Handle Bar Questions due to jewel numbness - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
V-Strom Modifications and Performance The brag page, good and bad.

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post #1 of 10 Old 03-08-2018, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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Handle Bar Questions due to jewel numbness

I've read and searched around, and I'm not finding my specific issue. The bar issue that is, I found plenty of posts about numbness and other discomforts.

I have a new-ish to me 2006 Vee (K6) that had quite a few farkles installed by the PO.

One's a Pro Taper Contour ATV Low with universal mount. Lemme know if you can't see the pics, though they mainly prove that I can read the giant labels on my handlebar.











The PO said this upgrade was meant to provide more forward lean. Mission accomplished, and I'm normally a fan, but I'm coming from one of the most comfortable and versatile seats in the history of motorcycling, a 1981 Suzuki GS850. The old Suzuki is also a lot lower and longer. In contrast, I find being pitched forward on the Vee's seat to be uncomfortable at about 30 miles and torture at 100+ miles. I mostly commute, but a 200+ mile ride this past weekend convinced me to look into this further.

It's clear the seat's meant for sitting upright, and I find that when I'm comfortably sitting up (on the center stand) with my butt in the seat, my hand hits the grips about at the second knuckle. To me, that suggests bring the bars back an inch or two or up and back an inch.

Here's where I get discombobulated - cause the Pro Taper Contours have the oversized clamp area.

So, I can't just buy a standard "up-and-back" riser and I haven't seen a Pro Taper up-and-back riser. I'm used to the cheap $20 bars on the old UJM, but unlike that scenario I don't want to fiddle with too many tries buying a $60-70 bar, so I'm getting some feedback. I also like the Pro Taper, which is to say, I haven't noticed it aside from the numb crotch, so I think it's strong, handles nice, and looks good while keeping the controls from dangling.

I got these specs off another thread -
Pro-Taper SE Bend, Width, Height, Pull Back
ATV Low Bend, 32.00", 5.50", 3.30" (What I have)
ATV Mid Bend, 32.00", 5.90", 3.00"
ATV High Bend, 32.00", 6.30", 3.94" (the one I'm considering)

Off hand, I'm thinking I might do well with the ATV High. Looks to be almost an inch higher and about a half inch back. I know it's a popular mod on these bikes, but do you guys think it'll do what I'm wanting and tip me back so my butt's in the seat? If I like the feel of the current bars, will the extra sweep bug me? Thanks for any input!

DL1000 K6
Purchased in 2017 with following mods already in place:
Regeared (-1F, +1R), PC-V and secondary butterflies removed,
2 Brothers Exhaust, SuperBrace, Spacer mod for rear,
4-piston GSX-R Front brake calipers, braided stainless lines,
aftermarket seat, USB Charging port.

Last edited by roostabunny; 03-08-2018 at 05:12 PM.
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post #2 of 10 Old 03-08-2018, 07:30 PM
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I changed the stock bars on my 2010 650 for the Pro Taper MID ATV seven-eights.

They are 3" or so wider, but Pro Taper have put convenient markings on the bar so that they can easily be narrowed.
More important still, they also have less bend to keep your elbows out so are a longer stretch forward.

Put another way, I found the pro Taper mid to be the same height as the OEM V-Strom but wider and with less pull-back.
If you are looking to bring the grips back to you I would recommend a different bar.

Your best option (without going back to 7/8" bar clamps) is to look past Pro Taper ATV as surely they all designed to have the same effective grip angle, but higher. Fat bars are for a predominantly dirt bike market and therefore the bends are mostly patterned for an elbow out riding style. In my opinion stock bars and clamps would be more likely to achieve what you are looking for.

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post #3 of 10 Old 03-08-2018, 09:01 PM
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Try this;

Motorcycle Ergonomics

Plug in the known rider info, then under "vehicle customization" plug in the handlebar numbers you think you will like and see what lean angle the rider has...and I think you are on the right track with the ATV High Bend.

Fantastic 'app' right?

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post #4 of 10 Old 03-08-2018, 09:12 PM
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I have the Pro Taper Seven Eighths (SE) ATV Highs on a 2006 Wee. They were 32" wide and I cut a half inch off each end. Everything fits. I did loosen up some slack in the wiring as some were a tad snug. I find them a lot more comfortable than the OEM.

2020 Eastern V-Strom Rally (website) - May 14 - 17, 2020
__________________________________
2006 Suzuki V-Strom DL650K
1986 Honda Shadow VT700C
1974 Suzuki TM-250
1966 Triumph Bonneville T-120R
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post #5 of 10 Old 03-09-2018, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brockie View Post
I changed the stock bars on my 2010 650 for the Pro Taper MID ATV seven-eights.

