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I bought the Datel Digital Voltmeter and was curious as to how others have wired them. I would assume that you would want it to be on a switched circuit rather than drawing power all the time if hooked directly to the battery. I read on the manufactures website to wire it off the accessory location on the ignition. Has anyone done it like this? Would there be any potential problems with tapping into a switched wire somewhere? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

jordan
 

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I just installed one like this Sunday night and brought up the same question as a sub topic of a different thread. but I one set of power wires form a pc8 fuse box (relayed) to the front right side of bike to the gps basically ( also through a switch) but ties in to that line for the bolt meter before the switch. I tried the volt meter direct to battery and off the line and it had no difference in readings. So if you have something already set up like aux lights, outlet or whatever you can tie into those but again recommend fused as all you need is a dead battery in the afternoon after work.
 

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I kinda did the same thing as GT Hawk. I have a Eastern Beaver 3 Circuit Solution witch is switched. I taped into the wire going to my luggage power. I used a Posi Tap. Works like a charm.
 

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I just this last week as well (different voltmeter).

Without any other accessories or fuseblock you can run it from the battery, fused. I'd recommend an inline switch as well to be able to shut the thing off..

This is how I did mine...

I have a fuseblock (switched) that LED driving lamps are running from. The switch for those lamps is in the little plastic panel forward of the tank. I tapped into those wires at the switch and mounted my voltmeter in a little black project box (The Source, former Radio Shack). along with a small toggle switch on the side of the box, and mounted the box under my dash shelf.

It's a very clean setup, I'll go take a pic of what it looks like...

Ken
 

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I just this last week as well (different voltmeter).

Without any other accessories or fuseblock you can run it from the battery, fused. I'd recommend an inline switch as well to be able to shut the thing off..

This is how I did mine...

I have a fuseblock (switched) that LED driving lamps are running from. The switch for those lamps is in the little plastic panel forward of the tank. I tapped into those wires at the switch and mounted my voltmeter in a little black project box (The Source, former Radio Shack). along with a small toggle switch on the side of the box, and mounted the box under my dash shelf.

It's a very clean setup, I'll go take a pic of what it looks like...

Ken

yes ypou do want to take pics as I want to see it

Here is my volt meter, right handle bar. I found I did not like any remaining spots that I would cut holes in the plastic so looked and stuck it in there.

 

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Voltmeter pic

Voltmeter I got on fleabay for a couple bucks and a couple more bucks for shipping. Box and switch at The Source for 8 bucks. Dash and ram mount I made myself...

Volter meter off, toggle on right side of box...



On..With sun light behind me.



Ken
 

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I installed mine directly to the battery with a switch so that I could turn it off and on. Was able to check the state of the battery over the winter with a quick flip of a switch!
 

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Lousy Warantee Support...

I bought a Datel meter from the UK importers last year and it developed a fault - whenever it rained it went haywire, reading anything from -10 to +100 volts. Turned out that the rubber sealant hadn't taken to the case and had all come loose.

I dug out my invoice - no phone number, no e-mail addy - nothing...
Eventually found their web site again and e-mailed them politely asking for help and details of their warantee - no rely at all.

Found another e-mail addy - still no reply...

Found a phone number - just rang...

E-mailed the US suppliers - no reply...

Guess they're happy to take your money - but don't expect any back-up if it goes wrong...

A shame, 'cos it's a great little unit that does the job excellently otherwise...
 
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