Pat Walsh Stebel Horn Bracket Does Not Fit - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 17 Old 05-25-2007, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Pat Walsh Stebel Horn Bracket Does Not Fit

I ordered a Stebel horn from Murph's last week and it came quick. I also ordered a horn wiring kit from Eastern Beaver which includes the relay and should make wiring up the Stebel a snap. The last decision was where to mount it.

I saw that most people mounted the Stebel on the side of the motor, lower radiator bolt, or crash bars. I really didn't want it hanging out in the breeze....it's not that ugly but I thought from a protection standpoint, inside the front fairing would be a better spot. I found threads where people used hose clamps or even zip ties to mount the horn inside the fairing but Yiannis gave me a link to a new Pat Walsh Stebel horn bracket that mounts the horn securely inside the fairing and out harms way. I ordered one up from Pat Walsh and got it in about 5 days.

When I got the Stebel horn mount I could not understand how the horn would mount to the bracket and still be able to bolt to the fairing brace. The directions didn't really explain how to bolt the bracket to the horn other than to say using the 6mm bolt - install mounting bracket to horn. I sent Pat an email with some pictures and he said I had mounted the bracket to the side of the horn mount - not the hole through the top - that is where it is supposed to go.

This is where the problem started because my Stebel does not have a hole through the top. There is a slot there but no hole to accept a 6mm bolt. I sent Pat a few more pictures and he said "maybe you got a different horn" and to drill a hole where the slot is. I don't like the idea of drilling a hole through the aluminum there because I fear it would be too thin after doing this. I sent Pat another email expressing my concern that drilling wouldn't be an option.

I still can't find any pictures of a Stebel with a hole in the top to accept a 6mm bolt. Pat said his Stebel was only 6 weeks old. I asked if he would consider redesigning the bracket to allow it to bolt to the exsisting Stebel bolt location but he said "We have quite a few brackets already made and yours is the first one I have heard of that hasn't worked. Be that as it may - I will need to see another horn like yours to design another bracket - will gladly do so but this may not get done immediately as we are very busy this time of year." I guess all I can do at this point is get a full refund but I wanted to know if any of you have a Stebel horn with a hole in the top or can shed some light on this confusion.

This picture shows where I bolted the bracket to.





This is Pat's mounted with a bolt going through the top.



This is the top of my Stebel with a slot but no mounting hole.

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post #2 of 17 Old 05-25-2007, 01:23 PM
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My Stebel looks just like yours with the mounting bolt on the side, slot on top.
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post #3 of 17 Old 05-25-2007, 02:24 PM
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Yours is the same as mine, RD.

BTW, +1 on the easternbeaver harness . . . Jim makes a high quality product that makes electrical mods a piece o' cake.

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Last edited by whistler; 05-25-2007 at 02:29 PM. Reason: content
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post #4 of 17 Old 05-25-2007, 03:15 PM
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Mine too. Just got it a month or six weeks ago. BTW hose clamp (bottom) and a couple of heavy zip ties (top) to the fairing brace work just fine.
Kent
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post #5 of 17 Old 08-10-2007, 01:11 PM
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I just installed mine yesterday (Pat Walsh bracket and Stebel Nautilus airhorn) and had no issues, except for mounting the bracket backwards the first time:



Here's the bracket alone:



Notice in the top image, the bend in the bracket is away from the horn. You want it the other way so that it is facing the horn and the nut is to the outside of the bike.

You do not need to drill any holes, as you will see in the picture, you are using the Nautilus stock mounting position, bolt, and plastic block that came with the horn.


Here's a walk-through of the entire install -

The hardest part is getting the fairing off, particularly if you have the Givi engine guards installed. First, remove the eight push-pin style rivets that hold the front (black) cowling on. The way to do this is to use a small screwdriver and push the center pin in ONE click, as shown:



This will let the pin "unspread" in the hole for removal. Don't lose the center pins as they will drop out on the floor, rolling under the nearest heavy, fixed object.

Next, remove the philips head bolts at the front of the cowling in the upper outside corners.



Remove the 4mm hex cap bolts at the top rear of the tank and along the sides of the left and right fairing. You need to remove the right side as well to get to the horn leads, which is behind the radiator. With the front cowling loose, you can get to the two philips screws (one on each side of the bike) that hold the front of each plastic fairing in place. Your V-Strom should now look like this:



Note where my finger is pointed - that is the brace behind the left headlight that you will be attaching the horn mount to.

