SW-Motech crashbar install ? - Stromtrooper Forum : Suzuki V-Strom Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 10 Old 04-13-2007, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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SW-Motech crashbar install ?

Hi all: Just received my SW-Motech crashbars. Looked through the parts and "instructions". Looks straight forward enough except for these points:

What order should I remove/install bolts?

Is the "long" bolt supplied with the bars the same or better grade steel than the OEM part?

Do I need to support and engine when removing the "long" bolt? Will there be any shifting of parts when the bolts are removed?

Any other tips appreciated! Thanks, Chris.

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post #2 of 10 Old 04-13-2007, 09:49 AM
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Order doesn't matter. You can take out every bolt at once if you want and the engine won't budge. The through bolt is contained by larger adjusters that hold the engine in place. Use a pipe on the wrench to loosen the nut if necessary but once the nut is off the bolt can be removed with two fingers. The new large bolt is just longer than the original, not stronger. Use the required amount of large washers to keep the guard from touching the frame at the large bolt attachment area. Blue loctite on fasteners is a good idea.

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post #3 of 10 Old 04-13-2007, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
Use the required amount of large washers to keep the guard from touching the frame at the large bolt attachment area. Blue loctite on fasteners is a good idea.
Can you define "amount" and "large". Should I use stainless, or is mild steel OK? Have you had and dissimilar metal electrolysis take place?

Chris

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post #4 of 10 Old 04-13-2007, 11:26 AM
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I have had some corossion on some of the bolting but seem to thing it may be contributued to humidity, road salt and the like. The frame on the strom is a floating ground, meaning it is not grounded therefore if you should do any electrical upgrades always ground to the battery or your fuse block.

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post #5 of 10 Old 04-13-2007, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmosentine View Post
Can you define "amount" and "large". Should I use stainless, or is mild steel OK? Have you had and dissimilar metal electrolysis take place?

Chris
Amount=0, 1, 2 or 3. Large means the washers that fit over the bolt that goes through the engine. They come with the kit. You don't have to buy them. If the guard touches the frame because the supplied spacer isn't long enough (the usual scenario) add enough washers on each side for the guard to clear the frame. The guard should be tight against the spacer or washer, not the frame. The frame is grounded. It should not be used to ground electrical items though.

Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
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post #6 of 10 Old 04-16-2007, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
.... add enough washers on each side for the guard to clear the frame. The guard should be tight against the spacer or washer, not the frame. The frame is grounded. It should not be used to ground electrical items though.
I'm sure this will make perfect sense once I begin the install, but when you say frame do mean the "frame other than the mounting points?

Chris

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post #7 of 10 Old 04-16-2007, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmosentine View Post
I'm sure this will make perfect sense once I begin the install, but when you say frame do mean the "frame other than the mounting points?

Chris
Yes. The spacer rests against the large adjuster collar inside a large hole in the V shaped aluminum frame member. If the guard touches the V shaped frame member, the tab will be stressed. Use the washer(s) supplied to make sure the guard only touches the spacer or washer, not the V member. Hold off on more questions until you actually try it. You're starting to obsess on a very simple job. If you still aren't sure when you are actually doing the job, then ask.


Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. I didn't quite make it to 17,000 miles on the 2012 DL650A.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 DL1000s. Vee2=2014-2016 DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 DL650s. Glee = 2012-2016 DL650s
See https://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...nicknames.html

Please vote in the poll on what Strom(s) you have at https://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-you-have.html

Last edited by greywolf; 04-16-2007 at 10:50 AM.
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post #8 of 10 Old 04-16-2007, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
Hold off on more questions until you actually try it. You're starting to obsess on a very simple job. If you still aren't sure when you are actually doing the job, then ask.

I be quiet now. Thanks, Chris.

[U]Chris Mosentine [/U]
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Previous - 2006 Suzuki DL1000, 1993 Kawasaki VN750, Suzuki DL350, 1976 Yamaha DT400, 1977 Honda XR75.

Last edited by cmosentine; 04-16-2007 at 12:07 PM.
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post #9 of 10 Old 04-18-2007, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Just an update and THANKS

After much hand wringing I installed the crashbars today. The entire job took me 45 minutes, and that was with getting the middle lower spacers reversed (left/right). I had no issue with the bars contacting the frame and therefore did not need to add any spacers.

The only thing that surprised me was the new "long" bolt was too long. It could have been 1/2 inch shorter. I now have to consider cutting some of this off.

Thanks to everyone for your assistance, Chris

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post #10 of 10 Old 04-19-2007, 05:57 AM
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I noticed the same thing. No spacer/washer issues, but the new bolt does stick out about 1/2 inch too far. I imagine this is so there's room to add spacers/washers if need be, but mine didn't need it.

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