Yes, DO plug the rebound holes. With the holes open, the rebound is too quick when the suspension is deeper in the stroke and it makes things weird. Remember, the rebound hole is actually part of the compression circuit for a fork without the emulator. (been there, done that, thought about that...)
As far as what RT says.... Getting advice from those guys is frustrating and non-productive. I'm sure from their standpoint, they'd rather not say anything so people aren't doing it wrong and get all PO'd, and maybe a legal thing, too. I installed my emulators as drop in stockers and have recalibrated substantially since. I can assure you, there is improvement to be found.
In addition to welding/plugging/brazing (I welded mine), I would suggest all this-
a) While you have the emulator out, add another bleed hole to the emulator valve plate. I added one 3/32" diameter hole and that helps a lot with the small in town sharp hits.
b) Buy the RT blue springs for the emulator ($10) and start with 1 turn of preload. Don't be afraid to go less preload- I ran with 1/4 turn before I added the extra bleed hole and it was still firm. At your weight, I would start at 1/2 turn.
c) Start with 10 wt fluid at 150mm level. (compressed fork with the emulators installed)
d) Have about 10-15mm of preload on the springs (measure how far the fork cap is away from its final installed position without compressing the spring).
e) Before you drop in the emulators, make yourself a wire hook to fish out the emulator valve in the future. SO much easier to bend it just right with the emulator in front of you, rather than guessing and trying to hook it.
Good luck with the project!
18 1000 XT yellow. Bunch of goodies installed.
2015 Yamaha WR250F- Street plated woods bike
Previous rides- about 25 different bikes, mostly dirtbikes.
Last edited by Bazooka Joe; 09-21-2010 at 10:15 AM.