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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Apologies up front if this 'Appendix' idea goes against the 'the only one' theme of the main Windscreen and Buffeting thread... I'd be happy to move this topic into that thread but it is getting a bit long... so didn't want to clog it up. Happy to rename this if inappropriate too.

Following on from my initial post here.


Herewith my guide to making your own Air Flares for the Glee:


Disclaimer - this is free advice and probably worth every penny. Please don't melt your bike and/or create something that distracts you and makes you fall off it at speed (or stationary for that matter!)... or anything like that. Oh... and please don't blame me if something goes wrong. I'm quite brave around the workshop although with no appropriate training. I've learned by trial and error and might be underestimating how easy I thought this was, or what a risk I took pressing (reasonably) hot Perspex to the plastic fairing of my prized Glee. I've never worked with Perspex until now... if that helps... but I've used a jigsaw and drill before. I wear eye protection these days too :thumbup: and so far so good. No Glee was hurt in the making of this article and there was no blood, burns or blindness suffered afterward by anyone involved or standing nearby. :fineprint:

WARNING: The design isn't perfect and you will need to somehow protect the plastics from being scratched when riding and the air pushes the Air Flares inwards toward the fairing. I'm still trying to figure out a permanent solution (ideas welcome!) but for now I'm using rubber sticker discs normally used under furniture. Glass protector buttons also work, and with one prototype I stuck foam rubber all along the edges, which really protects everything... but doesn't look too good.


What you'll need:

- Longer bolts than the ones in the fairing. I used ones about 50mm / 2" long. There is a limit to the length. If you feel around inside the fairing you'll realise there's something metal there that will eventually get in the way of the bolt if it's too long.

- Paper or cardboard to create a template.

- An A4 (roughly) sized sheet of Perspex or suitable material - I got mine from a signage company - just walked in and asked for an off-cut... cost - $0

- Suitable saw to cut out the shape

- Sandpaper to smooth things around the edges

- Plumbers torch or heat gun or some such thing with which to heat up the Perspex so that you can bend it. Lots of 'how to' stuff on YouTube... it surprised me how easy it is if you have a torch. I wouldn't be surprised if you could do it with a candle and some patience.

- Drill to make mounting holes. I used about a 6mm wood drill bit (I wanted the hole to be larger than the bolt to avoid stressing the Perspex).

- Rubber spacers / washers. I used a thick, hard rubber tap washer, surrounded by soft (old bicycle inner tube) cut outs, plus a metal washer on the outside.

- Something to protect the fairing from the Air Flare rubbing against it. As per warning above.

- A sip of good ale really helps now and then :yesnod:


Step 1:
Start out with this shape



Step 2:
Transfer this shape to your choice of material.

I tried with a thinner Perspex first, then opted to go with this 3mm stuff. There are pros and cons to the choice, around flexibility, durability, etc. My bike is garaged day and night and mostly on tarmac. They are pretty easy to make once you get the hang of it... so try different thicknesses and see what works best for you. I'm not sure if this methods works on anything other than Perspex though. So please do some research on how to bend other materials before simply aiming a flame at it.

Tip: Try leaving the protective film on to prevent scratching until you use the heat gun... then it needs to be off.

Tip: Make a few extra templates. Once you've bent them you'll realise how impossible it is to copy them again ;)




Step 3:
Cut them out with a metal hacksaw / blade (or better if you know how). My jigsaw on medium speed worked OK.

Cut slowly, and watch out for heat buildup. The Perspex will likely melt here and there along your cuts. Sometimes it re-connects to the other half and bonds so strongly you have to cut it again :headbang:

Try as far as possible to keep the material steady and avoid too much vibration/flexing. Just when you think you've finished with that last little bit to go, it might crack and you've got to start again :jawdrop:






Step 4:
Sand down edges by hand or with a sander. The finer the paper the cleaner you'll get the edges apparently. I just used standard '60' gauge sandpaper that came with my sander.




