pvc fork spacer - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 18 Old 10-14-2008, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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pvc fork spacer

So I had a Kawasaki ZR7. One of the things that alot of people did to stiffen the front was to add a pvc spacer that was longer than the stock one. I have looked through the forum and I could not find if anyone has done this to the strom as the lone temp fix for the problem.

The other question is this. I look at the top of the forks and I can not tell if the preload is all the way down. The center piece with the slot in it sticks up about 3/8 of an inch.

Thanks
Al
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post #2 of 18 Old 10-14-2008, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawial View Post
So I had a Kawasaki ZR7. One of the things that alot of people did to stiffen the front was to add a pvc spacer that was longer than the stock one. I have looked through the forum and I could not find if anyone has done this to the strom as the lone temp fix for the problem.

The other question is this. I look at the top of the forks and I can not tell if the preload is all the way down. The center piece with the slot in it sticks up about 3/8 of an inch.

Thanks
Al
The screw preload on the front forks has rings around it. If you're seeing any rings, then the preload is not maxed out.

Something to realize about "stiffening" the front is that adding a longer PVC spacer, or increasing the pre-load with the adjuster does not make the front any stiffer. It only raises the ride height.

If you want a stiffer front end, you need stiffer springs.

Here's sonic's web site LINK

Do some searching around here. There are plenty of threads about upgrading your fork spings, and how to calculate which spring you need based on your weight. Also many threads about setting proper sag once you've got the springs installed.



There's a bit more to it than just dumping longer spacers in and hoping for the best.
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post #3 of 18 Old 10-14-2008, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Good to know. Ill check out some of the other threads. The last thing I need is a taller bike since I am 5'6".
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post #4 of 18 Old 10-15-2008, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by kawial View Post
... ... ... add a pvc spacer that was longer than the stock one.
EZer fix than that is to simply add mach. washers under end cap.
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post #5 of 18 Old 11-01-2008, 01:27 AM
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Actually,, if you pull out your old springs, cut about 2 to 3 inches off of them, then make a PVC spacer that is 2 or 3 inches longer than the stock one (depending on how much spring you cut out) you will have stiffer springs. Cut the spring from the tigher coiled end since stock springs are progressive, then heat the last coil with a propane torch and push it flat. A little work with the grinder will finish the job. clean it good, reinstall with some fresh oil, and enjoy stiffer spring without throwing away $100 to someone else.

How it works. by cutting the spring you reduce the number of active coils. the fewer active coils, the more force is spread out amoung the remaining coils, coils only get stiff because of torque, fewer coils, same torque equals stiffer spring.

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post #6 of 18 Old 11-08-2008, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by KShow View Post
Actually,, if you pull out your old springs, cut about 2 to 3 inches off of them, then make a PVC spacer that is 2 or 3 inches longer than the stock one (depending on how much spring you cut out) you will have stiffer springs. Cut the spring from the tigher coiled end since stock springs are progressive, then heat the last coil with a propane torch and push it flat. A little work with the grinder will finish the job. clean it good, reinstall with some fresh oil, and enjoy stiffer spring without throwing away $100 to someone else.

How it works. by cutting the spring you reduce the number of active coils. the fewer active coils, the more force is spread out amoung the remaining coils, coils only get stiff because of torque, fewer coils, same torque equals stiffer spring.
I'm not sure that's correct.
The stock springs take 0.7kg to compress one cm, untill the bottom out (ignoring the progressive aspect).
Since the PVC spacer won't compress, the rest of the spring still will take 0.7kg/cm to compress. It will, however, bottom out 2-3 inches sooner. I don't see that as an improvement.

When considering the progressive aspect, it makes a bit more sense. Say the spring is .6 low and .8 high. If you chop off half the spring from the low end, you'll get .8 springs--and half the fork travel. That's a hell of a lot sacrifice for a gain of .1 kg/cm.
With only 2 inches, you're not going to see any noticeable gain.



(Unless I'm wrong)
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post #7 of 18 Old 11-11-2008, 10:26 AM
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Cutting of the spring does increase the spring rate, fer sure!

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post #8 of 18 Old 11-11-2008, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Skippii View Post
I'm not sure that's correct.
The stock springs take 0.7kg to compress one cm, untill the bottom out (ignoring the progressive aspect).
Since the PVC spacer won't compress, the rest of the spring still will take 0.7kg/cm to compress. It will, however, bottom out 2-3 inches sooner. I don't see that as an improvement.

When considering the progressive aspect, it makes a bit more sense. Say the spring is .6 low and .8 high. If you chop off half the spring from the low end, you'll get .8 springs--and half the fork travel. That's a hell of a lot sacrifice for a gain of .1 kg/cm.
With only 2 inches, you're not going to see any noticeable gain.



(Unless I'm wrong)

Think of it like this..

You've got a spring that has 10 coils. When you put 100 lbs on the spring each coil compresses 1/10th of an inch compressing the entire spring 1 inch.
So your spring rate is 100lbs/inch

Cut 5 coils off the spring. Now when you put 100lbs on the spring each coil is still compressing 1/10th of an inch, but now the entire spring is only compressed 1/2 an inch. To get the 1 inch of travel you have to add 100lbs more weight, so now the spring rate for your shorter spring is 200lb/inch. The shorter spring is a stiffer spring.

You can only cut a spring down so much before it coil binds at or before full compression. So, be sure to measure all the gaps in the spring and add them up. If you've got more distance in the gaps including however much pre-load you put on the spring to get correct sag, than you have in suspension travel, you are good to go.
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post #9 of 18 Old 12-12-2008, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippii View Post
I'm not sure that's correct.
The stock springs take 0.7kg to compress one cm, untill the bottom out (ignoring the progressive aspect).
Since the PVC spacer won't compress, the rest of the spring still will take 0.7kg/cm to compress. It will, however, bottom out 2-3 inches sooner. I don't see that as an improvement.

When considering the progressive aspect, it makes a bit more sense. Say the spring is .6 low and .8 high. If you chop off half the spring from the low end, you'll get .8 springs--and half the fork travel. That's a hell of a lot sacrifice for a gain of .1 kg/cm.
With only 2 inches, you're not going to see any noticeable gain.

(Unless I'm wrong)
Cutting the springs do stiffen the ride. I know because I cut mine. But even after cutting they are not stiff enough. I will be installing a set of Sonic 1.0 kg/cm.
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post #10 of 18 Old 12-13-2008, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramps View Post
It only raises the ride height.
The springs are housed in a fixed, length tube. Adjusting pre-load on the front does not adjust the height. But, adjusting the pre-load on the rear does.

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