Handlebars Moose racing CR HI - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 4 Old 03-27-2008, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
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Handlebars Moose racing CR HI

I have been thinking about some new bars. Here is my old set up:





As you can see, stock bars... Rox 2" risers. It made the cables / hoses just a little too tight at full lock, especially the clutch hyraulic line.

I I wanted it to be just a tad lower, and lose just a tad of the sweep (how much the outside of the bars come back).

I thought about Moose ATV HI and Moose CR HI. I chose Moose because they are cheap, they are 7/8" for less mod's and they are at my local motorcycle shop. With the ATV's I would have removed the Rox risers and just had the bars. However, the ATV's had a lot of sweep (or pull back, like stock), so I opted for the CR HI bars. Lower but less pull back.



Here are the Moose racing CR HI bars compared to the stockers. I don't know how easy it is to tell, but the stockers are taller than the Moose bars, and the stockers also have more pull back. I tried to make the photo as clear as possible... sorry if it didn't turn out.



Here is how you do it. It wasn't hard. I am slow and it took me an hour or so.

Drape a crappy old towel over the tank and fairings.

Remove the bar ends using a Phillips head screw driver, don't unscrew until you get the screw out... the little nut on the inside will fall into the bars, instead... just unscrew enough to get the barend to wiggle out.

Remove the clutch/brake controls with an 8MM socket or wrench (before you do this note the orientation of the controls, maybe take a photo if you have a lousy memory. After you remove them let the set on the towel or hang down the sides. To bolts each.

Remove the switch housings with a Phillips head screw driver, two screws each. Notice the holes in the bars when the housings are removed. Notice the bumps in the inner part of the housing too. This is how the switch housings keep from spinning. You have two choices on the new bars, drill holes, or file the knobs of the housings. I recommend holes.

Remove the left grip, take WD40 or chain lube and shove the straw in there really well, shoot some lube in there, work it around, pull and peel etc. The grip is adhesived on there. It will come off.

Remove the throttle grip and throttle. I thought this would be a little hard. It was super easy. Use a 4mm allen wrench on the back side of the throttle (towards the front of the bike) losen both allen heads just a touch. Turn the bars all the way to the left, slide the throttle off the end of the bar.

Now every thing should be off the bars. Remove the bars. I have Rox risers, so I have to use a strange 3/16ths allen wrench... you likely need a 4mm or 6mm allen.

Now start to reverse assemble.

When you first put the bars on, make them loose enough to turn. Spend a few minutes on the bike making sure you like the angle. Then walk a way for a few minutes and then come back for a few minutes. Are you sure you like the angle?

Replace throttle first, make sure it is in enough so that when the barend is put on later that it will not interfere with the throttle operation.

Then the stop switch housing. Look for a minute to see how it should be. Scratch the bar with a scratch awl where you are going to drill the bar. Use a 3/16ths drill bit. Wipe the chips away and get some paint on the hole (it is steel and will rust.)

Controls. Barend. Right side done.

Left side. Clean out the grip, get all the WD off it. Use some spray adhesive, slide the grip on, wipe up the extra adhesive... you used too much (but use too much anyway). Switch housing, scratch, drill, paint, replace. Controls, barend.

Done. Sit and enjoy. Put on the gear and go for a test ride.

Finished product:



After a short ride, I like everything accept for the longer reach. These bars are shorter than stock bars and I would not recommend them unless you have bar risers. Even with the risers, I miss the added height.

I like the look. I like the feeling of more direct input. I like the much reduced sweep. I like the quality of the bars.

I don't like the extended reach. I don't like the cheap pad cover that comes with it, I left it off.

If I don't get used to it in a few days, I will try the ATV hi bars without the ROXs. I'll let you know.

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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post #2 of 4 Old 03-28-2008, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quema View Post
After a short ride, I like everything accept for the longer reach. These bars are shorter than stock bars and I would not recommend them unless you have bar risers. Even with the risers, I miss the added height.
I have a similar setup, Moose CR bars but I bought up and back risers to bring the bars within a comfortable reach.

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post #3 of 4 Old 03-28-2008, 06:59 PM
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After a short ride, I like everything accept for the longer reach. These bars are shorter than stock bars and I would not recommend them unless you have bar risers. Even with the risers, I miss the added height.

I like the look. I like the feeling of more direct input. I like the much reduced sweep. I like the quality of the bars.

I don't like the extended reach. I don't like the cheap pad cover that comes with it, I left it off.

If I don't get used to it in a few days, I will try the ATV hi bars without the ROXs. I'll let you know.

Quema, I feel your pain, literally I installed the ATV mids and really like the angle of the grip and the look. But, like yours, the reach was too far for me even with the up and back risers. So, I went and bought an ATV Hi bar. It will not work with my up and back risers due to throttle cable lenghts which is a dissapointment. But the height is good and it is a better bar than stock. I'm going to ride it for a while and see how it goes.
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post #4 of 4 Old 04-02-2008, 06:49 PM
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I went with Pro-taper atv hi with no risers or anything and am happy.They are close to stock hight, but a little straighter.No cable issues or anything.You might check out the handlbar comparison on this website
http://11109.rapidforum.com/

06 DL650,red,of course.
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