Loobman chain oiler fitting with pictures. - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 40 Old 07-13-2006, 03:01 PM
Grim
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Loobman chain oiler fitting with pictures.

This was pretty easy; the instructions arenít bad, if a little ropey. The drawings are a bit naff. However you would need a degree in stupidity to mess it up even with the artwork lacking Van Goughís deft touch.









I assembled the head before I started taking pictures, but you lose nothing by not seeing just the bits. You do need to be gentle when fitting the ends of the cable ties to make the oil guides and tightening the ties that hold it all together.

Bending the wire that holds the head is not as much fun, it gets scratched and a bit knobbly after all the dips and turns are made, and you need to take account of the extra millimetre the feet add to the basic fit. In retrospect I should have put insulating tape around the jaws to prevent abrasion.







I added the third foot to the top of the swing arm to keep the wire off the Ally (Aluminium) and in doing so created (accidentally) a nice little run for the feed tube, which takes it well out of harms way. I'm going to put some more ties round the wires like little bumpers, again just to keep all the wire off of the frame.





The bottle was easy to place but fiddly to get the top cable tie in, and you need to mess around with the tubes position inside the bottle once fitted to ensure that it sits at the lowest part of the bottle (obvious but takes a few minutes of twiddling).



All fitted and waiting to filled and tried, I couldnít do it today because Iím not allowed out on the bike till Friday, because her Ladyship says Iíve got to help get the house ready for her birthday. :?





The frog in the brick acts as a nice lift in the absence of a paddock stand to get the bike upright.





The cat had the hump because she uses the bike seat as somewhere to lie when itís too hot in the back garden :wink:



Its cheap as chips, it can run on chainsaw oil or 10W40 I'm going to try the chainsaw oil first, partly because its bio-degradeable and partly because i've got loads of it and its a lot cheaper than 10W40.

Iíll scribble an addendum once Iíve filled the bottle and been out for a few miles.
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post #2 of 40 Old 07-13-2006, 04:49 PM
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I've got one of these. Have about 1,000 miles on it. I have gone through 2 plastic zip-tie ends used to deliver the oil (and it is currently broken again).

Most of this (say 75%) is due to the poor job I did bending the wire. A little bit (say 25%) is due to how long the wire has to travel without support to position the head assembly correctly when mounted on a Strom.

When bouncing along dirt roads, the vibration causes the oil delivery zip-tie end thingies to break off.

Based on your pictures, I believe you did a better job of minimizing the length of unsupported wire than I did. I should rebend my install to match yours. I hope your mounting prevents the broken tip syndrome I suffer.

The job of replacing the zip-tie ends isn't hard, just obnoxiously filthy and takes up time that would be better spent riding.

In general, the simple approach taken by the Loobman appeals to me. It would be ideal if there was less opportunity for wire-bending challenged folk like me to mess up.

2005 Blue "Wee"
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post #3 of 40 Old 07-14-2006, 02:41 AM
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Have I got this right - you have to reach down and squeeze the bottle as you ride? Doesn't it make a mess over time? I just spray my chain when I fuel up or after a wash of some sort - seems to work OK.
Keep repoting.

Al

"If our world didn't suck - we'd all fall off!"
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post #4 of 40 Old 07-14-2006, 02:42 AM
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Oops a typo. Please keep us informed.

"If our world didn't suck - we'd all fall off!"
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post #5 of 40 Old 07-14-2006, 05:01 AM
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I can be quite sad at times

I cogitated for several days about wire bending, broken tips, overall vibration blah blah blah. The extra bending that creates the "swan neck" for want of a better term, will either cause more overall rubbing at the tips which will wear them off, or (I'm hoping) will allow the flexion/vibration to be dispersed, I've also tied the tube to the wire and hopefully this will also dampen vibration. The extra bend did leave me with a short wire for making the brace but I think this may well have worked to my advantage in the end, because I then had to tweak the wire inside the groove on the swing arm, which sort of locked the whole frame in place and made it all feel a little stiffer.

kamloopsal: According to the instructions you give the bottle a little squeeze before setting off, the oil then sits in the tube. As you ride the oil in the tubes falls to the delivery guides (cable/zip ties cut to size) and feeds oil onto the sprocket at the nine O clock position, this is then spread centrifugally to the chain. It is a total loss system but then so is the wax I've been using, and its a pain in the neck cleaning the old wax off.

I guess the acid test is estimating the size of squeeze to the length of journey, in addition to ground conditions, (dust, mud, tarmac). The idea is that you donít leave too much oil in the tube because when you park; it will continue to drip out, as opposed to being spread round the sprocket. This I think is the only real drawback of the system. At first I will use a minimal squeeze on a known journey and see how wet the chain is at the other end and then just guestimate from there on. :?

I clean the bike frequently and have made a note to self to leave a pump up garden spray with clean water and a long pan brush with some detergent out in my little instant maintenance niche, to ensure that any build up is dealt with before it fouls the tires or brakes.

If this system works then I wonít need the next option which is the Scottoiler. Which means I donít need to connect to vacuum tubes and the like and of course the Scottoiler is four time the price for the basic kit and doesnít oil both sides of the chain unless you buy the double head as an extra.


And all before i've my Shredded Wheat. ttfn chaps
post #6 of 40 Old 07-14-2006, 03:38 PM
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It only takes one very tiny squeeze for an all day trip.

I also found that in Texas heat, the bottle would be too well sealed, and the increasing air pressure inside the bottle would continue to squeeze oil out. I learned to loosen the top about mid-day. The instructions have a suggestion for poking a hole in a specific part of the tubing with a needle if you get this kind of issue. I haven't bothered, as (1) my tips are currently chewed off and (2) the top loosening is easy and seemed to work.

2005 Blue "Wee"
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post #7 of 40 Old 07-14-2006, 04:07 PM
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Wait guys a bit. I am right now on the way to develop a mechanical oiler system which doesn't suffer from gravity issues and no need of vacuum as well.
It's a bit time consuming so patience! Will report when ready.

BalŠzs

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post #8 of 40 Old 07-14-2006, 04:16 PM
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Will it be affected by pressure increase/decrease? Specifically, altitude changes?

That's one thing that concerns me about the Loobman, I ride in an altitude range of 6k to 12k feet and sometimes 14k ft (roughly 1800 to 4200 meters for you.) It seems that by the time I got to the top of the pass, I would be out of oil and my bike would be a mess.

I don't know that for fact it just seems like that's what would happen with what I know about how it's designed.

Feel free to educate me.

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post #9 of 40 Old 07-14-2006, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vstromper
Will it be affected by pressure increase/decrease? Specifically, altitude changes?

That's one thing that concerns me about the Loobman, I ride in an altitude range of 6k to 12k feet and sometimes 14k ft (roughly 1800 to 4200 meters for you.) It seems that by the time I got to the top of the pass, I would be out of oil and my bike would be a mess.

I don't know that for fact it just seems like that's what would happen with what I know about how it's designed.

Feel free to educate me.
The Loobman instructions tell you that in these conditions or if you ride with a large temperature swing frequently then you should put a tiny hole in the hose just inside the bottle. This will allow the air pressure to equalize in the bottle instead of forcing the oil out.

If you put that hole in, you should not lose all the oil.

I believe the recommendation is to use a needle that is heated red hot to make the pin hole small enough to let air through but not lose all the oil when you squeeze the bottle.

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post #10 of 40 Old 07-15-2006, 01:40 AM
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mokusbajusz - we're waiting!
I hope it's not an enclosed chain case with an oil bath? Wait a minute, it worked well on old CZs (or was that MZs?).

Al

"If our world didn't suck - we'd all fall off!"
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