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Live in Connecticut. Couple weeks of riding left. Going to put her away but want to do it right. It's a 2012 with 5,600 miles. She will be in my unheated garage.

What I know to do:

Oil Change
Oil/Clean Chain
Battery Tender
Air filter (maybe)

Not sure:

Drain gas or fill her up? Water condensation in empty tank? Bad for seals?
Okay for tires to be on cold cement?

Missing anything else to do?


If there is a thread already please let me know.
 

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I see no reason to do anything with the air filter. As for the battery, my opinion is the best thing you can do for it is to take it out for the winter. That way there is ZERO drain on it. Still use the charger occasionally to keep it "topped off". Oil change is a good thing. Make your own decision on fuel level. I don't think the fuel injected engines are as prone to gumming up as the old carburetor systems. I do like to put fuel stabilizer in, not sure if it helps for 3 months but shouldn't hurt. The worst thing you can do is occasionally start the bike for 5-10 minutes and shut if off . Park it and leave it alone. Put the max air pressure in your tires stated on sidewall. This helps to avoid flat spotting ( should go away on first ride ). A couple layers of old carpet under the tires is good for this also. A centerstand takes almost all the bikes weight off the tires, but not everyone has one. Oil the chain real good. If you have a cover for it or an old sheet put it on. Keeps people from using it for a storage rack!

I don't worry about this stuff in Houston anymore, but I sure had to go thru it in WV!
 

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I live in Minnesota, and here's what I did, just yesterday. Rode to work (not very often you get to to that here, in December), stopped on the way home and topped off the fuel. When I got home I added a few ounces of Sea-Foam to stabilize the fuel, drained the crankcase and refilled with fresh oil. Done.

I haven't pulled a battery for winter storage in years, and I haven't had a battery fail. Fuel injected bikes seem to start on the first crank or two even after sitting for a long period and even if the battery may not be 100%, I've never had a problem with them starting.
 

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Why change the oil before putting it away for a few months, instead of changing the oil to start the next riding season?
 

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Used oil has contaminants from combustion byproducts in it that can combine with condensation to form acids. Change the oil before storage and ride on it come Spring.
 

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Live in Connecticut...with 5,600 miles...will be in my unheated garage.

Oil Change
Oil/Clean Chain
Battery Tender
Air filter (maybe)

Drain gas or fill her up? Water condensation in empty tank? Bad for seals?
Okay for tires to be on cold cement?

Missing anything else to do?
North of you on Mass/NH border. Suggest oil change and filter (since it'll be due at 6K, anyway). A few ounces of StarTron in tank, fill 'er up, take her for a spin, return to garage and top off tank. Clean/lube chain, wash bike if so inclined. Put 'er up on centerstand, slab o' wood under front wheel and remove battery to warmer indoors (where you can periodically give it a few-hours zap with a Tender/charger). Stuff oily rag in exhaust port. To discourage mousies, I stuff those horrid-smelling dryer sheets all over the bike where there is wiring and potential chewables. Finally, I put a full-cover on for her long winter sleep.
 

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I rolled it into the shed today -- just as easy to roll it out. I don't do anything special to it except gas stabilizer and one is as good as another -- just use it.
 

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Its a common mistake to think the battery should be in a warm place, but its better to leave it in the cold, just unplug one of the two wires.
 

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Its a common mistake to think the battery should be in a warm place, but its better to leave it in the cold, just unplug one of the two wires.
Really? Is it "unhealthy" for the battery to be stored in a warm place and periodically (once monthly) charged for an hour or so?

(Yet ANOTHER reason for me to get my butt in gear and build some on-site/at home storage for my bike instead of keeping it miles away in a friend's garage/barn)
 

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Self-discharge rate is proportionnal to temperature storage. It is negligable at low temperature for 3 or 4 months.
 

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I can occasionally get in a ride on the weekends athough it is usually short. Why is it bad to NOT winterize the bike, and try to run it once a week ? I use Sea Foam in the gas, keep everything oiled.....

here is an interesting article on the subject.......

Motorcycle Winterization
run it, or ride it ?

simply starting and letting it idle isn't enuf, if your not going to ride it don't bother starting it,

1. idle doesn't charge like riding speeds
2. just cause water temp is warm doesn't mean the oil isup to temp and contaminates evaporated



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I rolled it into the shed today -- just as easy to roll it out. I don't do anything special to it except gas stabilizer and one is as good as another -- just use it.
So, this thread is relavent to my interests! I too am missing many days as the weather gets oogy. I recently acquired a battery tender, and I'm curious the proper storage methodology.

What I'm hearing is:
1) Don't bother with the tender. The cold weather won't drain the battery. Question to this - should I undo one terminal? Or should I hook up the tender? If I do hook up the tender, should I disconnect the bike electricals?

2) Fill up the tank, put some gas stabilizer in it. Question on this one - what if I want to go for a quicky ride during a warm spell. Is the stabilizer going to be an issue? (I'm guessing not. I'm going to burn it soon anyway.

3) Do an oil change now - My hindbrain says 'yes, if the parts are going ot be sitting still all winter, have them sit in CLEAN oil.'

I also like the "Don't bother starting it if you're not going to ride it. It won't benefit anything".
 

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Winterizing

My mechanic changed my oil before I rode up to the place I'm storing it. His recommendations were pretty simple:

Throw in stabilizer and then fill the tank up and ride home. He suggested filling with a premium fuel without ethanol, but then admitted it probably didn't matter. For the battery, he told me just to leave it in but unhook the negative terminal, though I have a tender. If you take the battery out, leave it in the garage because colder temperatures are better for them.

For tires he suggested significantly overinflating them (like 80+ psi) to keep them from flattening, just drop the pressure in the spring. I thought this was nuts, but he stakes his reputation on it. In the end, I put the bike on jack stands anyhow, so I could clean the chain, and I hit it with Chain Wax.

Otherwise, simple stuff - I washed it thoroughly, waxed the paint, and treated the rest of it with Fluid Film. I'll wash that off in the spring.

The biggest pain in the ass was the jack stands, because they're not quite a perfect fit and I was slightly concerned about stability, but they seem to be doing fine.
 

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Its a common mistake to think the battery should be in a warm place, but its better to leave it in the cold, just unplug one of the two wires.
Finally someone agrees with me:thumbup:... A Battery stored between 5C - 10C will hold it's charge longer than if stored at room temp...
 

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The biggest pain in the ass was the jack stands, because they're not quite a perfect fit and I was slightly concerned about stability, but they seem to be doing fine.
Why not use a center stand? That'll lift the rear tire and carry a ton of the weight. I'd guess with that you'd end up not needing to overinflate the tires (very little weight on the front tire).
 

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It's easy to winterize if you have a warm garage. Since I have one I usually don't do much. Clean the whole bike and just add Sea Foam or Sta bil in the fuel. Then I start them a few times over the winter.

If you had to leave them outside I'd buy a cover for them and remove the battery. UV rays seems to age the plastic. Batteries like cool weather, like in the 40's F. So it depends if your bike has a current leak that can kill it in no time. Filling the fuel tank sounds like a good idea too. A flat tire may make it do strage things.
 

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Why not use a center stand?
Because some idiot at Suzuki decided that VStroms didn't need them, and some idiot who bought a VStrom didn't get around to ordering one from Twisted Throttle for it. I'm getting one put on in the spring. Along with a proper bash plate.
 
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