Negative Grounding Question - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 13 Old 06-22-2010, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Negative Grounding Question

Hey all,

I'm getting ready to install a 12v power outlet I bought from O'Reilly Auto Parts.





It has plenty of positive wire already to get back to the battery, but the ground wire is only 1 ft long.

Where is the best place to put that to be safely grounded? I searched a lot before asking and see I definitely don't want to ground to the frame or anything and should look for another bundle of ground wires and go into that.

Any suggestions? Or am I better off splicing in more wire and running it with the positive back to the negative battery post?

BTW, the outlet fits perfectly in between the cable-stay bracket.



(Obviously not tightened down yet. But a perfect fit in there.)

Last edited by MeanStreaker; 06-22-2010 at 02:43 PM.
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post #2 of 13 Old 06-22-2010, 02:46 PM
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Run both wires all the way to the battery, with an appropriate fuse.

Not to discourage you, but that style receptacle gets pretty rusty pretty quickly. Just my experience, but I ride in the rain, winter salt, and live in a salt air environment. YMMV.

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Last edited by 510ebl; 06-22-2010 at 02:48 PM.
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post #3 of 13 Old 06-22-2010, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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OK, I thought that might be the answer. Anyone else feel free to jump in.

But while I have you experts, I'll come right out and say I'm not an electrical guy and have never played with wiring before.

What do I need to do to add additional wire to the black... and inline a fuse to the positive... and put terminal rings on the ends.

Am I stripping down to bare wire and using crimpers for all of those uses ? Is that secure enough? Wrap electrical tape around the crimpers to protect them?

Also, what's the best way to run the wires back to the battery? Do I need to remove the gas tank?
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post #4 of 13 Old 06-22-2010, 03:08 PM
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Not a fan of crimped connections. I solder most all connections I make. I'd use heatshrink instead of electrical tape. When you run the wiring make sure it doesn't rub on sharp edges anywhere or touch any hot engine parts. As mentioned, run both wires to the battery with an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible.

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post #5 of 13 Old 06-22-2010, 03:34 PM
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Go by Radio Shack or any good auto parts store. Pick up some wiring terminals like This to go to the battery posts. Make sure the space between the lugs is large enough to get around the bolt on the battery posts and small enough that the head of the bolt will still clamp down on it.

Get a fuse holder like This and a 10 amp fuse to fit it.

Get some split tubing like This to protect the wiring.

Get some #14 (minimum size) red and black wire.

Splice the fuse holder into the positive side of the power outlet. Splice a piece of red #14 wire on the other end long enough to get to the positive post on the battery. End the wire with a spade lug.

Splice a piece of black #14 wire on the negative side of the power connector. It should be long enough to reach the negative post of the battery. Crimp a spade lug to the battery end of that wire as well.

Push the split tubing over the wires and run them under the tank to the battery.

Loosen the bolt on the negative battery post enough to slide the spade lug under the nut, and tighten it back down. Do the same with the positive battery post.

Job done.

FWIW I never use crimped connections either and solder all my connections. Not everyone can properly solder connections though, and crimped is better than just twisted and taped.

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post #6 of 13 Old 06-22-2010, 06:15 PM
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A lot depends on the crimper you use, as well.

Soldering is better than using a cheapo crimper.

But connections made with a proper crimper are stronger and more reliable than soldered connections. Fast, too!



These crappy things are depressingly common, but completely useless. Might as well use Scotch Loks:



What you want are ratcheting crimpers, like these:



More crimper info:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/St.../diy_page.html

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post #7 of 13 Old 06-22-2010, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCraig View Post
Go by Radio Shack or any good auto parts store. Pick up some wiring terminals like This to go to the battery posts. Make sure the space between the lugs is large enough to get around the bolt on the battery posts and small enough that the head of the bolt will still clamp down on it.

Get a fuse holder like This and a 10 amp fuse to fit it.

Get some split tubing like This to protect the wiring.

Get some #14 (minimum size) red and black wire.

Splice the fuse holder into the positive side of the power outlet. Splice a piece of red #14 wire on the other end long enough to get to the positive post on the battery. End the wire with a spade lug.

Splice a piece of black #14 wire on the negative side of the power connector. It should be long enough to reach the negative post of the battery. Crimp a spade lug to the battery end of that wire as well.

Push the split tubing over the wires and run them under the tank to the battery.

Loosen the bolt on the negative battery post enough to slide the spade lug under the nut, and tighten it back down. Do the same with the positive battery post.

Job done.

FWIW I never use crimped connections either and solder all my connections. Not everyone can properly solder connections though, and crimped is better than just twisted and taped.
What he said Dude knows his stuff! Try to tie the wire runs down to something solid with Zip Ties if you can to take the strain of the weight of the wire off the connectors. If you solder you MUST use electronic solder not plumbing solder. (Rosin core flux solder.) Don't worry if you melt the plastics on the spade lugs, they can be covered with shrink tube or the split tube. +1 for ratcheting crimpers if you go that way.

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post #8 of 13 Old 06-22-2010, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwringer View Post
A lot depends on the crimper you use, as well.

Soldering is better than using a cheapo crimper.

But connections made with a proper crimper are stronger and more reliable than soldered connections. Fast, too!
My problem with crimped connections is not so much the mechanical strength, although poorly-crimped connections have nearly zero mechanical strength, it's that the wire strands oxidize and eventually corrode. Soldering, when done properly, flows between the strands and seals them.

Lead, when you get right down to it, is a lousy conductor with a much higher characteristic resistance than most any other metal. I normally use Radio Shack 2% Silver Solder which has a lower resistance due to the slight silver content but still melts at about the same temperature as lead.

When I use terminals, virtually all the time, I normally crimp them and then solder the crimp.

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post #9 of 13 Old 06-22-2010, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honest bob View Post
What he said Dude knows his stuff! Try to tie the wire runs down to something solid with Zip Ties if you can to take the strain of the weight of the wire off the connectors. If you solder you MUST use electronic solder not plumbing solder. (Rosin core flux solder.) Don't worry if you melt the plastics on the spade lugs, they can be covered with shrink tube or the split tube. +1 for ratcheting crimpers if you go that way.
Been there, done that, smelled the solder for around 45 years or so.

You are right about rosin core solder. Do NOT use acid core solder for wiring. Tried that once to and the results were less than favorable

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post #10 of 13 Old 06-22-2010, 09:09 PM
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"Lead, when you get right down to it, is a lousy conductor with a much higher characteristic resistance than most any other metal. I normally use Radio Shack 2% Silver Solder which has a lower resistance due to the slight silver content but still melts at about the same temperature as lead."

Electronics solder is only 37% lead and 63% tin, silver solder is really unnecessary.
The guy that posted the ratcheting crimpers is spot on, a good crimp is quite reliable.
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