Next question, is it hard on a Rectifier/Regulator for the output voltage to drop? Would that be somewhat like the strain on a battery if the voltage is drawn down? In other words, if the R/R output voltage drops a volt or more to say 13.5V, is that stressing the R/R? Or is that as easy for the R/R as less water is in a pipe for a plumbing system?
You are trying to lump three electronic terms into one and it doesn't work like that.
VOLTAGE - Electromotive force, or effectively electrical "Pressure". Compare it to the pressure of water in a water system.
CURRENT - The flow of electrons through a conductor, measured in Amperes (or Amps). Compare this to the actual water that is moving through a pipe. How much water depends on the size of the pipe and how much pressure is behind it.
WATTS - DC circuits only since AC circuits are slightly different. The product of Volts and Amps (Voltage x Amps = Watts; 12 Volts x 10 Amps = 120 Watts). In a water analogy, the amount of time it would take to fill a bucket with water based on the pressure and volume of flow.
Additionally there are two components of the R/R. The alternator generates multi-phase AC. The RECTIFIER section converts that from alternating current (AC) into direct current (DC) which the battery can use. AC flows in both directions whereas DC flows in one direction, and storage batteries can only handle DC. Note that these are CURRENT values, not voltage.
The faster the alternator spins the higher the voltage of the electricity that it generates. At zero speed the electrical output is, obviously, zero. At higher speeds the voltage (not the current) can exceed the limits of the electrical system. The REGULATOR limits the high voltage to what they system can handle. High voltages can destroy the battery and other electronic components.
Any time current is flowing heat is generated. More current equals more heat. The conductors on the R/R, as well as the circuitry itself, are generally designed to handle the maximum amount of current that the alternator can produce without time limitations. They will get HOT but normally will not fail up to the rated value. Generally speaking as long as you don't overload the charging system you should be OK.
Honda had a problem for several years with some of their R/R components. They would fail under normal circumstances without any aftermarket electrical loads installed. In fact some people were switching them out for Suzuki components. Early CBR and VFR models were (and still "Are" since many of them are still on the street) notorious for blowing R/R components simply because they overheated.