I found a ratty set of calipers for cheap on eBay. I ordered a seal and piston rebuild kit from Ron Ayers. I got the brackets, Galfer HH pads, and Galfer braided hoses from SV Racing (here on the board).
Once I got the calipers, I set about tearing them down and cleaning them. I used compressed air to drive the old pistons out of the bores. A T-40 torx head is needed to take out the caliper bolts that divide the calipers into halves. I headed to my local Fastenal store to get new stainless cap head bolts for replacements. All 8 capscrews needed for the calipers totaled about $5 which is the price Suzuki wants for one of their fancy torx head screws that will rust. I also replaced the screws that hold the brake pad shield over the top of the caliper.
I drilled the caliper mounting bolts for safety wire so there would never be any threadlocker to chase out of the threads in the future.
When cleaning the calipers for rebuild, it is wise to take a dental pick and make sure the upper side of both seal grooves in each bore is clean, pay particular attention to the upper seal. Lots of junk hides just out of sight and needs to be cleaned out before reassembly. I also use a cheap Harbor Freight stainless steel brush to scrub off any residue or junk from the calipers. I probably went through 6 cans of cheap spray brake cleaner as well. Per my father's teaching, I wash all parts in denatured alcohol to remove any chance for oil from my skin fouling things up (who knows if this is really necessary, but it sure smells good!). Once washed, I dunked the seals in fresh DOT4 brake fluid. I smeared a layer of fresh fluid on the inside of the bore and then put in the seals. Next, dip the new pistons in fluid and carefully press them into the bores.
Then I sprayed everything with brake cleaner and set about masking up the machined surfaces that cannot be painted. It takes about 20 minutes per caliper half at my speed working with painters tape and a fine razor knife. I threaded old bolts into holes, made tape "funnels" to fit into others, and then hung the calipers for painting. I used Duplicolor red brake caliper spray paint (about $7 a can at most auto parts stores). Don't believe the coverage listed on the can's label, it took me nearly two cans, giving each part three coatings.
To reveal the "Tokico" text wasn't too tricky as I have access to one of those Chinese mill/lathe combo machines. I mounted a 2" diameter surface sander to the mill and blocked up the caliper half on the cross-slide. I was able to sand off the paint without hitting any other part of the caliper. You could do this on a drill press. I doubt I could have done this by hand (I tried mocking up a piece of sandpaper on a flat bench, but I couldn't hold the caliper steady enough to push it across the paper without rocking over and scratching the sides).
Once the paint had set, I reassembled the calipers, remembering the new o-ring that goes between the halves prior to tightening the screws to 24 n-m.
I removed the old calipers and hoses, making sure to drain the system before disconnecting the lines so fluid wouldn't get on the paint. One of those hand squeezed vacuum pumps works great for this. I put the new brackets onto the forks and used medium strength thread-locker and tightened those bolts to ~26 n-m (whatever the factory manual recommended). Then I mounted the calipers and safety wired the bolts for ease of future removal for tire changes.
The hardest part was getting the dual Galfer banjo fittings to seal at the master cylinder! Galfer recommends 17-25 ft-lbs, and even at 25 ft-lbs torque, my system leaked. I had to hand tighten the system to probably twice that amount to get everything to seal. I had no problems with the banjo fittings sealing at the calipers. It took a while to get all the air pumped and sucked out of the new calipers, but after a bit I was able to get a very firm brake lever.
I took the bike out for a spin to bed in the pads. I forgot how HH pads sound on ventilated rotors, but that familiar "WHIRR" sound lets you know you have some serious brakes. By the third firm stop I was doing stoppies and compressing the front fork to within 1" of the lower triple clamp.
This job took me two weekends of cleaning, painting, and assembling (after I ordered and received all the parts). I don't work too fast, so others may do this more quickly. I also replaced the rear pads with HH compound, but I haven't done the rear brake line conversion to braided yet. My DL1000 now stops like my 600 track bike.
I'd rate this job as a full 4 beers out of a six-pack and not for the true beginner. If you have been turning the wrenches on your bike for a while, you should be able to tackle it.
Here's a picture of the final installation: