I've been looking at how-tos on wiring in auxiliary lights and keep seeing differing instructions, specifically with respect to relays. Are relays only needed if you want to disable the high beams, or is there another purpose?
I have a fuse block installed that is switched via relay off the heated grip connector. Could I just wire the auxiliary lights to that and have them work? (see diagram) I don't care about disabling high beams, I just want to be able to turn the lights on as needed.
You could run the lights that way but it is not the correct or safe way to do it...Relays are there to carry full current from the battery and the switch is low current "Control" voltage to fire the relay contacts. It is good that your fuse block is fused, but the individual light circuit( or anything else) should be fused as well.
The idea of a relay is to isolate the switch circuit from the light circuit. It has charged a little now with low amp LEDs. Sometime you can run them without a relay because they draw so few amps.. The relay allows the switch to only have `200ma going through it, and not the multiple amps that lights draw.
In your drawing I would replace your on/off switch with a relay. Connecent the #30 to the fuse block , #87 to the light, and #85 to a ground. Connect a wire from the same +12v to a switch then to #86.
A ready made wiring harness for the V-Strom three wires to the bike. Red wire to battery positive, black wire ti Battery negative, and white wire to any switched source.
A ready made wiring harness for the V-Strom three wires to the bike. Red wire to battery positive, black wire ti Battery negative, and white wire to any switched source.
I know it's over a year old thead; but, the information is relevant to my question. Would the terminals of my Eastern Beaver PC-8 be considered "a switched source"? If yes, in light of the fact I have, for each circuit in my PC-8, a hole for the red wire and a hole for the black wire, where would the white wire then go? I hope that makes sense.
spike55_BMW, if you look at what I quoted from richlandrick, I think that answers your question. He states: "A ready made wiring harness for the V-Strom three wires to the bike. Red wire to battery positive, black wire ti Battery negative, and white wire to any switched source.".
My EB PC8 has six switched and two hot connections. I don't want the hot connections. I want the switched. In light of that, based on what Rick said above, my question, once again was, and is: "Would the terminals of my Eastern Beaver PC-8 be considered "a switched source"? If yes, in light of the fact I have, for each circuit in my PC-8, a hole for the red wire and a hole for the black wire, where would the white wire then go? I hope that makes sense."
Another way to put it would be, if using Rick's V-strom wiring harness, which I will be doing, I know where to put the red wire (power side) and I know where to put the black wire (ground/negative side);but, since the PC8 is my "swithched source" where does the white wire go?" Thanks in advance.
I just installed auxiliary lights two days ago: The switched source wire should be connected to any 12V source which is only hot when the ignition is on. I connected mine to the accessory plug behind the radiator by soldering it to the 12V side of the connector terminal supplying my heated grips.
BigSky -- Most auto & m/c wiring harnesses are very similar. I didn't find a wiring diagram at the AdventureTech site in my cursory scan for it, but Rick's comments suggest a common configuration. Look at your wiring harness and confirm the relay wire connections:
Pin 85 = black wire, which you'll connect to your switched PC8 negative terminal.
Pin 30/51 = red wire, which you'll connect to the same switched PC8 but positive terminal
Pin 86 = white wire, which runs first to the SPST switch and then to...a switched power source (more on this in a moment).
Pin 87 = red wire that runs to the far end of the harness and which you'll connect to your aux lights. (You'll also have a black / ground wire at the far end of the harness which you'll connect to your aux lights.)
If all that checks out, see this link Rick posted. Note the first diagram at the top of the page, but ignore the top-right box within the diagram. Your white wire is the same as the orange wire.
In this case, I don't think it matters to which switched power source you connect the white (orange) wire, and I can't think of a reason why you couldn't connect the white wire to the same PC8 positive terminal as the red wire (if they fit).
The white wire's only purpose: carrying very low current to energize the relay and close the circuit between pins 30/51 and 87, which will turn on the aux lights. If the switched power is off, nothing gets power (neither red nor white). If the switched power is on (and both red and white have power), but the SPST switch is off, the aux lights don't get power. The aux lights only turn on when switched power is on and the SPST switch is on.
Thanks thirdofthree. So, if I understand this correctly, even using a PC-8 or other such fuse block to get my power, I still need to tie into/tap into another switched source wire. Is that correct? If correct, does that only apply to accessories which I wish to have their own separate switch?
I know there's a lot of crossover in my questions; but, I apologize for that. Going a step further, assuming a "yes" answer to both of the prior questions in this post, If I don't want a separate switch for my auxiliary lights (just on/off with the ignition) what then do I do with the white wire in my example/orange in your example?
Hook the red wire and the white wire to the same positive output on your switched PC8 if you don't want/need a manual off/on switch for the lights. The white wire will close the circuit within the relay so the red wire can provide power to your running lights.
Thanks gdrew. I appreciate it. I'm learning more and more from those of you "in the know" all the time.
It's interesting that, in most of these mechanical type "how-to" threads, those in the know often skip what is very basic to them but is completely foreign to those of us trying to learn. A prime example is, I always read "tap in to a switched/live wire" with no explanation of a) how to locate such a wire; and, b) how to tap in to such a wire. It is just assumed we know.
