Which long life Suzuki Coolant for 2011 650 Vstrom??

4424 Views 43 Replies 16 Participants Last post by Hans471, 5 mo ago

Solarguy

Discussion Starter · 5 mo ago

I ran down a bunch of coolant threads and never found a solid recommendation for which long life suzuki coolant is preferred.

I will change it ~every 2 or 3 years if that matters. I do a good flush with R/O water if that matters. The stuff that's in there now is definitely blue.

Also, how reliable is the voltage test to determine if your antifreeze, and specifically your anti-corrosion package is still healthy?
Same thing with pH tests. Useful? Not useful??

IAT, Inorganic Acid Technology. This is the old school fluorescent green or yellow antifreeze. Does not have a long service life. Not great protection for high aluminum engines (aka motorcycles)

OAT, Organic Acid Inhibitor, better for aluminum rich engines. Not a super long service life unless they put a generous additive package in it.

HOAT, Hybrid Organic Acid Inhibitor (sometimes described as the best of both worlds.)

Anti-corrosion additives, none of these are bad necessarily, but some do not play well with others. Asian manufacturers generally avoid silicates and they think it's bad for

borates, nitrites, phosphates, silicates

Asian OEM generally don't like or use silicates because they feel it does not play well with the water pump seals that are in general use.

this is where most of this information came from:

gmb.net

Inorganic vs Organic Coolant - What's The Difference? | GMB Blog

What's The Difference Between Inorganic And Organic Coolants? Find Out Here.

gmb.net

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/ph-and-voltage-testing-coolant-reliable.310281/

Maybe we need a stickied be all/end all coolant discussion.

thanks

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STCorndog

· #2 · 5 mo ago

Non silicate, extended life coolant.

I test mine with a voltage-meter every year. I start testing the day I replace it. That way I know the base reading and can watch the trend. It’s easy to see when the coolant has lost corrosion inhibitor content. I do this on all my liquid cooled engines. Screw the preconceived recommendations from the anti freeze suppliers.

pH meters work well if you have one. I have access to a good one at work. It matches well with voltage readings.

Reactions: 2

Solarguy

Discussion Starter · #3 · 5 mo ago

You would have no strong (or weak) preference for Suzuki (motorcycle) brand?

Any difference between stuff that is approved for Suzuki automobiles, vs stuff approved for Suzuki motorcycles?

Example, Peak brand Antifreeze for Asian vehicles. Contains phosphate and OAT corrosion inhibitors, but does Not contain:

borate
nitrate
silicate
amines (this is only found in old school green stuff, wrong pH)

This product is available in pink, green, blue and red. Green is approved for Suzuki (cars) prior to 2010.
Blue is approved for Suzuki (cars) 2011 and later. But never a mention about motorcycles.

Cost is not a big deal either way, but the automotive stuff is half the money. I think you can also buy the concentrate for $24 (1 gallon) or the pre-mix ($20, 1 gallon.)

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STCorndog

· #4 · 5 mo ago

@Solarguy I assume your asking me?

My strom always used Honda Type II automotive antifreeze. It has been on the market for a long time and is clearly marked non-silicate. I used to get it straight, now a 50/50 premix is all that is available. $25/gallon. I use it in my ATV, tractor and my strom.

In all my Toyotas, I use Toyota long life red. It is basically the same stuff and also clearly marked silicate free.

I’m sure other stuff will work, but I know what I use works and it lasts 5 years easy. I use auto coolant in my motorcycle because I have it in my shop already.

The cooling properties of antifreeze never go away, only the corrosion inhibitors. I also use only distilled water to mix with antifreeze and to flush the cooling system.

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dravnx

· #5 · 5 mo ago

Any non silicate, aluminum engine anti freeze will work. You're completely over thinking this. Change the fluid every couple of years. Its a low horse power, well made, bullet proof engine that will run many thousands of miles, It's not a high strung, high horse power engine operating at the limites of its technology.
Ride more, worry less.

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TinMan88

· #6 · 5 mo ago

Suzuki long life product is blue. Buy a couple quarts and be done with iIf you are going to be anal about it, you must use de-ionized H20 to mix with. Description here:

www.laballey.com

Deionized Water Lab Grade

Where To Buy Deionized Water: LabAlley.com | 33 oz Bottle | 1 Gallon | Bulk Prices | 5 Gallon | 55 Gallon Drum | Type II Lab Grade For Sale Online | Delivered UPS | Deionized Water Supplier | DI Water & Demineralized Water For Sale Online | For CPAP Machines, Topping Up Batteries, Cleaning, Car...

www.laballey.com

www.laballey.com

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Philbytx

· #7 · 5 mo ago

Just bought the Suzuki M/C LL AF and a gallon of distilled water and will flush/change mine in early spring.

