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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I have a 2004 DL1000 and I drained the battery dead leaving a aux. outlet plugged in (has a light around one of the outlets) . I then plugged in my battery tender and got a green light when I checked back a few days later. When I went to start the bike I got a strong headlight but the dash wasn't acting right > it didn't show how much fuel or the red light in the center and the bike didn't turn over but did get the noise from the fuel pump. Then I jumped the bike from my KLR while it was running and now the bikes dash was acting good and the bike would crank over strong but not start like it wasn't getting fuel.
It definitely had enough juice to start ?? When I tried again without a jump it got the fuel pump to make it's noise but nothing else. The battery is toast BUT why didn't the bike start with a good strong jump ??? any ideas ????????????
 

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My head goes to the quality of the jump connector

Additionally an OLD DEAD battery can be shorted out internally and act as a sump rather than add to the starting current.

Minimally try JUST the klr battery in the Vee
 

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It definitely had enough juice to start ?? When I tried again without a jump it got the fuel pump to make it's noise but nothing else. The battery is toast BUT why didn't the bike start with a good strong jump ??? any ideas ????????????
That's debatable. Batteries have varying degrees of wear/death.

Take the battery to walmart, or any other automotive place that tests for free. Better yet, buy your own load tester - they're fairly cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My head goes to the quality of the jump connector

Additionally an OLD DEAD battery can be shorted out internally and act as a sump rather than add to the starting current.

Minimally try JUST the klr battery in the Vee
I ordered a new battery and I'll try just the KLR battery but the bike was cranking very strong and just not firing up , like it wasn't getting fuel. Do you think something blew ??? No error code popped up ???????????????
 

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Logic tree

You have to start with the battery

Fish eye the socket installation

Electronics ecu ignitors and injectors do have a minimum voltage to work. If during cranking the voltage drops then motor control fails
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Logic tree

You have to start with the battery

Fish eye the socket installation

Electronics ecu ignitors and injectors do have a minimum voltage to work. If during cranking the voltage drops then motor control fails
What do you mean by fish eye the socket installation ???? Have a battery on it's way (mail order)
 

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When ever a mechanical thing exhibits problems always look first at the last thing and the area that was touched in a previous "repair".

MIsplaced, rubbed through, burned through, unplugged, broken undxer the insulation yada yada
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
it started

I tried jumping with the battery removed and connecting the cables direct to the KLR battery, That didn't work , it did turn over but not start.
It wasn't till the new battery came in and I fully charged it that the bike started right up..
I do find it odd that if I was ever in need of a jump the battery giving me a jump would have to have a good size battery, maybe I should of tried a car ???
Anyway the bike should be good for a while the old battery lasted over 60K miles ( I had a concours oem battery last over a 100K)
Thanks for all the feedback , felt at least I could do was report back. Thanks
 
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