Bolt Substitution / Replacement; An Example - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 7 Old 01-29-2010, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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Bolt Substitution / Replacement; An Example

In another thread, (Fender Bolt), I made a comment about the fact that a number of the fastenings on my 2007 DL-650 are slowly being replaced. The stainless steel allen bolts that hold the fairing on to the bike are a soft metal and often the heads strip out. There are other steel, phillips head bolts that seem to easily strip and eventually need replacing.

Recently, I had my swingarm off of my bike to do some bearing maintenance and some other work. Trying to remove the two OEM, phillips head screws from the chain guard proved to be a nearly impossible task. One bolt, I resulted to cutting a "slot" in the head with my Dremel tool, so that I could use a bladed screwdriver to remove the bolt. Its sister bolt I just plain grabbed on to it with a pair of vise-grips and twisted it out of its hole. Both screws had to have been driven into place with an impact wrench at the factory. They were impossible for me to budge without using brute force!

Here are the two "buggered" up OEM, chainguard bolts after removal.


I took them with me to Lowe's and found an appropriate length, metric, hex head bolt, along with a nylon spacer.
Left to Right: OEM bolt, metric hex head bolt, washers, nylon spacers.


In the photograph above, the white, nylon spacer on the left is as I bought it from Lowe's. The one on the right is one of the spacers that had been modified by me; drilled out to the diameter of the new bolt and sanded down to a height to mimic the "shoulder" portion of the OEM bolt.


Here is the modified, nylon spacer inserted into the chain guard.


Here is the chain guard installed with the replacement bolts.

2007 DL-650 (I gave away in 2012 with 111,000 + miles)
"A word grows to a thought; a thought to an idea; an idea to an act. All the pieces are put together, and the whole is yours."
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post #2 of 7 Old 01-29-2010, 09:27 PM
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Simple and cheap (just like me!) I like the idea, and metric bolts are really easy to find in canada. It would give the strom a tougher look in certain areas. I did order a $5 bolt for my fender, and I also found bolt kits for $25-$50 depending on material.

2003 DL 1000
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post #3 of 7 Old 01-29-2010, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoWhee View Post
Simple and cheap (just like me!) I like the idea, and metric bolts are really easy to find in canada. It would give the strom a tougher look in certain areas. I did order a $5 bolt for my fender, and I also found bolt kits for $25-$50 depending on material.
I easily could have re-tapped the holes for SAE threads and grabbed two, stainless steel bolts and washers from work. I have access to a whole bunch of them..... But, I figured that was "cheating" and it wouldn't have been much of an inspiration to other riders to find better solutions then the one I did, (not everyone is going to have a 1/4:20 tap at home.).

Trying to keep it simple and cheap, (as you do!).


B.

2007 DL-650 (I gave away in 2012 with 111,000 + miles)
"A word grows to a thought; a thought to an idea; an idea to an act. All the pieces are put together, and the whole is yours."
1942, Beryl Markham: "West With the Night"
"You can talk about doing a thing until everyone finally talks you out of it, or you can actually do the thing"
James Baldwin "Across Islands and Oceans"
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post #4 of 7 Old 01-30-2010, 06:52 AM
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The initial problem may be that you are using the wrong screwdriver - the screws are not Phillips, but Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS). They have a shallower cross - most common Phillips screwdrivers have a too pointed tip. http://www.katun.com/products/toolsjis.html . The difference can be felt immediately between the two types of screwdrivers when used on a JIS screw.
(I service CT/MRI, and we have to use specified screwdrivers on Japanese built equipment )

DL1000K5

Last edited by msi1259; 01-30-2010 at 07:17 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #5 of 7 Old 01-30-2010, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msi1259 View Post
The initial problem may be that you are using the wrong screwdriver - the screws are not Phillips, but Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS). They have a shallower cross - most common Phillips screwdrivers have a too pointed tip. http://www.katun.com/products/toolsjis.html . The difference can be felt immediately between the two types of screwdrivers when used on a JIS screw.
(I service CT/MRI, and we have to use specified screwdrivers on Japanese built equipment )
You are correct about the use of the incorrect screwdriver.

However, the amount of effort it took to remove these bolts reminded me of trying to remove fastenings from an aluminum mast where a "Never-Sieze" type product had not been used between the dissimilar metals; they were "frozen".

Was this the case? I can't say for sure. But, it truly felt like it. It took more effort then necessary to back the screws out.

2007 DL-650 (I gave away in 2012 with 111,000 + miles)
"A word grows to a thought; a thought to an idea; an idea to an act. All the pieces are put together, and the whole is yours."
1942, Beryl Markham: "West With the Night"
"You can talk about doing a thing until everyone finally talks you out of it, or you can actually do the thing"
James Baldwin "Across Islands and Oceans"
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post #6 of 7 Old 01-30-2010, 09:17 AM
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The chain guard is a piece known to come loose in the past. I've got to wonder if Suzuki's reaction was to use a thread locker.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

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post #7 of 7 Old 01-30-2010, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
The chain guard is a piece known to come loose in the past. I've got to wonder if Suzuki's reaction was to use a thread locker.
Pat, that is a possiblity, and there is a little "goo" on the threads, but it is hard to tell, with my eyes, if it is residual chain lube spin-off, or other cleaning residue.

When the screws finally broke free, it was a "snap" type feeling that I have experienced before when removing a steel fastener from an aluminum mast or spar. I suspect, that is from electrolysis; dissimilar metals coming in contact with each other. That could have been the case here too.

Yes, I did use the wrong screwdriver to try to remove the fasteners, (which didn't help the situation!), but, I really had to "reef" on these bolts with a pair of vise-grips to get them to break free. And again, it was a "snap" and then I could back them out easily. With thread locker, I experience a gradual loosening of a fastener, then pick up speed as the threads back out.

Anyway, the above is how I solved the problem I encountered so that I could handle removal a little better in the future.

B.

2007 DL-650 (I gave away in 2012 with 111,000 + miles)
"A word grows to a thought; a thought to an idea; an idea to an act. All the pieces are put together, and the whole is yours."
1942, Beryl Markham: "West With the Night"
"You can talk about doing a thing until everyone finally talks you out of it, or you can actually do the thing"
James Baldwin "Across Islands and Oceans"
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