crash bars...I need help! - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 12-17-2009, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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crash bars...I need help!

Hi everybody, I don't know if I'm posting in the right side however, I just got a kit of SW-Motech engine crash bars (quite identical to the Suzuki original ones) from e-bay but now I should install it and a have a doubt....the instructions says I should remove the long central bolt that connect the engine to the bike chassyhmy: in order to install the longer one from the kit but I'm a little bit afraid to do so....are we sure that the engine still on place after I removed the original bolt? I tried to do a better check but I can't understand in how many point the engine is fixed to the chassy....anyone that did this operation before could give me an advice on it please? Even just to know exactly how the engine is kept in place on the chassy structure should be enough.

Thank You in advance for your assistance.
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post #2 of 11 Old 12-17-2009, 02:51 PM
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well there is a bit of a lip that still holds the waight of the engine where the bolt goes in I found. Pull the bolt don't worry but do go for the torque specs. Also the OEM crash bars are SW bars, tho are missing a small cross member piece. also note there is a even newer SW crash guard out that's only been out maybe 2 months.
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post #3 of 11 Old 12-17-2009, 03:11 PM
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A boss on #4 and adjuster #7 hold the engine in place. The through bolt fits inside those pieces. When I first put my guard on and was yet unfamiliar with the bike, I had the same concern. After taking off the nut, the bolt moved far too easily to be supporting any weight so I knew it was okay to remove it.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
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post #4 of 11 Old 12-18-2009, 05:52 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, Thank You very much for your advices! Now I can do the job with far less concerns.
Just one last thing about torque specs...the intsructions shows the torque specs for any attaching part included in the kit but about the long central bolt I should use the original nut, do you know how much should I torque it? (from the nut dimension I think the right torque should be between 90 and 110 Nm but I'm not sure).
Thank You again guys!
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post #5 of 11 Old 12-18-2009, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
A boss on #4 and adjuster #7 hold the engine in place. The through bolt fits inside those pieces. When I first put my guard on and was yet unfamiliar with the bike, I had the same concern. After taking off the nut, the bolt moved far too easily to be supporting any weight so I knew it was okay to remove it.
Pat,
#4 interests me. Do you remember this photo? It is the inside face, (against the motor), of the countersprocket. The outside face has not been touched.



Exactly the same thing happened to the new sprocket that I replaced the one above with. Chain alignment is fine. But, the bike has taken goodly beatings and I am wondering if the motor has shifted.

After the holidays, I am going to tear apart the swingarm and pivot arm, (where the rear shock mounts), and replace all of the bearings in those two items. But an "adjusting screw" has got me thinking......

Any thoughts or input would be appreciated.

Thanks,

B.

2007 DL-650 (I gave away in 2012 with 111,000 + miles)
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post #6 of 11 Old 12-18-2009, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by venega View Post
I think the right torque should be between 90 and 110 Nm but I'm not sure.
It is 93 Nm. Also be careful with the smaller bolts on the other arm. The English manual specifies 25.5 lb-ft or 35 Nm but that is wrong. It should be 16.5lb-ft or 23 Nm.

Black Lab,

There is only an adjuster on the left side for torquing purposes. It will not affect the engine position. The fixed boss on the right side can if it has a casting flaw though.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html
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post #7 of 11 Old 12-18-2009, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
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Black Lab,

There is only an adjuster on the left side for torquing purposes. It will not affect the engine position. The fixed boss on the right side can if it has a casting flaw though.
Okay. It's for torquing the motor against the boss.

Then, my thinking goes back to the swingarm for the cause.

Thanks.

B.

2007 DL-650 (I gave away in 2012 with 111,000 + miles)
"A word grows to a thought; a thought to an idea; an idea to an act. All the pieces are put together, and the whole is yours."
1942, Beryl Markham: "West With the Night"
"You can talk about doing a thing until everyone finally talks you out of it, or you can actually do the thing"
James Baldwin "Across Islands and Oceans"
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post #8 of 11 Old 12-18-2009, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
It is 93 Nm. Also be careful with the smaller bolts on the other arm. The English manual specifies 25.5 lb-ft or 35 Nm but that is wrong. It should be 16.5lb-ft or 23 Nm.
though.
OK. on smaller bolts SW-Motech instructions shows 23 Nm, so your advice is absolutely right.

Thanks.
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post #9 of 11 Old 12-21-2009, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by venega View Post
OK. on smaller bolts SW-Motech instructions shows 23 Nm, so your advice is absolutely right.

Thanks.
Well duhhh, it came from Greywolf !

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post #10 of 11 Old 12-21-2009, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Black Lab View Post
Okay. It's for torquing the motor against the boss.

Then, my thinking goes back to the swingarm for the cause.

Thanks.

B.
Heh Black Lab; 9&10 look like they would also have some effect on the engine if not torqued too. Let us know what you find in the swingarm.

ADVENTURE, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder.
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