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Guess it depends on their condition after they are removed. For the couple of bucks they cost I would replace them. Of course I would not use stock suzuki bearings - get something with seals on both sides. The suzuki stuff is over priced and inferior
 

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Farkle Purchasing System
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Discussion Starter #22
What are the specific bearings or bearing type I need if I want to upgrade from OEM? We have a good bearing shop here, I just need to know what to order.
 

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I just buy complete kits from all balls that have the seals and bearings in them. Some don't care for them, but I have had no issues on any of the bikes I use them on. If you want to go to a bearing house, maybe someone has numbers for you - otherwise just remove your existing ones and bring them in - then ask for the ones that are sealed on both sides.

This is the kit I use - all 3 bearings and both seals
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
It looks like the All Balls kit comes with new dust seals, which is nice.

fwiw, here's the good ol' Vstrom.info thread on bearings:


For those playing along at home, the bearings you want for a 2007 DL1000 front wheel are commonly known as size "6204-2RS", where the -2RS bit specifies double-sealed.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Check is supposedly in the mail...yeah, I'm not holding my breath either!
 

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Getting that check would be amazing!! That would totally pay for a new Woody's front spoked wheel + a tire. Just sayin'!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Heh. Nah, just one custom wheel would look silly, and a set of 2 would be near $3k. And that's with the "cheap" options, you can easily drop over $4k on a pair.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
No check from the responsible party yet. Not surprised.

Going to have the wheel repaired, regardless. Maybe I get the payment eventually, maybe not, but if it not I need something to ride.

Making a suitably large box from an even-larger box of double-layer cardboard, derived from a Really Freakin' Big box that a chair came in.

Brake rotors are off. Going to see about having the tire removed. Can't do it at home, no way to break the bead and stretch it over the rim. Hoping the shop will see it my way and only charge me once for removing the tire, then mounting it on the repaired rim once I get it back, since it's the same total amount of work, just spaced out.
 

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Discussion Starter #29


Got the tire off. Shop did me a solid and charged less than half the usual tire-swap fee.

Sent Woody's some more pics. They say it looks repairable.

More good news: rim weighs practically nothing, with the tire off. Shouldn't be too ridiculously expensive to ship. Might go out tomorrow.
 

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Those are just metal covers. If you use 2RS bearings (seals both sides) bearing life tends to be longer anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Those are just metal covers. If you use 2RS bearings (seals both sides) bearing life tends to be longer anyway.
What metal covers where?

Since I've got a minimum couple weeks' wait for the repair, I believe I might source some high-quality bearings & swap 'em out. As well as order ahead for the rear (wheel + sprocket carrier). Won't cost much to have the shop swap them when I get the tire remounted.

The dealership wanted to order a new bearing spacer (09180-20062) as part of the service, but I don't think that's necessary. It's a metal tube that provides some lateral support to the bearings. Hard to see how it could "wear out."
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Here's a pic of one I had repaired 2 years ago...
Was the rear, from 2015 DL650..
Still going strong
How did you manage to bend a rear wheel?

Looks like that didn't hold air for more than a few seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
also WTF is up with the dimensions? Supposedly a "19 inch" wheel. I measured 20.25" from rim edge to rim edge, across the center. There is no dimension on the wheel that is 19".
 

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How did you manage to bend a rear wheel?

Looks like that didn't hold air for more than a few seconds.
I have no idea how that happened..... Was travelling on a fast open dirt, backroad...
I hit what felt like a concrete gutter at about 90 kph. Hit that hard that it pushed the axle back about 1/2" on the right side...
The thing went flat immediately, tried to bash it out with rocks and small logs, no hope!!!
We found that it would hold 8 psi, so I rode the thing 2 hours home, including 50 Ks of freeway, sitting up on the tank to keep the weight off of the rear wheel..
I reviewed the GoPro video that night, you could hear me yell profanities as it hit, but there was nothing on the track big enough to cause a problem.
My theory is that the front wheel flicked up a piece of flat shale, of which the area is full of, setting it up nicely for the rear wheel damage.... THEORY.....
 

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"Metal covers", a couple of the spacers provide dust shielding for the bearing as well. They don't seal, they shouldn't be touching anything, they won't need replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
"Metal covers", a couple of the spacers provide dust shielding for the bearing as well. They don't seal, they shouldn't be touching anything, they won't need replacing.
Right, the dust seals, aka "oil seals" in the parts diagram.

I'm concerned that they'll get torn up in removal, which is required to get at the bearings. Also my dust seals are 12+ years old, so replacing them seems sensible.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Tried before sending it off - no way are those seals coming off without a special tool, or maybe they have to be destroyed/damaged.l

Wheel's on its way to Denver.
 
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