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Solarguy

Discussion Starter · #8 · 5 mo ago

I have already decided to use the factory product. But my goal was to take the mystery out so people could use another product with confidence......or not if that is a demonstrably bad idea. Although it would be convenient to have one product that I could use in the Suzuki, the Toyota, the Mazda and the Chinese diesel tractor. Hope springs eternal.

There are a couple of standards that could make this a definitive thread, but I haven't found any documentation from Suzuki that explicitly states that if you use antifreeze that meets xyz standard, then you're good!

The aftermarket products for asian engines often list the following standards: JAPANESE STANDARD JASO M325, SAE J1034, JAPANESE STANDARD JIS K2234

Hans471

· #9 · 5 mo ago

As has been pointed out by others:

Voltage test tells you if the acidity is off. (acid + dissimilar metals = voltage production). Its a good test.
If you want to keep it simple just buy the Suzuki branded antifreeze and be done with the concerns of what is the "best" antifreeze.
Antifreeze doesn't "wear out" but the additives do.
Use distilled water.....its less than a buck a gallon and it doesn't have minerals in it that can cause issues.

My two cents based on years of experience in the industry:
Worse thing for antifreeze and the coolant is oxygen. Main way oxygen gets into your system is the radiator cap leaking. If you don't have a proper tester for that cap change it when you change your coolant, especially if you are getting higher than expected voltage readings. ( .4V is the MAX you should ever see on good coolant).

Change fluids BEFORE they go bad. Once you get corrosion in the system its hard to get rid of. Think of getting a scratch on your car and then rust gets under the paint. Once that rust starts its hard to get rid of as it spreads. One of the properties of good coolant is that it coats the metal surfaces inside the cooling system. Its good if the replacement antifreeze has the same additives as the original.

Antifreeze needs to be compatible with every part it touches inside the engine. Remember there are rubber seals and gaskets in your engine. I have seen seals and gaskets that have been eaten away by using the wrong antifreeze. I have read of people (like owners of Honda Gold Wings) that have the seals go out of the water pumps after changing to a non Honda antifreeze. This is why you see so many different antifreeze's, its all about the additives.

There is a wealth of information out there if you take the time to look. There as many choices in antifreeze out there. To keep it simple just go with the one recommended by the manufacturer, its cheap insurance. And....replace those radiator caps! When you change coolant make sure to get ALL the air out of the system.

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jettawreck

· #10 · 5 mo ago

Nothing really special about Honda, Suzuki, Toyota, etc factory coolants other than they are generally high quality, different colored and more expensive. Any silicate free long life coolant is fine if changed anywhere near the recommended interval. Generic green conventional silicate free engine coolant is available at the local Fleet store for $8/gallon undiluted. Works in my Wing, V-Strom, tractor, ATV, snowmobiles, etc that all simply specify silicate free and all came with conventional silicate free green colored coolant as factory filled.
Just refrain from mixing types/colors and/or "universal" mix with everything because if you read the fine print, they usually don't really mix "universally"- nor should they be used as such.
If/when switching types/colors (since there are many flavors of silicate free coolant which by themselves are fine) do a flush, rinse and refill. Then stay with that type.

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Solarguy

Discussion Starter · #11 · 5 mo ago

Double emphasis on avoiding tap water for cooling systems or batteries. I have had an RO/DI filter or filters for decades for other reasons (I used to breed angelfish for pocket money in college) and it's great for flushing rads, diluting antifreeze, steam engines, etc etc etc.

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StretchNM

· #12 · 5 mo ago

Suzuki recommends using Long Life or Super Long Life coolant. It's main general properties (that I could find) are that it is ethylene glycol based and silicate free. While there may be many others, these all offer the same properties: Ecstar, Honda Type 2, Prestone 50/50 (yellow jug), Peak 50/50 Long Life.

Some others are propylene-glycol based and silicate free. Propylene-glycol based coolants are reportedly less toxic. Do these properties matter in the Vstrom engine? I don't know. I know only what Suzuki says is in their recommended coolant's properties.

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Solo

· #13 · 5 mo ago

Honda.