They are 3" or so wider, but Pro Taper have put convenient markings on the bar so that they can easily be narrowed.
More important still, they also have less bend to keep your elbows out so are a longer stretch forward.

Put another way, I found the pro Taper mid to be the same height as the OEM V-Strom but wider and with less pull-back.
If you are looking to bring the grips back to you I would recommend a different bar.

Your best option (without going back to 7/8" bar clamps) is to look past Pro Taper ATV as surely they all designed to have the same effective grip angle, but higher. Fat bars are for a predominantly dirt bike market and therefore the bends are mostly patterned for an elbow out riding style. In my opinion stock bars and clamps would be more likely to achieve what you are looking for.
I appreciate this, I figure there's some theory but it's hard to dig through the try-it-and-see tip pages. Course, it always comes down to try-it-and-see, but you get what I mean.

One of my thoughts was that I could get a little extra variability in reach by rotating the bars. I've done that some on my old UJM, and the taller ATV high would certainly move the grips back more with a small rotation, but I wonder about odd wrist angles.

You know what it may be? I've got very little off-road experience and never owned a dirt bike. Well, a future project Trail 70, but that's not the same thing. I'll bet rotating bars (and odd wrist angles) are a bigger deal in that standy-uppy world, and the Vee kinda splits the difference.

DL1000 K6
Purchased in 2017 with following mods already in place:
Regeared (-1F, +1R), PC-V and secondary butterflies removed,
2 Brothers Exhaust, SuperBrace, Spacer mod for rear,
4-piston GSX-R Front brake calipers, braided stainless lines,
aftermarket seat, USB Charging port.
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post #6 of 10 Old 03-09-2018, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motor7 View Post
Try this;

Motorcycle Ergonomics

Plug in the known rider info, then under "vehicle customization" plug in the handlebar numbers you think you will like and see what lean angle the rider has...and I think you are on the right track with the ATV High Bend.

Fantastic 'app' right?
This is very cool. I've seen it before, but never played with it. Are the default positions based on the specs of the stock bars? If so, I'm thinking I can approximate my "default" position by just doing the math on the stock bar specs compared to the one I have.

DL1000 K6
Purchased in 2017 with following mods already in place:
Regeared (-1F, +1R), PC-V and secondary butterflies removed,
2 Brothers Exhaust, SuperBrace, Spacer mod for rear,
4-piston GSX-R Front brake calipers, braided stainless lines,
aftermarket seat, USB Charging port.
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post #7 of 10 Old 03-09-2018, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stalky Tracker View Post
I have the Pro Taper Seven Eighths (SE) ATV Highs on a 2006 Wee. They were 32" wide and I cut a half inch off each end. Everything fits. I did loosen up some slack in the wiring as some were a tad snug. I find them a lot more comfortable than the OEM.
This is the simplest path in my mind, and I never thought about making them narrower. That seems like it'd be more like what I'm used to on the UJM, and possibly a good fit for my 90% road use.

Project's growing, as they always do, lol. I mean, I'm not crazy about the big flange on the Oury grips that came with the bike, so those may go, and, and, and...


DL1000 K6
Purchased in 2017 with following mods already in place:
Regeared (-1F, +1R), PC-V and secondary butterflies removed,
2 Brothers Exhaust, SuperBrace, Spacer mod for rear,
4-piston GSX-R Front brake calipers, braided stainless lines,
aftermarket seat, USB Charging port.
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post #8 of 10 Old 03-09-2018, 10:16 AM
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I have the 2 inch Rox Risers and EVO Adventure High bars on my Wee. Pushes the bar back for me.


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2014 650 Strom
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post #9 of 10 Old 03-09-2018, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stalky Tracker View Post
I have the Pro Taper Seven Eighths (SE) ATV Highs on a 2006 Wee. They were 32" wide and I cut a half inch off each end. Everything fits. I did loosen up some slack in the wiring as some were a tad snug. I find them a lot more comfortable than the OEM.
I forgot to mention that Tusk and MSR also make very similar dimensioned SE ATV bars from what I hear. They are steel, I believe, and a lot cheaper. Some folks here, I forget who, were quite high on them. Maybe they'll see this and chime in as I have no personal experience with them.
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2020 Eastern V-Strom Rally (website) - May 14 - 17, 2020
__________________________________
2006 Suzuki V-Strom DL650K
1986 Honda Shadow VT700C
1974 Suzuki TM-250
1966 Triumph Bonneville T-120R
1965 Suzuki 80
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post #10 of 10 Old 03-09-2018, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roostabunny View Post
This is very cool. I've seen it before, but never played with it. Are the default positions based on the specs of the stock bars? If so, I'm thinking I can approximate my "default" position by just doing the math on the stock bar specs compared to the one I have.
You know, I am not sure, but I would think they are since they show you a initial lean degree without any input.
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