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Discussion Starter #1
Just ordered a new Zumo 550 today to replace/augment our old Garmin GPS V. Found the zumo at gpsonsale.com for $669.99, best price I've found so far. Wife said to order it for our anniversary this month, gotta love her. The GPS V has worked for us for several years, but as a unit for the car/motorhome it needs an upgrade in it's map base (we're finding new roads that aren't on the old map base) and it is slow to write new screens as your location moves.
So I've been telling the wife about all the neat things the zumo does and the increased memory and availability of SD cards for even more memory and after this last weekend trip to Southern Cal we wound up on some roads that were outside the regions I preloaded into the V that were small enough not to be on the built in base map she said buy the new one. Yea. Plan to keep the old V for hand held uses, geocaching etc. I'll write a review after I've had the zumo for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Got the zumo in just a few days from Onsale.com. Brand new in box just as advertised. Still reading the manual. Doing the install on the bike today.
Will post pictures asap.
 

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There is a new firmware on the Garmin web site that adds a lot of nice features. Still no promised fix that allows you to turn off the auto rerouting but this looks like an update that is worth doing. It also includes the time zone fix so your clock will not be one hour off for three weeks a year.
 

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Zumo 550

Just got the new zumo 550 . Brand new in box just as advertised. Doing the install on the bike today - look pefect . Tested in a mountin roads ....runs perfect , just a litle problems vith setings ..which road to avoid ..
Will post pictures !
 

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Very nice info Billy, can you tell us more about your wife? Just kidding! That is a great wiring detail, I just ordered an APX-1 from stich and a relay, so you diagram will be handy. Lets us know if all the firmware in the ZUmo is unlocked and if you have the city streets map. I am kicking aroung the 476c from garmin only because i understand its all unlocked. Keep us posted and I will send you some links for your new GPS I think you will like, they are on my laptop, so it'll be tomorrow at work.
I think your wife got that for you so you can't use that lame excuse anymore...sorry i'm late I got lost!
 

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something about Wireing on V-strom

Basic Strom Wiring 101 (DL1000 & DL650)

1. Any wire that is solid Orange or Orange with a color strip is a Switched 12 Volt wire. Switched 12 Volt means the wire is HOT when the key is ON.

2. Any wire that is Black with a White strip is a Ground wire. You will find many small rectangular connectors with 5 or 6 Black/White wires running into them around the bike. These are ground connection terminals and do not plug into anything. Don’t use these as grounding points for accessories.

3. Best places to obtain Switched 12 Volt power for an Auxiliary Fuse Block Relay.

A. OEM heated grip connector. Located behind radiator on left side & usually taped to the main harness. A Black connector with 2 wires going to it. Orange/Green wire is Hot and Black/White is Ground. If you do not want to cut this connector, then order Suzuki part no. 36852-06G00. This is the horn lead wire and the connector will mate.

B. Instrument Panel Power wires. Located inside left side cowling in wire pocket. Must remove cowling panel and strip part of harness cover off for wire access. Either the Orange/Red or the Orange/Green wire will do.

C. Any of the Orange (or striped Orange) wires under the OEM fuse box. You can just detach and pull the fuse box up to gain access.

D. Tail Light wire. This is the Brown wire running in the tail harness along the left rear subframe. After the tail harness connector (located at the rear of the subframe) it is the Green wire. Note: This wire is HOT when the key is in the Park position. This is good to use if you what to run accessories without having the ignition on. But, if in park for an emergency and using emergency flashers your accessories will be energized.

4. Tail Section wire colors. First listed color will be as it is in the tail harness running along the left rear subframe. The Second color is after the connector located at the rear end of the subframe (this is the part that actually connects to the lights).

A. Tail Light – Brown & then Green
B. Stop Light – White/Black & then White/Black
C. Left Turn – Black & then Black
D. Right Turn – Light Green & then Light Green
E. License - Brown & then Green (Same as Tail)







5. Other wires that may be of use.

A. Tachometer signal – Brown/Black wire in main harness running through left side cowling (needed for Cruise Control).
B. Speed signal from Speed Sensor – Pink/White wire in main harness running through left side cowling (needed for Cruise Control).
C. Blinker signal (power) to control switch. Light Blue wire located under OEM fuse box.
D. Gear Position Sensor signal (going to ECU) – Pink wire in 3 wire connector just forward of fuse box.

6. Grounding point for accessories. All ground leads should run back to the battery negative terminal. Either directly or through an Aux Grounding block or Aux Fuse Block that also contains grounding terminals. The Ground Block, whichever kind, should be connected to the battery negative terminal with a 10 gage or 12 gage wire. One last method for a ground buss if you don’t wish to use blocks, is to have a short 10 gage lead running from the battery to which you solder all of the smaller ground leads from accessories and cover with tape or shrink tubing.

7. How to install a Manual Fan Override switch. Attach a 2 position (On/Off) toggle or rocker switch across the 2 wires running into the thermostatic fan switch (both Black/Red), located on the rear-right side of the radiator. Do not cut wires from the thermostatic switch or the auto fan mode will be disabled.

8. Wiring Auxiliary Driving lights. Most come with a lighting relay and a relay must be used. Use at least 16 gage (14 gage is better) wire for both power & ground leads. An On/Off switch, High beam or Low beam, may latch the relay. Hot lead must be fused whether coming directly from the battery or through an Aux fuse box.

9. Wiring Auxiliary Horns. It is highly recommended to use a horn or lighting relay for power to the horns. This relay should be latched using the wires that feed the OEM horn. Use at least 16 gage (14 gage is better) wire for both power & ground leads. Hot lead must be fused whether coming directly from the battery or through an Aux fuse box.

