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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All

I am in the process of farkling out the 07 DL1000. I added the following successfully:

Electrical Connection Power Plate and Ground Block
Datel Meter
Powerlet Socket and Powerlet Lighter Socket
J&M 2003 Unit
Zumo 550

All was ok up to this point.

Here is the issue. I just added fog lights using the relay method. The lights and ground go to the battery and the switch is powereing the relay from the Power Plate.

After all was buttoned up I now have a problem that when turning off the ignition the Datel does not turn off right away. It counts down to about 3 volts then goes off. When the key is off I have 1.5 to 2.0 vokts still reading in the overall system on my volt meter not the Datel.

I removed the fuse for the fog lights and all connections for the fog lights and it is still doing it. So...I have current bleed somewhere not related to the fog lights.

But...here is the kicker, if the fog lights are hooked up and ON then the datel goes right off when I switch off the key. If fog lights are off I still have the two volts. Somehow, wherever the problem lies, the fog light circuit if completing the open issue when the lights are on.

I know this was alot to absorb but thanks for your thoughts on the matter.

See ya,
 

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It might help if you drew a diagram of exactly what you did, scan it, and post it here.

What are your Datel wires terminated on?

The symptoms of the Datel dropping to 3, 2, 1 volts usually indicates you are terminated at a device that could have an internal capacitor, and you are watching the stored charge slowly diminish.

Edit: Be sure none of your grounds are touching the bike's frame.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Odd stuff like that usually indicates a ground problem. Make sure any switches or relays only break hot wires, not ground wires. As was mentioned, don't use the frame or engine for ground.
 

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Classic sampling error

Every digital instrument has to have a time balanced function in order that it doesn't jump and be unreadable. Your meter is just reading and averaging the zero input then reports it over 2/3 seconds

Phantom voltage, if there are any largish capacitors they can bleed out over a long time showing voltage on a static OPEN system, when the lights are on that grounds everything immediately

For sh*ts and Giggles pull off the hot lead of your new stuff and do the experiment, if your power block woogigger is electronic they could/should bleed indefinitely as they are ALWAYS connected, thats why relays are the true OPEN circuit

Mostly worry about the health of your stator etc when running these things All my extras are powered by a relay which is triggered by the license plate light so its cold when off
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi All

Thanks for your replies. I think I nailed it. Someone mentioned phantom voltage. I believe the fog light circuit, probably the relay has some resistance thus "holding" voltage and it bleeds down over an hour or so. After awhile it does show zero volts in the circuit. If the lights are on, then they use that voltage and zero it out immediately when the key is turned off.

Equate it to old TVs where they said not to play around with the lectrics even if unplugged as there is voltage back there. Thanks to an electrical friend who helped on this too.
 

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Hi All

Thanks for your replies. I think I nailed it. Someone mentioned phantom voltage. I believe the fog light circuit, probably the relay has some resistance thus "holding" voltage and it bleeds down over an hour or so. After awhile it does show zero volts in the circuit. If the lights are on, then they use that voltage and zero it out immediately when the key is turned off.
I was going to say something along these lines but you said it better than I could have, so.. yeah.

It's not indicative of a problem.
 
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