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Discussion Starter #1
After sitting for a year and a half, I decided to get my 06 Wee going again. Layoff was due to a bad hip, got a new one in March. When I parked the bike in an unheated garage, I changed oil and filter, lubed the chain and the usual stuff, and filled the tank with fresh gas and a liberal dose of Sta-bil. A couple days ago, I drained and removed the gas tank, and also removed the fuel pump assembly. Pulled the pump from the mounting plate and checked the well for debris, clean. Pulled the pump from the filter and back washed the filter. Put it all back together. Removed the valve covers and dabbed assembly lube on the cam lobes. Removed spark plugs and squirted some oil into the cylinders. Spun the motor and installed new plugs. Put everything back together. I drained and put in new antifreeze. Time to start up, started easily. Only blipped the throttle a few times since I mainly just wanted it to heat up and circulate the coolant. Waited till I had 4 bars on the temp gauge, then turned off. Dark now, so I put off a ride till the next day. Rolled the bike out of the garage and washed it off using a bike wash and a gentle sprayer on a garden hose. Used a blower to get rid of excess water. Started up Sounded a bit rough but smoothed after warming up. Went to a school complex across the street to do some turns and fig 8's. Went about a mile to a gas station to fill up and then out to the highway. Accelleration seemed a bit sluggish, then I noticed my speed seemed to be limited. Heading back home I couldn't get over 55 with WOT. Bike started to run worse popping and bucking. Last 2 miles was at 15mph. Bike wouldn't rev, idle is ragged and stalls after a few minutes. I did notice when almost home the display flashing between time and FI. Parked for the night, tried to get codes the next day. Bike is no better but no codes. Tried cleaning fuel lines and injectors, no improvement. Any ideas? Replace TPS, injectors?
 

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Your story sounds a lot like mine when I found out that my front spark plug well was holding water. Only the rear cylinder was firing. This happened to me after giving my Wee a good bath and paying special attention to soaping down the engine with simple green and drying with the leaf blower.

Might want to check on this if you haven’t already. I didn’t get any codes but the symptoms were the same - way down on power and would barely idle.

I managed to limp home that night. After I figured out only the rear cylinder was firing I focused in on the front. I found the front plug was all rusty. Dead giveaway that the well was holding water. There is a drain hole on the right side of the bike for this about the size of a BB. There was some trash in there keeping it from draining. I blew the hole out, dried the plug off, and reinstalled with some dielectric grease. Haven’t had any issues since.

Good luck man! Hope it is something easy.
 

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You did a few invasive maintenance items at the same time so it might take some time to figure it out, but if it were me I would assume I made a mistake on reassembly. I would start with the fuel pump, do the volume teat and when you put the tank back on make sure you have all the hoses connected corectly. Pull the pump and double check it too.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: won't run

Both cylinders firing, both pipes hot. Fuel pump puts out 350cc in 10 seconds, almost twice the minimum.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Bike ran fine when put away. Might add that I'm inclined to think it's some type of fuel problem. Revs would sometime increase when throttle rolled off, but not consistant. Should secondary throttle plates move smoothly? Should they be wide open at idle?
 

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You mention WOT, when I had a dose of bad fuel I could not build RPM's and trying WOT made things much worse, too much air not enough fuel.

Are you having a similar problem ?

Have you opened up the air box to look inside ?

When ever I bring a bike back to life that is the first place I look, paper filters are OK but after market foam filters will rot and collapse, also small animals love to build their homes in dark places.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Opened air box, cleaned and re-oiled K&N filter. Removed injectors, sprayed with carb cleaner but did not pressure flush. Will try that next. Still have same problem.
 