Step 5:
Remove fairing bolt and store somewhere safe. You'll need to use a longer one if you're going to use enough rubber spacers to reduce vibration and permit some flexibility. See 'What you'll need' above.

Step 6:
Make sure you know where you want to position your Air Flare. I put these stickers on to show what I was lining things up with to try make something that kinda fits the lines of the fairing.

Hmmm... seems I've reach my limit of file attachments. Follow on post coming up!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Step 6 Continued





Step 7:
Heat up the Perspex along the indicated curve. I used a plumbers torch and you can see the flame size. I passed it over the material at a steady pace. Holding it in my hand, I could sense when the material wanted to bend just with gravity. You can heat from both sides.




Step 8:
While hot, hold the shape up against the fairing, and push from the outside in, so that the material 'crumples' into the space behind it. If you wear gloves (or work fast with quick touches), you can push the material up against the fairing to get it to match the shape more accurately. The hot Perspex didn't do any damage to the darker plastic. At one point I re-heated the sharp end to get it better aligned with the bolt hole, and pressed it against the hole, which is in the orange plastic... and when removing it I felt if may have been trying to 'stick' to it... :jawdrop:. Luckily no awful outcome... but be careful. Maybe cover the fairing in metal foil or something?



This is about the bend shape you're looking for...



More to follow - but it's simply drill a hole in them, and mount them using suitable rubber / vibration damping material, and spacing them away from the plastics to avoid scratching the one against the other.
 

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I think this is different enough to allow it to stand alone. A link to it from the parent thread is probably a good idea. Please stay on topic though everybody. Don't stray off into windscreens and mirrors.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Step 9: Drilling holes then mounting

Step 9: Drill holes in the appropriate place.

I used about an 6mm wood bit. Using tape might help keep the edges clean. I guess small cracks here are what will cause them to break off further down the line. I also tried to keep the hole far enough away from any edge, and the hole a bit bigger than the bolt, so that pressure from the surrounding rubber washers was what touched the actual Perspex, not the bolt which could carry vibration.



Step 10:
Mount using rubber washers. Spacing them far enough away from the plastic may result in no need for protective things to be stuck between the Air Flares and the Fairing, but I'm not sure how effectively they will then deflect the air from that channel that sucks air inward towards your belly, then upward into and under your helmet causing noise... as well as disturbing the airflow past your helmet which I think all add up to the terrible buffeting and discomfort most of us reading this thread seem to be experiencing.








More on the warning about rubbing against the fairing.

At this point in time - I'm using small rubber disk shaped stickers about 1.5cm diameter, stuck on the fairing, to stop the Perspex Air Flare from touching the plastic. I'm pretty sure when it rains or I wash the bike, they'll eventually fall off and need to be replaced.

I'm working on a way to solve this. As soon as I or anyone else has a bright idea... please let us know!



Hope this helps. Anyone else with good ideas how to improve this concept please don't hesitate to contribute.

:biggrinjester:
 

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Interesting thread. How thick is the perspex you used?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Interesting thread. How thick is the perspex you used?
About 3mm

Have you rode with them attached? results?
Yes absolutely - riding is now a totally different experience, even with the makeshift idea-in-the-making the effect is very noticeable. The air around the front of my torso is still and the buffeting is stopped. The noise 'booming' in my helmet is greatly reduced (completely eliminated with my Sparx Octane helmet, not entirely with my Shark flip face, but my hand-guards appear to be the main culprit now) and I can move the GIVI AF3101 to different heights to match differing speeds (traffic, outrides, etc.) and/or I'm using my gel seat pad so sitting a little higher up, etc. etc.

I can hear the bike now - which is awesome! :mrgreen:
 

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Brilliant.

On the rubber stickies you may be able to use a small amount of tank gripper material for long lasting result. OR it may make sense to permanently fasten with hardware a rubber standoff on the deflector.
 

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This is great! There is an older post titled Winglets. Thanks for thepics and instructions. Now if they can be made adjustable.
 