TinMan88

· #14 · 5 mo ago

Solarguy said:
Double emphasis on avoiding tap water for cooling systems or batteries. I have had an RO/DI filter or filters for decades for other reasons (I used to breed angelfish for pocket money in college) and it's great for flushing rads, diluting antifreeze, steam engines, etc etc etc.

Look. When a bunch of guys all go out looking for how many ways they can do it differently, the manufacturer gets a headache. They offer pre-packaged, pre approved products to keep effed up vehicles off their doorstep. Ducati went so far as saying clearly "we don't trust you, it's more trouble than it's worth". and directed all service to be done at their organization. A clear advantage goes to pre-mixed product. In my opinion that eliminates degradation from 'other ingredients'. Pre mixed should be made with de-ionized water, as sold. One would think that the color of product designate its peculiar make-up, but then there is branding. Dex-cool is orange-ish. Toyota is red=ish. "asian" is pink-ish. Well f#@% me! Give us a chance to succeed, pleez? Here is a tutorial that may shed light on the quandry:

The Different Colors of Coolant and their significance

Changing your coolant is one of the easiest tasks. But do you know what color your radiator runs on and why? Learn more today...

fuelandfriction.com

fuelandfriction.com

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Motorpsychology

· #15 · 5 mo ago

This is the first I heard of testing the coolant voltage. It's a Suzuki; I buy Suzuki Long Life premix blue coolant. I assume they used distilled water at the chemical plant.
Never mix colors of antifreeze. They can become a strange concoction that can cause damage to everything it is in contact with. I just changed coolant & thermostat on this bike last year (4yrs 27,912 mi). 2qt fills it and the overflow to above the add line. It looked like the brand new stuff; clear, same color but I changed it and the thermostat, anyway.

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STCorndog

· #16 · 5 mo ago

Motorpsychology said:
This is the first I heard of testing the coolant voltage. It's a Suzuki; I buy Suzuki Long Life premix blue coolant. I assume they used distilled water at the chemical plant.
Never mix colors of antifreeze. They can become a strange concoction that can cause damage to everything it is in contact with. I just changed coolant & thermostat on this bike last year (4yrs 27,912 mi). 2qt fills it and the overflow to above the add line. It looked like the brand new stuff; clear, same color but I changed it and the thermostat, anyway.

It’s a simple test. All it takes is a volt meter.

have ignition off and key out
put 1 lead on the battery ground
put other lead inside radiator neck, touching coolant, but not any metal
take voltage reading to at least two decimal places. You want voltage value below 0.30 volts. Don’t worry about positive or negative sign, which changes if you reverse the leads.

Make sense? There are YouTube videos how to do it but several are doing it wrong and/or use too high of an acceptable reading.

Also, I check and record a baseline voltage reading a few days after doing a coolant change. That way I see when my voltage starts to increase.

Read up on it. It’s a valid test I have been doing for 20 years now.

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dravnx

· #17 · 5 mo ago

Distilled water works great, has had the minerals removed and is recommended by the antifreeze man'f. De-ionized water is not as easy to find and does not have any advantages over distilled water.

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Cryoman

· #18 · 5 mo ago

Do not ever use DI water in coolant. It is very corrosive. If you are going to mix your own 50/50, only use distilled water.

I like the convenience of premix and use the very economical Zerex Asian Vehicle 50/50 Blue Formula.

Motorpsychology

· #19 · 5 mo ago

STCorndog said:
It’s a simple test. All it takes is a volt meter.

have ignition off and key out

put 1 lead on the battery ground

put other lead inside radiator neck, touching coolant, but not any metal

take voltage reading to at least two decimal places. You want voltage value below 0.30 volts. Don’t worry about positive or negative sign, which changes if you reverse the leads.

Make sense? There are YouTube videos how to do it but several are doing it wrong and/or use too high of an acceptable reading.

Also, I check and record a baseline voltage reading a few days after doing a coolant change. That way I see when my voltage starts to increase.

Read up on it. It’s a valid test I have been doing for 20 years now.

Makes sense, ST, and another post related what causes voltage to be present. I had just never heard of it. I'll probably check mine the next time I have the tank off, but unless it's higher than the battery voltage, I'll not change it for another three years. I'm trusting the coolant is designed to perform within its limits for the 4yr/29Mmi/48Mkm schedule period.

STCorndog

· #20 · 5 mo ago

@Motorpsychology
Try it on your car for practice. I check the car, tractor, SUV and my ATV. I have never yet had any coolant not last 4 years.

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