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My WAG is fuel. Try new gas from another station.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
More Info

After removing the old spark plugs, looked OK, I squirted some oil into each cylinder and spun the motor with the starter button. (plugs out, nothing grounded). I'm talking just a few 2-3 quick stabs here, not a long crank. Would this have fried something? If so, why was I able to start the motor and run through a heat cycle to "burp" the radiator with seemingly no ill effects? Trouble didn't show up until the next day after washing. Used a cleaner and a gentle spray, not a high pressure wash. Should the secondary throttle plates be open at startup? Should they pretty much stay open? Looking at the linkages, it seems so. I am going to try to clean the injectors better, and also get gas from a different station. I have a TPS on order. Won't hardly run at all now, and still no trouble codes.
 

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This is quite a mystery. Based on your first post you did everything "by the book".

After removing the old spark plugs, looked OK, I squirted some oil into each cylinder and spun the motor with the starter button. (plugs out, nothing grounded). I'm talking just a few 2-3 quick stabs here, not a long crank. Would this have fried something? If so, why was I able to start the motor and run through a heat cycle to "burp" the radiator with seemingly no ill effects? Trouble didn't show up until the next day after washing.
WAG here. With the wires unplugged and not grounded the 50K volts (or whatever) is going to seek a ground. It may have burned a hole or found a crack through the insulation to ground. If the wires were dry then when the plugs were reinstalled the lowest resistance to ground was still through the plug so it ran fine. After washing the plug wires get wet maybe into the cracks or holes and with a damp insulator the wires are now shorting out somewhere instead of going through the plug. If you can fire it up at night or in a dark garage see if you can see any spurious sparks along the path of the spark plug wires. Also, I'd wipe down and clean the insulators with rubbing alcohol, let dry then coat with dielectric grease.

Used a cleaner and a gentle spray, not a high pressure wash.
Not using the high pressure wash is to avoid forcing water into the bearings (mostly) in the rear suspension. Swing arm, cushion lever, dog bone bearings are all unsealed and if you hit them with high pressure water it will force out the grease and rust the bearings. With a gentle spray you may have gotten an electrical component or wires wet that is causing the problem.

Should the secondary throttle plates be open at startup? Should they pretty much stay open? Looking at the linkages, it seems so.
The secondary throttle plates are controlled by the ECU. In prep-to-start (when the speedo needles sweep) the plates should open 100% then close 100% then open to about 10%. You can see this if you lift the tank so that would be a good thing to rule out. With the ignition key off see if you can manually move the secondary plates full open to full close to make sure nothing is binding, then turn on the ignition and see if they execute the prep-to-start sequence to rule this out as a problem.

I am going to try to clean the injectors better, and also get gas from a different station. I have a TPS on order. Won't hardly run at all now, and still no trouble codes.
I have some injectors from a K9 for sale in the For Sale forum, PM me if you are interested. If you decide to get them cleaned I have used RC Engineering.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Didn't get as far as I would have liked, life intrudes, but this is what I did. Pulled and completely drained the gas tank. Removed air box, STP were wide open. Turned key to on, they did not cycle, just shuddered a bit. When I turned the nut at the front of the motor that controls the throttle plates to close them, then turned the key, they opened!! Removed and tried cleaning the injectors, front looks good, rear not as good but still sprays. Will try again in a day or two. Hopefully new TPS will come Wed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well the new TPS did not do the trick. Oddly enough, the STP did cycle when I had the TPS disconnected!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
WTF?????

Since the weather has been so wet here, I've been trying to catch up on outdoor chores and time to work on the Wee is limited. However I did do a fuel pressure test today, and just for fun or out of desperation I mounted the gas tank on the bike and added about 2 gal of gas. Turned the key and heard the STP cycle!!! Huh? Why now? Hit the starter button and it started, idled and revved!! Not sure why it originally crapped out, now I'm not sure why it works. Should add that I checked the line position in dealer mode before starting. -C 00 After I started the bike and let it warm up, I found it to be a real PITA to adjust properly. So is all good? Hope so, won't find out soon, going out of town.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Solved!!??

Well now, bike runs fine. Problem is I'm not sure why it acted up in the first place or what I did that fixed it. I'm inclined to think that the new TPS helped, eventhough it didn't seem to make any difference at first.
 
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