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Maybe some of those black "door edge guards" for cars that the auto parts shop sells for a few bux... wouldn't stop the rubbing, but might allow it to rub without damage.

I love this idea; I'm going to order a Givi Airflow next week so I will have to make some of these too.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Brilliant.

On the rubber stickies you may be able to use a small amount of tank gripper material for long lasting result. OR it may make sense to permanently fasten with hardware a rubber standoff on the deflector.
Excellent idea. I recall it being quite costly stuff, but will go look around. I guess the trick is going to be to find something that sticks to the plastic well enough to last through a wash or wet ride... And looks fair decent. My small black disks are working well and blend into the plastic pretty well... But I can see they aren't going to stay stuck for very long :(


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I'll be following this thread too! On my 2012 I installed the SW Motech light mounts and some LED lights that actually smoothed out airflow some. I have experimented with tank deflectors on the earlier model V Stroms ( they are still on the '04, pic of them on the '03 below the levers and mounted on the tank area ) and they make a worthwhile difference. I will be working on something for my 2012...

 

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I'm working on a way to solve this. As soon as I or anyone else has a bright idea... please let us know!



Hope this helps. Anyone else with good ideas how to improve this concept please don't hesitate to contribute.

:biggrinjester:
So, I want to do this.

I'm thinking of adding a tab to the lower edge that may rub the panel bending it back parallel with the panel then drilling a small hole in the tab and put a rubber bumper that many hardware stores sell. (the bumpers are much like the one on my sw motech center stand that is a rubber disc with a mushroomed nub that pushes through a hole much smaller than the bumper and holds it there).

Conversely, you could drill a small hole in the panel where the air flare contacts it and place the nub of the bumper through that. You wouldn't have to worry about it ever falling off or moving and it may be much easier. Of course, then you're putting a hole (prob 1/8") into your bike. many may not like that.

something like this...



thoughts?

BTW, Great Post!!! Thanks for taking the time to write this up!
 

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"shrooms"

Now this I like... Will see how I might adjust the template with a tab or two. Any idea where we could purchase these 'shrooms?
Thanks for the input. Fantastic!


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Any local hardware store should have a variant of these. Check back by all the specialty knobs, bushings and grommets. I'm pretty sure they're called "bumpers."
 

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Well I put the set I was making on hold and copied the set posted here. I made them up in about 3 hours and bolted them up last night. This morning went for a quick 300+ mile ride and I notice a huge difference immediately! there staying on! Well worth the effort. Thanks [email protected] :hurray::hurray:

 

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Just have seen this. I really like the idea.

It will be perfect to attatch the deflector at each side of the tacho, in front of handlebar.

I'll try to make something like this.

Do you have the shape in pdf or any other digital format?
 

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Just have seen this. I really like the idea.

It will be perfect to attatch the deflector at each side of the tacho, in front of handlebar.

I'll try to make something like this.

Do you have the shape in pdf or any other digital format?
What I did was copy the picture then print it out. Put it back on the printer and blew it up 200% is the perfect size.
 

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About 3mm



Yes absolutely - riding is now a totally different experience, even with the makeshift idea-in-the-making the effect is very noticeable. The air around the front of my torso is still and the buffeting is stopped. The noise 'booming' in my helmet is greatly reduced (completely eliminated with my Sparx Octane helmet, not entirely with my Shark flip face, but my hand-guards appear to be the main culprit now) and I can move the GIVI AF3101 to different heights to match differing speeds (traffic, outrides, etc.) and/or I'm using my gel seat pad so sitting a little higher up, etc. etc.

I can hear the bike now - which is awesome! :mrgreen:
mark,
excellent idea. got 6k on my bike and i just did 800mi this weekend and by hanging my left hand off the switchgear, it dramatically reduced the drumming. surprise...could it be that simple? tried all the windscreens and have the givi af now. i think u may have a real solution to correct a good portion of this problem that looks good. when the final flare design is complete i think you should make them available to all. i'm 1st in line for a set. if i make them myself, i'll make a mess of them.
 
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