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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

Happy new owner of a dl650 2017, been riding for the first time this summer too, couldn't be happier. But living in Quebec, it means my bike is going to sleep for the next 4 to 6 months. Now, I want to get it ready properly.

My bike currently have about 650km. I was planning on having the first check done before storing it but I won't have time to get it to the dealer in the next month. Thus, I'll have to take it to them on spring, when everyone is getting there bike checked.

I've topped to fuel tank, added about 80ml of motomaster field stabilizer, ran for about 10 minutes (time to get back to my house from the gaz station).

Now, I only have the oem side stand. I bought a batter tender plus 12v 1.25a. I'll remove the battery and put it in my basement with the battery tender on it.

The bike itself will be in my garage (separate from house). It's not heated but it's still isolated. The coldest I registered was -10C (was about -35C outside for a week when it reached that temp).

I do use the garage for my car also. That mean I'll enter in the garage with my car full of ice, snow and salt. There's no drain in my garage for water. The car is less then a feet from my bike.

What else should I do to properly get my bike through winter?

I have 0 mechanical knowledge and no nothing about parts name (except really basic stuff like chain, seat,...). I do want to learn, but I'm a slow learner.

Thank you
 

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About the only things I would do different:

- change the oil and filter, using recommended components and then, in the spring, show the dealer that you have done so. If it was my bike, I would not want the "break in" oil and contaminants left in the bike over the winter. Dead easy to do yourself. Don't be scared of trying it.

- don't bather with taking the battery out. I don't think there is any hard evidence that doing so extends the life of the battery. Just leave it in the bike and hook up the tender. BTW - batteries nowadays seem to expire unexpectedly in a relatively short period of time. I have taken to replacing mine, on a routine basis, every 3-4 years regardless of how they are performing.

- Get your tires out of the way of any salt water that accumulates on the floor from your car. Shallow pans (eg baking sheets) would work.

- Don't worry too much about it. These bikes are built stout!!! The difference in doing nothing compared to everything MAY BE extending the life from 150,000 kms to 200,000 kms. Maybe!! (are you going to keep it that long?) Lots of anecdotal stuff but very little unbiased (ie. not money related) info out there.
 

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My 2017 has about 250KM on it. If you used Regular low octane fuel, it might be advisable to syphon it out and use it in the car, as regular in Canada has Ethanol, which doesn't do good things in stored fuel systems. Shell 91 and I believe Petro Canada 91 do not have Ethanol.
I run mine on Regular, but will store it with 91 and fuel stabilizer. As the other respondent suggested, an oil change is always a good idea before storage. I'd probably clean the bike too and put a cover over it. I bought an inexpensive one on AMazon.ca for $29. Seems to be of decent quality for the money..
 

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Really no need to do anything. 3 to 6 month or dormancy is nothing for a motorcycle. Topping up the tank is a good idea as is removing the battery and putting it on a battery tender for a couple hours every 3 to 4 weeks.

There is no need to change the oil as at 650KM the additives package in the oil is still good.


The best thing to do is simply leave the bike alone. The worst thing lots of people do is go out and start the bike every now and then. Let it idle for 10 minutes "till she's hot" turn off the ignition and walk away. In doing his the motor does not reach operating temperature and leaves a lot of moisture in side the crankcase and exhaust as the oil did not reach 100c/212f to be able to boil off the moisture.
 

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I agree with Nicad on cleaning and covering the bike.
Taking the battery out and storing it on a trickle charger in the basement might not be a bad idea, due to warmer temperature than in your garage.
Temps well below freezing might not be great for your battery.
 

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A full tank with stabilizer is a good idea in QC. Humid winters..Otherwise ya just leave it alone.. Cover it up so it can't see the snow outside..
 

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I don't know if removing the battery is worth doing. But the battery tender is better than nothing. Even better is putting it on a regular charger every couple weeks.

Cleaning the bike is good. Lube the chain. Put 2-3 lbs more air in the tires than normal, it will leak down anyway. Rotate the tires a quarter turn every now and then, helps with flat spots on the first ride.

If you change your own oil, I would probably change it. Gets rid of all contaminants and it is supposed to have this done at first service anyway.
 

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If I'm going to store the bike for more than two weeks, I use e10 with stabilizer. If more than a month, e0. If more than three months, e0 with fuel stabilizer. I never store a less than full tank.

Winter storage can cause condensation in oil. Combustion byproducts in oil are acidic when dissolved in water.

Full Tank, e0 with fuel stabilizer
Gear oil chain wipe down
Change Oil
Engine Fog
Remove battery
ACF 50 full spray down
Aero 303 spray on Seat
Plug muffler to keep out critters
Lift rear tire off ground
Cover with old bed sheet in garage


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Ship it down to me here in the desert, riding season is just getting really good down here! Ill take good care of er for ya! :grin2:

Everybody else has covered it:
Battery on trickle inside
Fuel stab
move it a bit every now and then so the tires don't get flat spots

Shell fire right up in the spring!