10. Strom Wattage Available. This is at 5000 RPM, at idle and slow speeds, considerably less.

02 DL1000 = ~95 watts to play with
03 & Up DL1000 = ~ 145 watts to play with
All DL650 = ~ 125 watts to play with

11. Fuse Sizing for auxiliary equipment. A device is fused properly when the fuse rating is 150% of the max the fused device will draw. Example: Vest using 45 watts: I=P/E; I=45/12.5=3.6 amps. So 150% = 5.4 amps, a 5 amp fuse should be close enough. A lot of devices have an initial surge startup current that is higher than their steady state draw. Also a fuse that is operated very close to it's rated value can heat up over time and blow.

12. Connector & wire connections.

A. Connectors. The best way to connect wires to pins for inserting into connector plugs & sockets is to use the correct crimper for the pins you are using. This is an inexpensive CRIMPER that works for about 95% of the pins out there. Pins can also be soldered if you use the proper equipment and techniques. Incorrect technique can result in broken wires. For most of the people out there it is best to crimp.

B. Connecting wires. I do not recommend any crimp style connectors for wires. Especially the crimp on wire splices. These wire splices will cut some strains of the wire and let the contaminates in. Wire connections & splices that are soldered and covered with either shrink tubing or a good grade of electrical tape, such as 3M Super 33+, will stand up to the weather and vibrations many times longer then crimp style connectors. Soldered connections will also produce a cleaner (as in not electrical noisy) electrical connection with less voltage drop. This is a good HOW TO SOLDER web site. It doesn't talk about wiring here but the technique is the same.

C. The use of dielectric grease on all non water-resistant connectors is recommended.
 

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Rjsurfer
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A quick question on the Garmin's, why would you want to disable auto-routing?

If you went of course how would it update your course to get you back on track?

Ron W.
 

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A quick question on the Garmin's, why would you want to disable auto-routing?

If you went of course how would it update your course to get you back on track?

Ron W.
Because sometimes I am just pulling over to get gas or stop at a motel and can easily find my way back to the road I was on. If I do get lost and need to get back on route I then manually have it reroute me.

Rerouting will change your route even if you have put via points in the route. I have found this very difficult to explain but if you have a 500 mile route you created in Mapsource on your PC and then load it into the GPSR if the GPSR recalculates the route you will see that often it will not take all the same roads.

It does all depend on how you use your GPSR. If you are just trying to get from point A to point B the auto-rerouting will not bother you. If you spend hours picking out the perfect roads to ride on your PC the auto-rerouting is something you will want to turn off.
 

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Rjsurfer
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Torqueman,

That's exactly what happens to mine ! I could never understand why the routes would change whenever I loaded them to the 2610 EVEN WITH WAYPOINTS !!! I guess the 2610 would do the auto-recalculate blowing my selected route out of the water.

That has been driving me nuts for awhile now, and I guess sometimes it didn't need to do a recalculate and it would work fine, I never could figure out why.

Is that something Garmin could fix?

Thanks

Ron W.
 

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Ron,

The only easy fix is to turn the auto-rerouting off. I know with the 2610 you can do that but I am not sure where the menu item is for that model.

I have also learned to add more waypoints but there are some pitfalls with adding too many waypoints. The best technique is to turn off the auto-rerouting.

I really want the Zumo for the custom points of interest. It just kills me that the Zumo line is part of the Streepilot series but does not allow you to turn auto-rerouting off. There is a work around listed in one of the Zumo forums. It has to do with creating the route in Mapsource then having Mapsource reroute it then adding waypoints to bring it back to where you wanted to go. Keep repeating until rerouting makes no changes. I have not tried that but may do some experimenting with SP III. It just sounds like a big PITA.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
On the auto rerouting issue, I set a route in map source on the PC and transfered it to the zumo. As I rode I purposely turned off the route and eventually the zumo rerouted automatically. I continued on my off route course and several miles later came to one of the roads on my original route, when this happened the zumo recognized me as being back on the route and left the rest of the route the same as I had set it.
When I came to an intersection that would have been 20 miles shorter to my final destination than my original route the zumo did not change that portion, it left the remainder of the route as I originally set it.
Haven't had time to try it on a long trip, this route was only about 100 miles, the zumo seemed to return to the original set route once I returned to a road that had been part of the original route even after making several wrong turns and the zumo recalculated twice.
With just this experience with the zumo I'm thinking the auto rerouting isn't that big of a problem as long as you can find your way back to a road that was part of your original route. I usually have a paper map along on longer rides so I should be able to find my way back on route and have the zumo pick up my original route once it recognizes that portion of the route.
 

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tac3, the Zumo works the same way as all the other Streetpilot series models. The difference is all the other models you can turn off auto-rerouting or have it prompt you and defaults to no if you do nothing.

As I mentioned if you are just going from one point to another and the roads you ride don't matter to you then auto-rerouting is fine. I even use it during those times. But if you have a specific set of roads you want to take for their riding enjoyment auto-rerouting may make you miss some of the roads.

And you probably won't see the problem on a 20 mile or even a 100 mile ride. Where is has screwed me over the most is rides over 500 miles.
 

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Garmin Zumo 550

I am looking into a GPS for my bikes, something I can transfer from one to the othere. I came across the Zumo 550 and have read your comments. I also looked at the 450 as I am not interested in the tel. feature of the 550, but there is no price difference! Do you have pics to share and what is the overall opinion of the Zumo 550?
 

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Just out of curiosity, on the 550 does it come with a jack for audio so you can hear the directions if you do not want to go the bluetooth route? speaker for car use?
thanks!
 
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