Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Hemet, California, 75 miles SE of LA
For those who still want fork raising tutorial...
There should be some info on the site regarding the process.
Here's a hint for people searching for something on any particular website. Go to google, type "site:" into the search box, immediately followed by the name of the website you want to search, then a space, then type in the keywords. Google will then search only that website for your keywords. Your search on stromtrooper.com for fork raising might look like this, for example:
site:stromtrooper.com raise forks raising forks
In any case, raising the forks is easy. You simply rig up the bike so that the front end can't sag (a center stand is a good starting point), then loosen the clamps that hold the left and right fork in place, then move the fork shafts up in the clamp and re-tighten. Exactly how you raise them, or conversely let the bike sag down and therefore slide the forks upward through the clamps, is up to you. Raising them about 15 mm seems to be the sweet spot.
HOWEVER, if your front end is squirrely, as you say, I would check a lot of other things first.
1. Is the bike squirrely when riding a particular patch of road, such as one with a lot of grooves or cracks in it, or rain grooving? If so, there's nothing wrong with the front end of your bike, that's normal.
2. Next things to check, in this order: wrong tires, worn out tires, wrong tire pressure, incorrect preload on front or rear shocks for your weight, too much weight in rear, something loose with the steering bearings, something wrong or altered with shocks.
If it's none of those things, or you still have a problem after adjusting all of those things, then you may be very sensitive to steering issues, in which case you might want to install a Superbrace or Ricks fork brace, which will tighten up the front end, noticeably for most people.
But I wouldn't start off jacking with raising or lowering the forks. Suzuki engineers know what they're doing, and messing with the steering geometry should only be done when you have enough miles on the bike to know what you're looking for in the fork adjustment, because it will change the way your bike handles under different circumstances, and you want to be sure that's the change you're after.
Last edited by Fellow Traveller; 07-31-2010 at 09:56 AM.
Reason: incorrect heading