Next, take your horn with the mounting bracket already attached (but loose, finger tight) and fit it around the headlamp brace. Insert the carriage bolt from the back, and install the lock nut (lock nut towards the outside of the bike). Begin to tighten the nut so that it is firm, but you can still "wiggle" it a bit on the brace. tighten the horn to the bracket the same way. It should now look like this:



Now you may want to test fit replacing the left fairing. You'll probably find that you are going to have to wiggle the horn around a bit. I actually needed to "twist" the bracket downwards a bit and push inwards about 1/2" for it to clear the fairing, but it does fit. Once you have it about right, tighten down all the nuts. It should now be looking like this from a 3/4 view:




WIRING:

I won't go into the schematics as those are covered in other posts (hey, use the search). Now you will need to remove the upper and lower radiator mount bolts (10mm wrench). Slide the radiator off it's mounting pin and you should be able to get your hand in there between the rear of the radiator and the fan shroud and pull the horn power leads from the stock horn.
Once that's done, remove the connector from the fan shroud. It's the whitish-yellow connector that is held to the shroud with a plastic pin base. Squeeze it and push it through the shroud. Now you can unclip the horn lead from the bike to make it easier to cut and crimp new connectors on. (Sorry, no pics of that).

Once you have your wiring run from your auxiliary fuse box (you DO have a fuse box, right?)



Run it to your 40A relay. I put the relay right on top of the fan shroud and secured with zip ties:



Don't forget to reattach the radiator bolts, then you are ready to button everything up. It's pretty much simply the reverse of how you took everything off from here. Hope this helps!

-David
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post #6 of 17 Old 08-11-2007, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guardian View Post
I just installed mine yesterday (Pat Walsh bracket and Stebel Nautilus airhorn) and had no issues, except for mounting the bracket backwards the first time:
-David
Nice photos and explanation. I was hoping I'd find something like this. I'll be installing my newly purchased Blue Seas fuse box and Stebel horn this afternoon.

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Farkles: Emgo mirrors, T-Bags magnetic tank bag, MadStad w/ Givi windshield, Stebel airhorn w/ Pat Walsh, Blue Seas fuse box, RAM camera mount, Garmin Zumo 550, Givi E460 top w/ LED brake light, Givi E21 sides, Acerbis hand guards, Dynojet PCIII, Superbrace, Pazzo shorty levers, Hot Grips, Elka rear shock, Richland Rick Mirror Extenders, Custom Saddlemen Seat, Murph's Center Stand
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post #7 of 17 Old 08-11-2007, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guardian View Post

Here's the bracket alone:

Very nice write up David! The bracket that Pat sent you was redesigned from the version that I was unable to use.
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post #8 of 17 Old 08-14-2007, 10:11 PM
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Thumbs up

Glad this writeup helped. Another thing I just thought of, for safety, make sure you have plenty of clearance between the bracket to horn bolt and the left hand fork tube - if you push the Nautilus in too far (trying to make room for the fairing) it gets REAL close to the fork tube. I'd recomend at least 1/4" clearance and make sure the mounting bolts are all tight and everything is snug before you button it back up. It would suck to have the horn shift and suddenly find you can't turn left.
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post #9 of 17 Old 01-03-2008, 08:50 PM
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I just finished the Stebel install on a K7 650 using the Pat Walsh bracket. Took me 6 hours as it was the first time I've taken the fairing off, plus I had to make the wiring from a package of raw wires and connectors that came with the horn.

One comment ... I believe the Stebel could be installed on the front sub frame without taking the fairing off. I had to make some adjutments after everthing was buttoned up, and it's easy to get to the bracket and horn nuts from above. In fact, I think it's easier from above. Not sure if I could have gotten the horn out however, with the fairing on.

Thanks to all who have posted here about this installation. I reviewed most posts before starting the job. Also, was amazed at how quick the Pat Walsh bracket arrived.

Indecision is the key to flexibility.
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post #10 of 17 Old 02-18-2008, 10:19 PM
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Mount Stebel right vs left side

Is there a reason people mount the stebel on the left side. I have the Pat Walsh bracket and following these excellent instructions (especially about removing the faring. I never would have found that last screw in the upper corner until I broke it!!)
With the stebel on the left, the part where the sound comes out points directly at the fairing, where as if it mounts on the right it would point into the open space.

[B][I][U][SIZE=3]Lew[/SIZE][/U][/I][/B]
04 DL650
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