First Look: ROX¯s NEW Pro-Offset Elite block risers - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 18 Old 07-10-2009, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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First Look: ROX’s NEW Pro-Offset Elite block risers

I hope this isn’t too over the top. I wanted to be the first for once to describe a product to this forum and wanted to do a detailed job of it.

The reviews of ROX Pivoting risers I’ve read have been favorable so I wanted to give ROX a try. From the photos on their site, they seem to produce a quality, well finished product. (Unlike some of the cruder risers out there.) I like their Pivoting Risers, plenty of V-Strom owners use them and are happy with them but I’m anal about having slack in my cables and 2” risers seem to stretch the stock brake line to the limit on the DL650. (My hat's off to ROX for their Patented pivot design. I’ve gone through the patent process several times, PITA.) I couldn’t find anyone that reviewed ROX’s NEW Pro-Offset Elite block risers, I like the look of them better than some of the others so I figured I’d be the guinea pig. (Hey I’m new here and get to be first at something!)

At 6’3” I don’t have any problems reaching the bars while sitting upright, but several people have posted that moving the bars up and back resolves the issue of the intense pain I get in my trapezius muscles (upper back, neck and between shoulder blades.) I’ve tried adjusting my posture while riding, relaxing my shoulders, also stretching and working out my trapezius muscles, with no improvement. Giving it more time might improve things, but I’d rather be on the bike than in the gym.

These new risers are 7/8” up and 1-1/8” back which if I remember my trig, brings them about 1.4” on the diagonal. Assuming I’d have set the pivoting risers at about the same angle, this saves me 0.6” of play in my cables. Cool! The offset is the same as similar SW-MOTECH risers but for less money. Similar GenMar risers are 1.7” along the diagonal and are a tad more expensive.

I took a number of photos during my install, sorry a few are a little fuzzy. It was raining or getting dark every time I tried to start this task and the flash over powered the close in shots. Of course if I had ridden straight home from work, it might have been a bit lighter out. Sorry they turned out so large, I was working on my netbook and they didn't appear so big when I uploaded them. At least you can really see the detail.

Before you pick up a wrench, get a feel for the existing play in the hoses and cables. Take some photos to help remind you. It will be too late latter when you are wondering how much play there was in that hose or cable. (Don’t ask me how I know.) You’ll want to assure your self that all hoses and cables have plenty of play in them. Note that this install is on a non ABS Wee. If you have a Vee or ABS Wee, you will need to adjust accordingly.

Note that I didn’t time my installation, I had a lot of time out for photos. My time end to end was around 2 hours.

For those of you who read the last chapter of a book first or live by the motto “life’s short, eat dessert first” here’s a sneak peak at the installed product.

Before you open the package, break loose the front brake holder that’s up the forks above the front fender. This is a pain in the butt, but you will need the slack. Better to do it first than wait till latter when the cable is stretched tight. Here you have to remove a bolt for the bracket and then break loose the rubber mount from the cable. It’s siliconed in place at the rubber block and at the bottom end of the sleeve and remove the wire tie. Just keep trying to break it loose until you can slide it down the brake line. When you go to put this back together, spray some WD-40 on the rubber block or use KY jelly or something. Otherwise you probably won’t be able to push it back in the bracket.

Taking a photo up under the fairing over the fender probably wouldn't come out too good so here's a line drawing from the parts manual. The bolt (#7) and bracket (#4) I'm talking about are in the box. The rubber block you have to break loose from the silicon is at the top of the seleeve (#3) but it looks like #3 is the whole brake line. Well pretend #3 is just that lower sleeve portion that covers the actual brake line.

Ok, time for a look at the product.

Nice professional packaging, not marked Made in China. It should be marked Made in Minnesota.

Here’s what ye git. (There are YouTube videos of guys opening the packaging of new products, I felt that was way over the top for this.)

The risers are fairly hefty, so I verified their heftiness on my scale.

I could have scanned the documentation, but was lazy and used the camera. It did pretty well. Note the 60 day return policy, pretty generous. There’s a flat $10 repackaging fee if you’ve opened the package and read the documentation and don’t scratch the heck out of the product during an aborted install or in return shipping. I didn’t notice this policy on their web page, but it’s probably there some place. If not Ryan Jensen at ROX may see this and get it added.

Ryan was a nice guy to talk to when I asked him about this product. He’s still saving his pennies for a V-Strom. Turns out his BD is the day after mine (plus 20 years.)

There isn’t much in the way of instructions, no step by step with diagrams. I admit some info would be too bike specific to try to cover all applications and the rest is pretty straight forward. If you have a V-Strom, this guide should provide more detail than you need. What is provided is important and comprehensive.

In this photo I wanted to show the nubs on the sleeves and the dimples in the mounts that keep the sleeves from rotating in the mount.

