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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry if there is something already posted but I've dug through many a forum post to get to this point of creating an account.

about a week ago my wee's dashboard flickered. Pulled over and everything seemed fine. Turned over fine, but it flickered again and died 5 miles later.

The dreaded stator failure.

or so I thought. New electrosport stator installed. Puts out a good charge for about a minute (14.3v) at 3000rpm. Once engine is warmed up it no longer charges the battery when revved but stays a steady 12.2 at idle.

Is this the aftermarket stator, bad wiring, bad R/R, bad cooling, loose magnets on the rotor?

I just put in a new battery hoping against odds that's all it was. I've got some work to do this weekend.

Any ideas?
 

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You pretty much covered all bases already.

As far as I know the DL650 uses a different design rotor than the DL1000. In the DL650 the magnets are embedded in the rotor and there are no reports of migrating/loose magnets.

The stator is a known weak point. Most important test is the dynamic test, where you rev the engine to 5000 RPM and measure the AC Voltage across each of the three pairs of stator wires. You should be getting something like 70 VAC and this should be consistent across all three pairs.

Most of the stator issues stem from the fact that the stock bike uses a shunt-type regulator/rectifier. If the r/r needs to dump power because the stator is pushing out more than what the bike needs at that time, this type of r/r shorts the stator wires. Because the resistance is now near-zero, voltage is near-zero, power = voltage * amps so no power is produced. But the effect of this is high amps through the stator wires (>35A). On a good charging system this is no issue, but if there's a bad joint/connector somewhere then this becomes a weak spot and eventually burns through.

In the above case most often it's the stator itself that burns through somehow, but it could also be the wiring and the connectors between the stator and the r/r.

A series-type r/r (like the Shindengen SH775 or SH847} works on a different principle: they cut of the current. So current is zero, voltage is high. This keeps the stator and your connectors a lot cooler. Lots of people have reported good results from making the switch, and Suzuki now uses an SH847 on the latest model bikes.

Electrosport does not have a stellar reputation on here for longevity of their stators. No personal experience here, just from what I've read. If you still have the old OEM stator, Custom Rewind (search this forum) has a very good reputation.
 

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So new stator and battery. Still have the same symtoms or have they changed? Dash still blank, battery still goes dead while riding? Almost sounds like the charger drops to a trickle after starting, which on a new bat wouldnt take long. But I'm not sure that's an actual function.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So new stator and battery. Still have the same symtoms or have they changed? Dash still blank, battery still goes dead while riding? Almost sounds like the charger drops to a trickle after starting, which on a new bat wouldnt take long. But I'm not sure that's an actual function.
The battery was drained to less than 11.8 when it first died. I charged it back up and had it load tested with no indication of failure. However I noticed with engine off it hovered around 12.2 which seemed low to me. I bought the electrosport against the advice of this forum because a representative said on here they have changed something in the manufacturing process to be more reliable. Installed the electrosport (still waiting on a new gasket so I have a slight oil leak but haven't ridden it except to get it home). Put out a better voltage of 13.8 on the old battery so I decided to clean up and run it home 5 miles off the highway where it dropped all the way to 11.8v on my newly installed voltmeter (with led lights to reduce load). Made it home without anything turning off.

Today I bought a new battery anyways and it holds at 12.6 while off. Doesn't drop below 12 cranked. 12.2 idle. 14.3 revved. The problem is after the engine warms up the stator no longer seems to charge up and it sits at 12.2 but doesn't drain no matter the lights, revs, or accessories I have on or off. I haven't tried riding it with the new battery because the gasket is stuck in purgatory with USPS and I was told not to use liquid/instant gaskets with magnetic stators.

I didn't know I could test the volts of the stator itself with the wire unhooked. I'll try that next. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You pretty much covered all bases already.

As far as I know the DL650 uses a different design rotor than the DL1000. In the DL650 the magnets are embedded in the rotor and there are no reports of migrating/loose magnets.

The stator is a known weak point. Most important test is the dynamic test, where you rev the engine to 5000 RPM and measure the AC Voltage across each of the three pairs of stator wires. You should be getting something like 70 VAC and this should be consistent across all three pairs.

