Latest fork settings with Race Tech - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 18 Old 07-24-2010, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Latest fork settings with Race Tech

I hope I am not causing trouble here, especially since I rarely post. I just received my Race Tech emulators and fork springs from Blair at SV Racing. Great service, very fast shipping. After reading the instructions from Race Tech and a couple of hours on this site, my old brain is confused.
Emulators; blue spring? 1.75 turns out?
Fork oil; 10wt or 15wt?
Damper rod; 6 holes and braze the upper hole?
Springs; spacer length?
Any help would be appreciated or point me to the most sucessful thread.
I weigh 160 lbs and ride a 2004 DL 650 with 43,000 miles. I am installing an Elka on the back. Thanks in advance, John in PDX
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post #2 of 18 Old 07-25-2010, 10:43 AM
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After reading and reading I went 1 3/4 turns, 15w, 6 holes - did not braze the rebound hole shut, .95 springs where new spacer + new spring = same length as standard spacer + standard spring. I weigh 172, have Wilbers shock and 100% on-road. Both front and rear compress and rebound equally and at the same rate when I alternately sit or stand over the bike - minor miracle in my eyes! Plush ride and handles better than it has a right to.

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post #3 of 18 Old 08-20-2010, 11:27 AM
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John, if you haven't figured out your setup, I would suggest the blue spring, 1.5 turns in from first contact, 10wt oil and enough spacer to give 20 mm of preload (so that when spring and spacer sit in the fork leg and you place the fork cap on top, the underside of the cap rim is 20 mm over the top of the fork). I would follow the directions on the instructions about the holes - six near the bottom of the damper rod, leave the rebound hole as is, IIRC.

(Does anyone know where are people getting the idea to braze the rebound hole shut? What's the thinking there?)

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post #4 of 18 Old 08-20-2010, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pak29 View Post
(Does anyone know where are people getting the idea to braze the rebound hole shut? What's the thinking there?)
It's in the RaceTech instructions.

-Tom (DL650AL2) (KA1TOX) (E-I-E-I-O)

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post #5 of 18 Old 08-25-2010, 07:52 AM
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I'm also very interested in this RT setup info. I just purchased a DL650 that had the gold valves and .90 springs in the forks. (I weigh 220 and don't know if this will be enough spring)

My rebound tubes do not have the small rebound hole welded shut and the valves have the yellow spring on it.

What does RT say about which spring to use on the valve body? What is the best way to determine the preload on this colored valve spring?

... BTW, sorry if this is highjacking the thread a little...:mrgreen:
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post #6 of 18 Old 09-10-2010, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmcgee View Post
It's in the RaceTech instructions.
I just installed the RT emulators and the instructions specifically said to NOT braze over the small rebound holes.

]

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post #7 of 18 Old 09-10-2010, 02:12 PM
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I've not yet braised....which is probably why I've never considered getting a mod where I would have to do such a thing....

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post #8 of 18 Old 09-10-2010, 11:45 PM
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No need to braze, you can rivet the hole shut. I can't recall off the cuff the rivet size (3/32?), but it fits perfectly.

cheers,

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Last edited by rcacs; 09-10-2010 at 11:49 PM.
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post #9 of 18 Old 09-11-2010, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDale View Post
I just installed the RT emulators and the instructions specifically said to NOT braze over the small rebound holes.
They are confusing instructions, yes?

-Tom (DL650AL2) (KA1TOX) (E-I-E-I-O)

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post #10 of 18 Old 09-21-2010, 10:08 AM
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Yes, DO plug the rebound holes. With the holes open, the rebound is too quick when the suspension is deeper in the stroke and it makes things weird. Remember, the rebound hole is actually part of the compression circuit for a fork without the emulator. (been there, done that, thought about that...)

As far as what RT says.... Getting advice from those guys is frustrating and non-productive. I'm sure from their standpoint, they'd rather not say anything so people aren't doing it wrong and get all PO'd, and maybe a legal thing, too. I installed my emulators as drop in stockers and have recalibrated substantially since. I can assure you, there is improvement to be found.

In addition to welding/plugging/brazing (I welded mine), I would suggest all this-

a) While you have the emulator out, add another bleed hole to the emulator valve plate. I added one 3/32" diameter hole and that helps a lot with the small in town sharp hits.
b) Buy the RT blue springs for the emulator ($10) and start with 1 turn of preload. Don't be afraid to go less preload- I ran with 1/4 turn before I added the extra bleed hole and it was still firm. At your weight, I would start at 1/2 turn.
c) Start with 10 wt fluid at 150mm level. (compressed fork with the emulators installed)
d) Have about 10-15mm of preload on the springs (measure how far the fork cap is away from its final installed position without compressing the spring).
e) Before you drop in the emulators, make yourself a wire hook to fish out the emulator valve in the future. SO much easier to bend it just right with the emulator in front of you, rather than guessing and trying to hook it.

Good luck with the project!

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Last edited by Bazooka Joe; 09-21-2010 at 10:15 AM.
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