? I'm still going to use a relay either way but which would be better?

Also, I found some 20W xenon 12V bulbs at Lowes that I didn't pick up but might. Would these work okay in terms of brightness and power draw?
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-15-2012, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCraig View Post
And put a fuse in it!!
The red power wire that runs from the positive terminal to the rocker switch has a fuse built into it...15W I think.
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-15-2012, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigwood-strom View Post
The red power wire that runs from the positive terminal to the rocker switch has a fuse built into it...15W I think.
Can you get to it? On the side of the road, in the dark?

Scott Craig - Nashville, TN
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post #9 of 11 Old 04-11-2016, 03:48 PM
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IM looking at a pair of 18 watt 1.5 amp driving lights to mount. I have three questions
1. Would you recommend flood or driving beam?
2. Given that the amperage is so low, can I install without a relay?
3. Has anyone mounted a flush mount switch 8n to the cover of the 8nstrument cluster?
Thanks in advance.
post #10 of 11 Old 04-11-2016, 07:11 PM
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1. One of each

2. A relay is best unless you are going directly to the battery and will manually turn the lights on and off, if you wish to use your lights to trigger the new lights a relay will ensure there is no extra load on the existing wires and switches, relays are cheap and easy to install so why not do it right the first time, overloading the OME system would cost more than a relay, on my V2 the plastic plug that goes on to the low beam headlight globe has melted I would not like to load that system anymore.

3. There is not a lot of room behind the dash for switches but it probably could be done.
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