Heat Controller - but, which one? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 8 Old 11-05-2013, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Heat Controller - but, which one?

Hey all - I've got those Aerostich heated grip wraps, and while they are incredibly convenient (I get to leave be, my favorite grips, yet have heat when I need it), these suckers get seriously HOTTTT! I find myself turning the switch on/off a lot while riding.

I checked online at buying heat controllers, but for the price, I could just as easily buy a brand new electric grips kit w/ included heat controller. Sure, I could do that, but I kinda like my existing non-heated grips. Anyone know of a very affordable controller that isn't ridiculously priced? Thanks!

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post #2 of 8 Old 11-05-2013, 11:28 AM
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There are some posts about using controllers not specifically made for heated gear. I have concerns about using them in the areas of waterproofing, mounting and longevity though I don't have good enough knowledge of them to say anything more definitive. I've seen plenty of posts about failed controllers on grips with controllers included.

I've been willing to pay more for quality and longevity. If I'm riding in cold weather and need heat, reliability is #1 on my list of what's important. Warm & Safe, the Home of the Warmest Clothing in the Universe is the inventor of the solid state time segment variable motorcycle heated gear controller. Reports of problems with them are very rare. Gerbings are pretty much copies of the design and also work very well. Spread the cost of a controller that will work reliably for years to come over those years and a cheap controller comes out as false economy.

Rheostat type controllers waste power into resistance heat that is lost to the controlling device and are poor choices. The Gerbing and W&S contollers turn the power on full for a segment of each second. Half power means full on for 1/2 second out of every second and almost all power goes into heating the gear being worn.

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post #3 of 8 Old 11-05-2013, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Something like this might fit the bill.........70 bux only!

"Side effects may include: Mild kidney explosions...Testicular cranberrying... And Rectal hallucinations."
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post #4 of 8 Old 11-05-2013, 05:12 PM
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You can use a DC motor controller that is rated for at least 30W.

Like GW said, you can get some cheap ones out there, but where you put it is going to make a difference.

I have a small box under my seat with a $10 controller, the rheostat is on my PWM shelf, and the heated gear connectors are on the side fairing strip. All are easily removable with connectors. I have pics, let me know if interested or want more details.

Mine puts out between 0 and 4 amps at 14V from min to max setting. 2 amps is enough to make me sweat with my DIY vest.

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post #5 of 8 Old 11-09-2013, 09:14 PM
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This is the $10 troller I am using. I got two, and just realized I only need one, as my gloves have a built-in troller.

Downside is that you need to swap the red & white wires, as they work backwards as shown. I have the rheostat up front on my dash while the troller is under the seat in a box.



1995 Honda CB750 - sold
2005 Honda Rebel -sold
1990 Honda PC800 -sold
2007 DL650 - sold
2011 DL650A - current
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post #6 of 8 Old 11-09-2013, 09:34 PM
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$4 shipped for the 12V 8A LED controller from eBay. Tape it up for waterproofing and it will be fine.

-Tom (DL650AL2) (KA1TOX) (E-I-E-I-O)

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post #7 of 8 Old 11-10-2013, 01:54 PM
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Just installed an $8 dollar DC motor controller from amazon for my grips. Put it an aluminum project box from Frys mounted inside the fairing. It hasn't been very cold here in Austin, but a quick test seems to show it works fine-time will tell.

Mike


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post #8 of 8 Old 11-10-2013, 02:19 PM
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Whatever you do, get one that uses PWM (pulse width modulation) to control how much 'juice' the heated gear get. It is the most efficient.

As others have said, a DC motor control is a good choice. Almost all of them (maybe all of them) use PWM to control the output. My Gerbing controller is top notch. It is pricey though. If it broke, I would replace it with a DC motor controller.

See http://whiskeytangohotel.com/gpi
to build your own V-Strom GPI and save, save, save!
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