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Racetech emulators

3K views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  bill l 
#1 ·
I'm in the mood to "farkle" and have been eyeballing these emulators. Here's my dilemma: I have my bike fully Wilbered, fork springs and shock, and really have no problem with it. But as one supplier puts it "The best you've ridden is the best you know". I know most people add springs, emulators and heavier oil at the same time so judging what change caused what is difficult at best. So my question is, has anyone resprung their bike and much later added the emulators? Was there a real improvement? I've already ordered an extended 6mm impact hex here:
http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/40289/nm/3_8_Drive_Impact_Hex_Drivers
and it will fit on my impact driver (hammer type) but I'm back on the fence again. I mean, I could screw up a good thing at worst or waste a lot of time and money at best if there's not much to gain. Anyone? Thx - Bill
 
#2 ·
Drilling out the damper rod and installing the emulators should help with hard bumps. The damper rod causes too much compression damping when the rebound damping is correct. Cartridges have spring actuated valves that open on compression and close on rebound strokes. Since you would be changing the damping system entirely, you may have to change oil weights for the best fit for your weight and riding style. The difference between what you have now and stock is bigger than the difference between what you have now and adding emulators. Noticeable improvement will pretty much only be for sharp edged bumps.
 
#3 ·
I have "resprung" my front end and was very happy with it. I Also added a Superbrace at the same time. I feel that this is a "must do" performance and safety upgrade for a DL-650.

Several thousand miles after I did this upgrade, I hit a rock while riding in Canada that gave me a rear tire flat and took out my rear shock. The front end felt sort of funny too, but couldn't tell if the front end was actually in need of repair or I was just feeling the rear end "telegraph" through to the front.

I took apart the front end to check it to clear my head of concerns. While doing so, I decided to add the emulators to "get the best ride that I could." I have now ridden the bike several more thousand miles with the emulators installed.

Here is my personal opinion based upon my personal experience influenced by my riding style and where I ride; they have not made enough of a significant difference to merit the cost of me purchasing them and installing them. I would agree with Greywolf that the only (very slight) edge they may have over a stock setup is on "sharp, edged bumps."

The emulators may be a great improvement for a race bike. They may be a great improvement for a DL-1000. They also may be a great improvement over someone else's DL-650. I am not going to stand up and hoot and holler about their great improvement on my bike.

To dial them in, is a tricky process. To make the necessary "final adjustments" to the valves, you will need to remove the OEM fork caps, remove your fork springs, with mechanical fingers, (or like device), reach down through your fork oil and snag the emulator at the bottom of the tube and lift it out of the tube. Next, you will need to turn the screw on top of the valve either clockwise or counterclockwise a 1/4 turn to make your adjustment, then reinsert everything back in the tube. Does that sound like a messy job? Does it seem like you will lose some oil in that process? How much oil? How much oil do you add back in? What if you need to tweak the valves again? Do it all over......

If I were racing a bike competitively, you better believe that I would go through any kind of process to gain an edge, including using Race Tech emulators. If I were commuting everyday in an urban area, battling it out on highways in deep traffic, yes, I would install the emulators.

Running back roads and dirt roads here in New England and Canada, with and without the emulators, I have found no significant difference worth the cost of the product and time it takes for installation, (which isn't really that difficult to do.).

I guess that is more then my .02 worth.

Barry B.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the thoughts. My rebound damping may be light with the 7.5 wt recommended with the Wilbers Progressive springs (or is it dual rate?) since the recommended wt with emulators is 15. My "big hit" damping is OK. I'm thinking I'll get my rebound damping where it should be without stiffening the compression damping by upping the viscosity and adding emulators. It's looking like the proper way to adjust the emulators would be to find the right wt oil for the rebound (making it track better) and then adjust the emulator for compression damping (controlling dive and ride quality). It should mean an improvement in handling. I don't mind pulling the forks and re-doing it all. That's fairly easy.
 
#5 ·
I should have noted the following for you just for a baseline comparison: 183lbs with all of my gear on. 12.5 wt oil, (50/50 mix of 10w + 15w oil), .90 Sonic Springs.

I will be pulling apart my front end to replace seals, (right one is leaking), and while there, I will be replacing "guide / slide" metals. I will also fiddle around with the emulators.

In adjusting the emulators, you don't have to pull the forks out of the bike. You keep the forks in the bike and just remove the fork cap and work down through the tube.

I think it would be a lot of extra effort to remove the whole front end assembly just to adjust the emulators. But, it would probably be a cleaner way to do it.
 
#6 ·
thanks for the write up barry. i added the sonic springs and superbrace along with a scotts steering damper. great back road combo. i thought about the emulators, but for the price i'll pass on the emulators. i know you do a lot of riding, so i think of your opinion is paramount in my decision not to buy them.
 
#7 ·
It worked!

I installed the emulators yesterday. After much research I went straight rate springs (Racetech .95kgm), one and 3/4 turns out on the emulators and 15 wt oil. I weigh 177. All these changes had to do something and fortunately it is all good. I set the sag and took her out for a 64 mile twisty jaunt. The ride is plush yet firm, dive is noticeably reduced, hard hits are now just bumps and holding a line is second nature. No minuses.
Just a note on breaking loose the damper rod bolts:
A hammer type impact driver did not work. With the forks still on the bike and clamped in the Murph's brace it was a simple matter of leverage (breaker bar). It was a mental touch-and-go whether the bolt would break loose or strip or the hex would snap but in the end I went for it and the bolts both broke loose.
 
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