I like the baking pans for the tire idea too
 

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If I'm going to store the bike for more than two weeks, I use e10 with stabilizer. If more than a month, e0. If more than three months, e0 with fuel stabilizer. I never store a less than full tank.

Winter storage can cause condensation in oil. Combustion byproducts in oil are acidic when dissolved in water.

Full Tank, e0 with fuel stabilizer
Gear oil chain wipe down
Change Oil
Engine Fog
Remove battery
ACF 50 full spray down
Aero 303 spray on Seat
Plug muffler to keep out critters
Lift rear tire off ground
Cover with old bed sheet in garage

You're in Portland?
No snow or ice there in the winter right?

Ride that bike! :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'll have to get some tools for maintenance in the futur! I don't have anything to oil/ungrease the chain, no center stand (I hope I can fit it with the lowered front and back). I'm looking on a way to raise the wheels right now in the thigh space I have. Someone told me of a jack for bike, but I'm not confortable on letting the bike rest on a jack that could tip or break.

thanks again!
 

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I'll have to get some tools for maintenance in the futur! I don't have anything to oil/ungrease the chain, no center stand (I hope I can fit it with the lowered front and back). I'm looking on a way to raise the wheels right now in the thigh space I have. Someone told me of a jack for bike, but I'm not confortable on letting the bike rest on a jack that could tip or break.

thanks again!
Rag and Varsol is an easy way to clean the chain. Get a good chain lube and spray it on after cleaning. The chain maintenance thing is where a center stand really comes in handy.
In lieu of a center stand, this can be used. (make sure you put a strap around the front brake lever)

https://fortnine.ca/en/tirox-snapjack-portable-jack

but I wouldn't leave the bike on it.

BTW - with as few kms as your bike has, I wouldn't worry about cleaning the chain. Just give it a light coating of lube. DO NOT use WD-40.

Don't over think this. Nothing you do, or don't do, at this stage will greatly hurt the bike. About the only thing I
suggest you HAVE to do (and some will argue even that) is to fill the tank and add stabilizer and the battery tender. If you are concerned about ethanol, Stabil sells a Marine stabilizer (green colored) that supposedly works good on Ethanol fuel.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/sta-bil-marine-formula-0380915p.html#srp
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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If I'm going to store the bike for more than two weeks, I use e10 with stabilizer. If more than a month, e0. If more than three months, e0 with fuel stabilizer. I never store a less than full tank.

Winter storage can cause condensation in oil. Combustion byproducts in oil are acidic when dissolved in water.

Full Tank, e0 with fuel stabilizer
Gear oil chain wipe down
Change Oil
Engine Fog
Remove battery
ACF 50 full spray down
Aero 303 spray on Seat
Plug muffler to keep out critters
Lift rear tire off ground
Cover with old bed sheet in garage


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

And the additives package in the oil are what neutralize these acids. So unless you are close to an oil change interval the additives package is still doing its job and the oil does not need changed.

If you go on a 2 week or 2 month vacation would car get all this treatment? Or is it like the overwhelming amount vehicles that relegated to living life outdoors and under maintained other the occasional oil/filter change. I mean my last Toyota was 16 years old I owned it for 13 of those years. It had the original brake pads, brake fluid, original coolant, 10 year old tires and a 10 year old battery. It sat outside 365 rain, shine, sleet or snow and got new E10 fuel about once every two months. Everytime I turned the key it started, ran fine and never let me down.

As with all theses winterizing thread I always find it amusing that if motorcycle are over maintained they are undermaintanined.
 

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I'll have to get some tools for maintenance in the futur! I don't have anything to oil/ungrease the chain, no center stand (I hope I can fit it with the lowered front and back). I'm looking on a way to raise the wheels right now in the thigh space I have. Someone told me of a jack for bike, but I'm not confortable on letting the bike rest on a jack that could tip or break.

thanks again!
Look at spool and pin style paddock stands for getting the wheels off the ground . Honestly a center stand is a lot better use of money though.
 

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I am also of the train of thought that modern bikes don't need too much prep to sit for a while. My personal things I do: 1. If it's about time for an oil change i do it 2. Leave it on a battery tender type gadget 3. Top off tank and add stabilizer making sure it's through the system and lastly, 4. Move it once in a while so I don't get a flat spot in the tires (if that's even possible).
 

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Your plans so far are great. As long as a battery is kept charged it will not freeze. An oil change is easy to do and relatively cheap. Gets rid of all the acids etc in the oil. And come spring you are ready to roll. If you decide not to, don't sweat it, she will survive. Out here Chevron has a premium fuel with no ethanol in it. My routine is use the premium for the last 3 fills of the year. Add stabilizer and run home. Drop the oil. Oil and new filter. Run for one minute to spread clean oil through the engine.I then put up on the race stand and use an motorcycle lift under the bash plate to lift the front wheel off the ground. Attach battery tender, plug exhaust with toweling, cover n done. In the spring it starts right up. Come spring phone early to book a service as everyone and their dog will be wanting work done.
 
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