Most of the stator issues stem from the fact that the stock bike uses a shunt-type regulator/rectifier. If the r/r needs to dump power because the stator is pushing out more than what the bike needs at that time, this type of r/r shorts the stator wires. Because the resistance is now near-zero, voltage is near-zero, power = voltage * amps so no power is produced. But the effect of this is high amps through the stator wires (>35A). On a good charging system this is no issue, but if there's a bad joint/connector somewhere then this becomes a weak spot and eventually burns through.

In the above case most often it's the stator itself that burns through somehow, but it could also be the wiring and the connectors between the stator and the r/r.

A series-type r/r (like the Shindengen SH775 or SH847} works on a different principle: they cut of the current. So current is zero, voltage is high. This keeps the stator and your connectors a lot cooler. Lots of people have reported good results from making the switch, and Suzuki now uses an SH847 on the latest model bikes.

Electrosport does not have a stellar reputation on here for longevity of their stators. No personal experience here, just from what I've read. If you still have the old OEM stator, Custom Rewind (search this forum) has a very good reputation.
Well at least I don't have to worry about securing magnets. I'll look into the custom rewind if I can't get this electrosport to work. I looked into the shunt type but thought that just prolonged the life of the stator not cause problems immediately with a brand new stator and battery. Thanks for the advice.
 

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I agree about the wisdom of going to the SH775 or SH847 R/R. After having my OEM stator rewound, and 18 months later ending up with this:
284626


The only stator that I'd buy is the Suzuki 32101-17G13. That 13 is vital because it's the part number that supersedes everything that came before the recall.
 

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Check your stator voltage when warm. If it puts out 70VAC, then it's either a bad connection or a bad R/R. A bad R/R is pretty rare with these bikes. Heat can definitely cause your stator to fail as the copper windings heat up and short to each other.
 

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I might have missed the year of the bike your working on. Are we talking new Wee's or the older Wiser Wee's :)
 

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Had mine die a few years back when the recall was going on for the newer wees and couldn't get a stator worth a damn. Bought and electrosport and it didn't do well, even with an aftermarket R/R. Sent it back under warranty. The 2nd was slightly better but not great either. Found an OEM on ebay and ran that for a while. Then the stator I had ordered 8 months earlier finally shipped. I forget who I ordered the R/R from but it was a a kit that I had to figure out how to mount and it came with pigtails that I attached the plugs to match the harness on the bike.
 

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I agree about the wisdom of going to the SH775 or SH847 R/R. After having my OEM stator rewound, and 18 months later ending up with this:
View attachment 284626

The only stator that I'd buy is the Suzuki 32101-17G13. That 13 is vital because it's the part number that supersedes everything that came before the recall.
Oh my...........that is a grisly sight.
 

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Oh my...........that is a grisly sight.
I know, right? I quickly began to understand why it wasn't charging. The rewind was done by a local one man company who was given rave reviews by several dealerships. It lasted about a year and a half, but I learned my lesson.
 

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I've got 100K miles and have only done the Eastern Beaver thing more recently. I installed a digital volt meter and it happily displays 14.5 to 14.7 after starting. I use the Oxford grips and the Gerbing jacket all the time.
This on an 04 Wee. Am I just lucky to have not experienced a problem or are there just a few unlucky owners to have these failures?
 

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As a percentage, the 650's don't have a huge number of failures. We see/read about the failures because nobody makes a post, "Hey, my stator didn't burn out." So, it is a known issue, but nothing like half of the 650's toast their charging system. There are some interesting threads about switching to a very different type of regulator called a series regulator. The stock regulator is called a shunt regulator. The drawback of a shunt regulator is that, if your stator is rated for 400 watts, it cranks out 400 watts all the time (ignoring rpm for a moment). Any watts that are not needed by the bike get dumped (shunted) to ground and ultimately it turns into heat in the stator.

A series regulator can trick the stator into not making as many watts and turning it into heat in the stator.
 

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To clarify, the K6 Wee makes use of the stator part number 32101-17G02, which superceded the old part number 32101-17G00. See 2006 Suzuki DL650 Magneto | PartsFish.com.
The stator on the K7 - L1 Wee delivered a higher wattage output than that the earlier K4-K6 Wee. Does anyone perhaps recall if the physical size difference (if any) was compared, between these first gen Wee model stators?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The pins inbetween the R/R and my battery were fried and plastic melted. Must have been a loose connection. I think my stator was fine all along. Good excuse to buy the series R/R SH775.

Thanks for the help everybody. Now I've got to figure out how much soldering I'll need to do.
 
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