It would be akin to me, in explaining how to reload rifle ammunition, telling someone to de-prime, full length size, de-bur, re-prime, dispense powder and insert bullet and you're done. Simple. For those of you who know reloading, you see what I mean. For those of you who don't, you would need me to explain how to do each of those steps which includes multiple different steps of how-to for each.
Thanks to all of those who tolerate my/our simple questions.
I hear ya BigSky, so many guys giving great advice on this forum that are way way smarter than me. Sometimes I wish they would type slower so I can better comprehend what they are saying:grin2:.
Not to worry, I just come back and keep asking and they keep happily educating. This is one of the best groups you could ask for on the WWW!
See attached for 5 common scenarios (well...not sure how common #5 is, but I do see it pop up on occasion). The distinctions between the scenarios: when and how to turn the lights on / off, and the power source in play for each.
Hopefully #1 and #2 will answer your most recent questions, BigSky.
I have a question regarding your designs... I purchased lights and the harness has a relay installed in it but I do not see any trigger wire... only battery leads. I want the light to only be able to turn on with the key. I am also going to use a different switch, the one provided does not work with my layout that I currently have, so question is how I go about achieving this? Do I need to create my own harness etc...
If it has a relay then the relay gets the power from somewhere, which I am guessing is the switch, which in turn likely gets its power straight from the same battery leads. All you need to do is break this 12V feeder into the switch and instead use a switched 12V source. You can use your own switch between this switched source and the relay as you please.
So you should be fine using the harness, only cut both wires near the switch off, figure out which one carries 12V. Don’t use that one. Feed your own switched 12V into the other one which will drive the relay.
hope this helps.
This is a good diagram. But no need to dig into the relay harness he already has. The trigger cable will be one of the two leading to the supplied switch.
Although the basic diagram of thirdofthree is sound, there's one thing that I would do differently, and that's the "ground to battery" thing. Due to the different materials used on the VStrom and the risk of galvanic corrosion if wet, the frame of the bike itself should not be used as ground. Instead, there is a ground bus wire (black with a white stripe) that runs through the whole cable loom and can be used as ground. Alternatively, you can run your own negative wire to the battery negative. If you look at pre-made wiring looms, such as those from Eastern Beaver for the PC8, that's exactly how they do that.
The only exception to this is the engine case itself. A few engine-attached components (starter motor, ignition coils/spark plugs, oil pressure switch) use the engine case as ground, and there is a ground strap from the engine directly to the battery.
and one again I will mention the Neutrino black box with built in fuse boxes, relays, and computer control of all functions. I have heated vest and two sets oifn auxiliary lights (one set of which is timed to change automatically at sunset) without the need for hunting fro ground wires or finding a place for relays.
Just sayijng
Connecting ground to battery (or fuse panel) doesn't require any "hunting". Not sure how that's any different from ground for Neutrino.
In this case, with no desire stated for current or future additional capability, a relay is approximately 2.5" x 1" x 1.2" (including female connector block and "ear" / mounting tab. Seems easier to find a place for a relay (or 3) than a 4" x 2.5" x 1" Neutrino.
I will post a pic of it when I get home with it all layed out. I am going to need to replace the switch possibly with the one I got from EB as that is the size hole in the aux. dash.. so I am hoping that the simple answer is that I can just swap out the switch.,
I will post a pic of it when I get home with it all layed out. I am going to need to replace the switch possibly with the one I got from EB as that is the size hole in the aux. dash.. so I am hoping that the simple answer is that I can just swap out the switch.,
I'm with @Hogges -- I don't see a relay included with the harness, and there are multiple comments in the reviews / Q&A about no relay. Looks like the positive wire simply runs battery > fuse > switch > lights. In which case, you'll want to pick up a relay + socket, something like this:
For making wire-to-wire connections, I like posi-locks (for bare wire to bare wire) and posi-taps (for tapping bare wire into an existing insulated / jacketed wire mostly non-destructively). Helps to get the correct size posi-* connectors, though erring on too-large is a bit safer given some cheap wiring has really large insulation / jacket relative to copper wire diameter.
I am currently using Runway Gold ADV4 floodlights bought from Ali Express (since I am in Asia) on my 2010 DL1000.
The lights are of decent quality and came with a good quality premade harness having a variable power switch / relay.
The lights hook up directly to the battery while there are 03 extra wires that need to be connected to the horn (for strobe function), high beam (for instant full power) and the third wire goes into the ignition circuit to power the relay. The switch is a toggle type so everytime u turn on yr motorcycle, the aux lights are off by default and need to be turned on by depressing a button come light dimmer.
Now the issue is that as soon as the ignition is turned on, the lights turn on by themselves briefly for like 2 seconds. Since these turn on at full power, they seem to draw a lot on a weak / old battery making it difficult to crank the engine. This is especially true since the bike's own lights also stay on until you hit the starter.
Is there anyway I can connect the relay power wire to a switched power source that only powers once the bike has already started up so as not to put strain on the battery in the prestart state?
Pls help, thanks.
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