One last bit of advertising for ROX, that is a sticker they give you. I didn't check to see if it's reflective (hint, hint Ryan if you're reading this.)

A close up of the quality of the machining and the interior serrations in the sleeves. The serrations also help keep the sleeves and bars from rotating in the mount when everything is tightened up. Note that all the sleeves are identical, you don’t have to worry about left/right/upper/lower. Good job ROX! (Of course that’s also cheaper for them.) You do have to worry about left/right riser mounting if you want the logos to show to the outside.

Nice finish work even on interior surfaces. No sharp edges.

Let's get going with the install.

Use tape on the 4 decorative plastic chrome buttons to remove them and not drop them down inside the fairing requiring significant time to retrieve (don’t ask me how I know). Use sharp knife to pop off the buttons, a Pampered Chief scraper won’t do it. I did use the Pampered Chief scraper to protect the upper mount clamp from scratching when prying with the knife. Don’t let your significant other see you return a Pampered Chief scraper to the kitchen after having had it in the garage and don’t let her see you with "the" good mattress pad protecting your gas tank.

Take care when removing stock bolts as there are lock washers that will drop into the same place inside your fairing as the decorative buttons (don’t ask me how I know).

Can’t reuse the factory bolts as they are too long (far left & stock clamp). ROX might have saved a few cents by boring the holes in the risers deeper so you could reuse, but the holes might have had to go clean through the risers. Much nicer the way they did it. Bolts provided (center left) penetrate the same depth as the factory bolts.

The mounting slot gets hidden under the bars, it’s how they make this set fit a variety of applications. More on this later. I put the upper bolts (those not in slots) in first. Note I didn’t use any Loctite at this point as I didn’t quite know how things would turn out.

A 6mm hex key wrench is needed, the same as for mounting many engine guards. I torqued the SS bolts to about 16.5 ft/lbs, same as my Givi Crash bar bolts.

Other risers specifically for the V-Strom fill the gap in the original mount. (Sorry about the focus.) Not possible with this multi-application product. I thought this would bug me, it did till I felt the difference in the bar location.

Both mounts in place, awaiting bottom sleeves. I Don’t know if the stock lock washers should be reused. Not sure if the lock washers do any good in the slot. Slot seems a bit longer than needed, it could accommodate narrower handle bars. Are there narrower handle bars? I was hoping the bolt would contact the full end of the slot and have contact between the mount and 75% or so of the bolt head. I feel like there should be a little square washer under the head of this one bolt for a little more solid mounting. Not that I can feel any play in the mounting mind you. Just the engineer in me.

Someone ask for bottom sleeves? There are some serrations on the handlebars to interlock with those in the sleeves (but that’s a later photo.)

Again, my apologies for the fuzziness, here I show the bar serrations (pre existing) and the alignment in the mount. Left edge of right mount aligns with left end of serrations. Do this and the reverse will be true for the left mount and the bars will be centered. (Took another photo but it was way too fuzzy.)

Top sleeves in place, figure out which is right/left mount clamp.

At this point you will have the opportunity to adjust the bars up and down a little, then torque down the bolts. I didn’t take a photo, too hard to hold my beam torque wrench and the camera in the low light. I didn’t use any Loctite since I wasn’t sure of my bar positioning yet. I will add Loctite after I find the sweet spot.

The view from the rider’s seat. The risers look great from the rider’s view, not as “factory” as the pivots from the side view. I thought I’d be anal and not like the fact that the bars need the extra sleeve for these particular risers. After installation, they didn’t seem to bother me at all.

Top down close up.

A left side angle shot for your viewing pleasure.

Right profile. Note that there is a gap between the mount and mount clamp. Don’t try to wrench them all the way together, it would require over torquing the bolts.

Finally, a fuzzy foto fru my filthy GIVI windscreen.

The biggest issue I had (besides digging around for the lost decorative buttons) was that the throttle cables had the propensity to hang up on the portion of the frame that the fairing mounts to. I can’t get a decent photo of this, but look down along the ignition lock and see the square shoulders on the frame.

Looking down inside the fairing along the front brake line, I used a white wire tie to fasten the throttle cables to the brake line. This was necessary as I found in a hard right turn, the throttle cables were hanging up on the shoulder of the frame member that supports the fairing. This photo shows the location of the wire tie.

This fuzzier photo shows the shoulder a little better. There is a sharp shoulder right above the white wire tie. I’ll change the wire tie to a black one now that I’ve determined a good placement and ya’ll have seen it.

So far I’ve commuted to work twice with the risers installed, it’s 25 miles one way. My upper back/shoulders do seem to feel better, but I have yet to declare it a 100% solution. I wouldn’t have believed such a small amount of change in the bars would be noticeable. I have some long rides planned for this weekend and will update this post. I’m also turning the big 49 on Sunday. I’d love to be able to swap them for the pivoting version to see the difference in installation and feel, but I guess that’s another paycheck after I’ve run out of other farkles to buy. I have a fork brace and mirror extenders to install next (after helping a bud install his kitchen cabinets.)

I hope someone finds this helpful, I’ve spent way more time on this than I had ever planned.

1) I've commuted 3 times (25 miles each way) and ridden to a friend's house (45 min away) and back and gone on a 3.5 hour ride that had a break at McD's. Every ride was better because of the risers. I can't say that my problem is entirely gone and I want to note that I do everything I can to streatch, relax and change riding position enroute. But I feel my back situation is greatly improved.

2) They've now been on the bike for a few weeks and I have to admit, I think they were a great help.

Previous ride: Orange Wee Club #34

Last edited by Mercenary; 07-22-2009 at 10:48 AM.
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post #2 of 18 Old 07-10-2009, 05:13 PM
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Very interesting. Thanks. I have your exact problem (6'4') with the upper back and shoulders. I very much look forward to your pronouncements after a longer ride.

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post #3 of 18 Old 07-17-2009, 11:14 PM
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I use these risers on my 2009 ABS Wee. I extended the brake line as it was too tight for my comfort. These risers made a big difference comfort wise. The new brake line I purchased did not route quite as nicely as the OEM line. The OEM line has bends that make routing much much better.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Risers (Large).jpg (89.9 KB, 167 views)
File Type: jpg OEMhose (Large).jpg (96.2 KB, 133 views)
File Type: jpg Routing (Large).jpg (79.4 KB, 117 views)

[SIZE="2"]2009 ABS DL650[/SIZE]
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post #4 of 18 Old 08-03-2009, 11:02 AM
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Not over the top Mercenary. I can only imagine how much time it would take, but, you will probably save some time for hundreds of others. And in turn you will save time reading their reports and reports that will be inspired by this one. Excellent job, I'm going to try this now as I too did not like the idea of stressing the cables etc. Bob...

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post #5 of 18 Old 03-01-2010, 09:30 PM
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Pro-Offset Block Risers vs. Pro-Offset Elite Block Riser

In your article you mention you are reviewing the Pro-Offset Elite block risers but the pics show the Pro-Offset block Riser. Is there any difference? I looked on the site and they appear to be two different products.
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post #6 of 18 Old 03-02-2010, 12:48 PM
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Is there an advantage over these blocks versus the pivoting risers?
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post #7 of 18 Old 03-02-2010, 08:48 PM
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Looks like the Elite risers have much more adjustability?

2005 Wee-Strom, Givi crash bars & bags, Xp Hornet, Stebel horn, Cee Bailey Perfect Strom Windscreen, Mega Tube, ROX Risers, Grip puppies, Super Brace, Euro Guardian skid plate, Alaska Butt Pad, Mad Stad bracket, Eastern Beaver electrical goodies, Admore lighting, and more...
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post #8 of 18 Old 03-02-2010, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by WooDan View Post
In your article you mention you are reviewing the Pro-Offset Elite block risers but the pics show the Pro-Offset block Riser. Is there any difference? I looked on the site and they appear to be two different products.
The only difference between the "Elite" and the "non-Elite" are those spacers that allow both 7/8" and 1-1/8" bars to be used. The "non-Elite" version only allow 7/8" bars. Note the spacers in the OP's images...these are the "Elite" model.

Originally Posted by Wee_V_in_Calgary View Post
Is there an advantage over these blocks versus the pivoting risers?
The main difference is that the "block" risers don't give you the infinite adjustment options and the 2+ inches of rise. So if you want less rise and don't need so many "options" the block risers are a solid way to go.
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post #9 of 18 Old 03-02-2010, 11:40 PM
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But aren't the same price as the adjustable ones?

Originally Posted by kugeln View Post
The only difference between the "Elite" and the "non-Elite" are those spacers that allow both 7/8" and 1-1/8" bars to be used. The "non-Elite" version only allow 7/8" bars. Note the spacers in the OP's images...these are the "Elite" model.

The main difference is that the "block" risers don't give you the infinite adjustment options and the 2+ inches of rise. So if you want less rise and don't need so many "options" the block risers are a solid way to go.
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post #10 of 18 Old 03-03-2010, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Wee_V_in_Calgary View Post
But aren't the same price as the adjustable ones?

Yep. I'd say that's where personal preference comes into play. The block risers are 1" up & 1" back and solid. Whereas the pivoting risers are 2" in just about any direction.

In my particular case, I didn't want to have a full 2" of rise, and the OP wanted to maintain as much slack in his brake hoses as possible. So the solid block risers fit the bill.
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